ATSF Detail Parts

[nscaler711]

So In my ever expanding ATSF fleet, I am also slowly trying to add details that are not commercially produced, so I am literally throwing things together and sometimes it drives me nuts.
Right now it is these Covers above the Air Intakes. I do not know what they are called, and I am having a hell of a time making them out of styrene. The blasted intakes stick so far out its not giving me any room to attach it to the roof. I really don't want to file parts of the body down if I don't have too. I am considering brass, but like aluminum brass oxidizes fast and I cant seem to get paint, even etching automotive primers to stick.

https://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=5542724
https://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=5542702

I'm sure you can tell where I'm going with this. On my to do list is renumbering and updating the Atlas SD45s to SD45u's externally at least. I am unsure if I will ever move headlights to the nose as that requires entire repaints. I'm not willing to go that far.
As such these were also put on other units like the GP30s and SD40s.

I still need to figure out exhaust lifters, and find out who still has BLMA Vapor style AC Units... and Antenna stands...
I have no room for a 3d printer either, nor the skills required for designing... I'll pick and chose my battles, 3d CAD and photoshop aren't ones I'm fighting anymore.
I appreciate the help if you know where to find these or know how to print them.

[Olivani]

They are called snow shields, external panels added to the air intakes of EMD SD40/45 locomotives, especially common on Canadian railroads like CN and CP, to block blowing snow from entering the engine and equipment.

[nscaler711]

They are called snow shields, external panels added to the air intakes of EMD SD40/45 locomotives, especially common on Canadian railroads like CN and CP, to block blowing snow from entering the engine and equipment.

I knew they had something to do with snow, I just could not for the life of me remember their name. So thank you for that. I think in Canada's case they're used for really fine snow. but for the ATSF I thought I had read somewhere they were using them due to sand/dust that kicks up in the desert.

[chessie system fan]

I want to say someone made snow shields way back when.  JnJ? Details Associates?

If you can't find that, the second easiest option is cutting up a spare cab.

[Ike the BN Freak]

I want to say someone made snow shields way back when.  JnJ? Details Associates?

If you can't find that, the second easiest option is cutting up a spare cab.

Sunrise and Miniatures by Eric both made them, I feel the Sunrise ones were nicer

[peteski]

Not sure why you have such problem with painting brass. If cleaned, you shoudl have no problem with paint adherence. Etchign them with vinegar shoudl also make thigns easier. YOu also have to make sure the metal is clean and totally grease/oil free.  Acetone, naphtha or lacquer thinner are excellent degreasers.

I have successfully painted brass, from entire brass models to thin sheet metal brass items using any standard primer and then the color coat.

[nscaler711]

Not sure why you have such problem with painting brass. If cleaned, you shoudl have no problem with paint adherence. Etchign them with vinegar shoudl also make thigns easier. YOu also have to make sure the metal is clean and totally grease/oil free.  Acetone, naphtha or lacquer thinner are excellent degreasers.

I have successfully painted brass, from entire brass models to thin sheet metal brass items using any standard primer and then the color coat.

Honestly I'm not sure. Maybe it's the environment I'm in, it maybe more humid than I realize and it just seems to oxidize fast. When I do paint smaller pieces I tend to glue things to the side that I don't paint so I have something to hold onto. But for the things I have painted, it doesn't take much of an impact to chip the paint. Could also be that I'm using 90% Isopropyl alcohol to clean the brass too.
I have completely stopped cleaning track with the stuff as it leaves a noticeable film on the rails...
I do have plenty of brake clean around though... Maybe I could use that? 

[kiwi_al]

Have you seen this?  https://www.trains.com/mrr/how-to/nscale-insight/n-scale-insight-thoughts-on-detailing-n-scale-diesels/
Not helpful if you want to buy detail parts but if you want to roll your own it might be helpful.

[nscaler711]

Have you seen this?  https://www.trains.com/mrr/how-to/nscale-insight/n-scale-insight-thoughts-on-detailing-n-scale-diesels/
Not helpful if you want to buy detail parts but if you want to roll your own it might be helpful.

I have actually. Jim Kelly is the one that really sent me into overdrive for just modeling the Santa Fe. I was a bit young when they merged with BN, but I still remember seeing all those blue and yellow freight bonnets and superfleet (warbonnet) engines well into the 2000s. But all the added details from the post rebuild years up to the (bitter) end is where I want to be.
I've got 49 on my roster currently and continually adding more. So I'm falling behind in the detail department.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

At one point, Kato had AC units and antenna/strobe stands as parts available from their SD40-2 and F40PH. Looking at their parts catalog, they only have the newer RV style AC available.

Atlas also had AC units available from their SD26, but this is also sold out.

For painting brass, try using aircraft stripper. It is NASTY stuff, but will etch the metal well and promote adhesion. After the item is primed and painted, use a hair dryer on medium heat to cure the paint. This has helped me a lot in the past.

I might actually have all these parts in my stash. I had virtually the entire Sunrise catalog in private stock for years. PM me what you need and I can take a look.

[peteski]

Honestly I'm not sure. Maybe it's the environment I'm in, it maybe more humid than I realize and it just seems to oxidize fast. When I do paint smaller pieces I tend to glue things to the side that I don't paint so I have something to hold onto. But for the things I have painted, it doesn't take much of an impact to chip the paint. Could also be that I'm using 90% Isopropyl alcohol to clean the brass too.
I have completely stopped cleaning track with the stuff as it leaves a noticeable film on the rails...

Yes, I would use something stronger than 91% IPA. Stuff I recommended earlier.  Also another  important question is what brands you use for paint and primer? Of course brass items should not be oxidized either.

Also, maybe your expectations as far as the paint resistance to chipping are a bit high.  Paint will chip from brass if something hard hits it. But you shoudl nto be abel to for example scratch paint off easily with your fingernail.

Not sure what to tell you about film on the rails.  But if you mean that you see faint dark residue of a piece of paper or cloth you rubbing the rails with, I don't have any scientific proof, but I think it what you see is residue of the metal abraded by the slightly abrasive paper or cloth.

[nscaler711]

@peteski for almost anything aluminum or brass I normally use Rustoleum Self Etching Primer and use various paints, like True Color, Polly Scale, Vallejo or just Testors. Granted I'm not painting entire shells, small details like sun shades, horns or the antenna stands. it doesn't take much of an impact to chip the paint. something like the locomotive rolling is enough.
As far as the residue IPA leaves its colorless, but the tops of the rails don't have a sheen to them afterwards. It could be due to the bitterant used or the fact it is a polar molecule which would attract particles. For that reason I have switched to CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. I doesn't appear to leave a residue, and I haven't cleaned my track in months. I Have also used NO-OX ID a Special, and let me tell you, I have ever only had to wipe down the rails with a polishing cloth on the Z scale track. As far as wiping rails down, it has always ever been paper towels, or jewelers polishing cloths. So nothing ever abrasive.

@daniel_leavitt2000
I do periodically check Atlas's and Kato's parts for AC units. Kato has about the closest AC units I need while Atlas uses the Prime style of AC Units which is a pretty noticeable difference between the Dayton Phoenix or the Vapor Style the ATSF used. Obviously BLMA had the best ones, but almost every time I look at Atlas's website, they say preorder. Or ebay people think its Gold...

I don't know what part numbers Sunrise used for the snow shields as I cant find a catalog of sorts, I hear the owner passed around 2017? and Eric was 2024 both of which is pretty unfortunate.
I never thought to heat up the items to "bake" the paint on even though that's pretty common thing to do. 

 

[Spades]

I want to say someone made snow shields way back when.  JnJ? Details Associates?

If you can't find that, the second easiest option is cutting up a spare cab.

N Scale of Nevada in their Dandi Detail kits had one for the Kato GP38-2 with SP specific details. It included the icicle breaker, snow shields, plow, antennae plate , ac unit and complete SP light packages.  If I could resurrect one N scale product it would be the NSN Dandi Diesel kits.

[peteski]

Actually paper towels are slightly abrasive. So are polishing cloths (polishing removes minuscule amount of material being polished). That's how they can turn dull surface into shiny surface.

When the paint chips, if it exposes bare  metal then the primer is the weak link.  Also "self etching" primer still requires the  metal to be completely clean of any contaminants or oxidation.  I usually don't use self etching primer - just a plain primer. I have not done much painting lately, but I have been using Tamiya Fine primers. In the past I've used the primer sold under AccuPaint (discontinued) name. When I do use a self etching primer I use the SEM brand. Rustoleum  paints (like someone on the Model Car Forum called it)  is for spray-painting lawn furniture, not for miniature models.    Joking or not, I don't use it.

I don't know what the 9% is in the 91% IPA from grocery stores and pharmacies.  I use IPA99 (aka Isopropanol) from the paint thinners isle in a hardware store.  I buy it in gallon size containers. It is 99% IPA and should leave no residue (the 1% is probably water).

[Mark5]

Actually paper towels are slightly abrasive.

True, I learned this the hard way when I got my first pair of glasses (long time ago) - I used paper towels to dry the lenses. Eventually, my lenses had a million tiny scratches.  Needless to say, I stopped using paper towels for this.