What's inside those Power "Bricks?"

[$2 Bill]

I'll start with a Very Old unit likely Built around 1950's way before Silicon Diodes...
Superior Power Pack Model 995. Also made a Single "Tank" unit Model 695.
There is No Data about the units or company except some Ebay and related listings.

The large tank had a Mobil logo decal but missing on mine.
1 & 2 are external views. (Control Levers are missing the plastic "Knobs.")
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3 Shows all Major parts.
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4 & 5 shows the Metal Rectifier and some issues with "Vintage" Power units. Green "Wire Rot" happens because of Acid in the Vinyl insulation. (This is a common problem to most ~ 1950's electric including home 120/240VAC cables worldwide.)
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6 is a Generic Schematic of the Unit. The Center Tap Transformer is a Common way to get Full Wave Rectification with only 2 "Diodes."
Note: There is No Fuse or Breaker even tho it Passes UL testing when built. The Non-polar Plug is Direct Wired to the 120VAC side of the Center Tap Transformer.
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⚠️If you find this or related units, Do Not even Test Them before taking apart and inspect them. Metal Rectifiers can have Selenium and other compounds and if/when they Fry can cause Health Problems plus it Stinks. Worse then modern electronics. Testing them should be done Outside with plenty of air moving. I have this only as a wall ornament, Not to use.

[$2 Bill]

Here's a bit later Tyco metal "Brick" model 899T.
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Notice the 120V Plug is small? Is because made for 1950's to the 60's.

Taking the Top off...
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Good construction but still No Fuse I can find. That Square Panel? I believe is a Phenolic "Plastic" layer between the parts and the Top to prevent shorting. Plenolic are often Paper embedded in Resin.

The "Diodes..."
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I had to de-solder the the "Diode Pack" to flip the Speed Assembly...
Since made before Silicone Diodes has the Metal Rectifiers but are made way better then above. Test it Outside but is likely "safe" to use with older DC trains.

Schematic is the same using Center Tap Transformer.

⚠️Note that nearly All Controllers, not just DC units shown here, have 120/240VAC Live All The Time. You should use a "Power Bar" with a Switch to easily Shut Off Main Power when not in use. Power Bars having any Surge Protection is Good but "Best" is Tripplite Isobar Ultra and related that blocks E-noise in or out on Main Power as well.

[peteski]

Seems like you enjoy describing ancient model RR power packs. I doubt many modelers nowadays are even attempting to use those, them but better safe than sorry.

Looking at the wirewound rheostat in the Tyco unit I doubt it would give any slow speed control in any N scale loco (especially those with coreless motors).  It would probably work with some old H0 scale loco with a high-current motor.

[nickelplate759]

I have no use at all for this information, but I find it fascinating and am really happy that you are sharing it!

Thanks @$2 Bill

[$2 Bill]

The Reason is All in this tread are still sold on Ebay et al or Flea Markets, Yard Sales, etc. I see people buying more old units then most anyone here thinks. Isn't just old Lionel AC units and other models that are Snapped up every week just at 1 Flea Market near me.

I'll get to "Newer" to "Current" packs later including some MRC models. I have several "Generations" and will post "In Order" like I'm editing Pictures of Circa 1970's Tyco 899BP so compare to 899T above. Some units are sold as N and HO packs including the Cheapest units made by Bachmann and others.

Most are taken apart then "Trash" as not fixing dead units or even re-riveting cases and such bother. I store them only because may need to look to find some details later.
Some are Good but easy to remove screws etc and works after like some Transistor(MOSFET) Control units.

Main reason I don't have allot more is Too Much Money. Some Sellers think Old = Gold. Not. I didn't pay > $5 each even for the newer units. Many are < $5 to Free.

[Mark5]

Of interest to me as as still have my Lionel crap from when I was a kid, along with that very same Tyco "brick" above that I received as a part of a train set one Christmas in the late 1960s. 

I still use the Tyco brick, not really for model rr purposes - more as a handy 12V supply for testing automotive light bulbs, etc.

[$2 Bill]

I still use the Tyco brick, not really for model rr purposes - more as a handy 12V supply for testing automotive light bulbs, etc.

Careful when doing that, the Rheostat or Transistor can get "Red Hot" fast, Trip a breaker to Fry completely. Many Standard or Halogen automotive lamps pulls more current then most Bricks can handle. Just 1156 or 1157 on bright filament pulls 2A. One YT channel "test" of Tech2 1400 with likely 55watt Halogen from Headlight or Fog assembly then wonder why the box kept shutting down...

[nkalanaga]

I used to have one of those Tyco packs.  It's probably still in the old (abandoned) house somewhere...

I currently have a 1960s Lionel HO pack powering my Troller Autoplse, which takes AC input.  Works fine for that, and, yes, it's connected through a power strip with breaker and switch.  I use the variable DC for testing locos and cleaning wheels, so speed control isn't an issue.

[learmoia]

Hey now..

I've got a Bachmann 44207 Power Pack on my layout.. 

It powers my Bachmann 46709 N Freight Station w/Steam Whistle... 

And when I find a Bachmann 46708 N Oil Tank Kit With Diesel Horn... it'll power that too

~Ian

[$2 Bill]

I've got a Bachmann 44207 Power Pack on my layout.. 

That, 6607, 6605, Life Like 583405 (Several versions with same # but have minor cosmetic changes.), AHM 70210 and others N/HO bricks that use 1 "Knob" only have the same guts and will be shown here soon. (Is a Life Like clone because easily taken apart without major damage.)

⚠️ Never allow those to have 120v when not actually used. More so then other Bricks. You'll see why when I post that.

[$2 Bill]

Before the thread "Breaks" into pages... Here Tyco 899BP to compare to older 899T.

899BP is a Major upgrade to 899T above. Believe came out in later 1970's...
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At first look you likely notice the 120VAC Plug is different...
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Many things of this era started to have a "Safety Plug" so Kids and more can handle it safer with less risk of getting shocked. Unlike many, the Case is way harder to remove the cover with more bent taps but depress the bottom where are bent into as well.
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Finally Taking the cover off...
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Construction is ok. The Square panel is just compress paper product, maybe fire resistance type. The rheostat Nichrome is a bit lose and think came that way.
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Flip the controller and find a Full Wave Silicone "Can" tied to the AC terminals then to a very simple transformer.
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But hiding under some tape and plastic is a Thermal Breaker ESB701AJ3BK protecting the unit from a short on either outputs. As many others the Fuse/Breaker is on Low Side of the unit. Main Power is direct wired to the transformer as this is Common even Now for North America markets. Note: Sylvaina/GTE made those breakers. Often many PN are custom jobs and can't find actual data other then Sylvaina catalog with basic info.
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[$2 Bill]

Next is the last of Tyco Bricks I have right now, believe the Model 895 is 70's to early 80's...

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While many claim USA makes the Best Stuff, This Is Not that. First 2 Hong Kong Tyco units are better. IOW This is Very Cheap to make without other issues to make or sell.

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While it does have a Safety Plug, Not only the Upper case is Plastic but just Snaps On or Off very easily. The Speed "knob" snaps into the "Copper" spring to connect the Nichrome to another piece of metal. They "moved back" to where can't find a Fuse if there is one.

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They Did use Silicone Diodes but uses the Center Tap Transformer same as others and again saw no fuse or breaker.

But to Top it off, the Direction "Switch" is just plastic moving stamped "Copper" pieces next to the transformer. (Likely Copper coated Steel.)
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The Screw Terminals are the Contacts for the Direction "Switch."
The Black Wire is always connected to the Back Copper while the Yellow Wire from the Nichrome is connected to the Front Copper.
The plastic moves the coppers to connect them to the Train Terminals for whatever Direction.

If lived in dirty or high moisture environment then this unit will hate you. Just Using this can have issues because is made so cheap.

Note: All AC Terminals only connect to 1/2 of low side coil of a Center Tap Transformers like the First Schematic above. Other 1/2 is just other half wave for the trains. It's not just this or the "Tank" unit that does that "trick."

[$2 Bill]

This week we'll go to the "Aftermarket" that Bricks didn't come with a Train Set... Here's a "Quality" MRC product Railine 300 made in 1970's and maybe later. USA made too but Cheap or worse then Tyco 895.
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(These views are Ebay listed to show a "New" part. The rest are mine.)
Edit--> There are "two" versions of this, 300 is HO gauge, 300N is N gauge, but both have same specs. Below is 300 HO unit if by some fluke something is different.

This "Upgrade" Brick has a Plastic case with 4 rivets at the corners plus 2 "Welds" in the middle of the bottom. (2 smaller melted areas.) MRC used same method to anchor the pivot of RV1 and the ends of the Nichrome. To make it even cheaper SW2 is the Black Ramp to lift the "Copper' wiper off the Nichrome at 0 speed.
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Not only is it very cheaply made as Manufacturing goes, I had a Defective unit as:
1. BR1 & the Green wire hung up moving the RV1 Level.
2. SW2 Ramp was too low to lift the "Copper" so I Glued some extra plastic on the bottom of the Ramp.
3. I think the White Wire is connected wrong. Seems should be connected to the Transformer end of BR2.

Schematic is Factory wiring with added a 100uF cap just to kill E-noise.
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Direction Switch SW1 is also Welded to the case and didn't unsolder the board because still works and buried in storage again. The Diodes maybe 1N539x 1.5a as about same size case as 1N400x. 1N540x 3a has a larger case and used on some other Bricks.

This is another Reason why I don't Trust MRC claim they make "Quality" Products besides claiming UL = Quality in DCC Trains vs DC Power Packs. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=59608.msg822492

I use Wire Ties to hold the case shut since repairing it in case I need to pull case apart again. That didn't have more rivets and Bolts might work but bigger etc where the rivets was.

Why didn't you Return it to the store or use MRC Warranty back then?
Because when you live in the "Sticks" in 70's it meant driving more Hours and dealing with the store or dealing with phone calls then packaging and paying USPS to ship a < $15 product and that's 70's Dollars. Sending via UPS etc at that time wasn't easy either. Ignoring shipping delay mean days to week or more to and from.

Why called them all "Bricks?"
Because Most to All so far in this Thread are Never made to be service by anyone. Very Likely This Brick is the same even when you send it to MRC under Warranty and replacement can have same or worse problems...
Other Power Packs including High $ units often will claim "No Serviceable Parts Inside" on them or in whatever doc's for them even if have normal screws etc to take them apart. In the US and some other Counties, the Warranty is Not Void when you wreck some sticker or remove Security Screws. But if "Sealed" as this unit is made, or like Ryobi Batteries, you often damage the case or seal and that Voids the Warranty. Related Issue: Opening/Repairing X thing may Void UL and other Safety Certs. Repairing above Bricks is "Safer" and most won't care VS. If you "Repair" tool and related battery pack then cause a fire, good luck dealing with Insurance Co's, Fire Marshal office, etc. after a Lithium Battery Fire...

[peteski]

To be honest Two-dollar-bill, before you mentioned I never hear these older model train "throttles" or "power packs" called "bricks". Maybe it is a regional thing?

Also, what is "E-noise"?

[nkalanaga]

"Brick" is more of an electrical/electronics term than model railroad.  As he said, a "brick" is usually something designed not to be opened, just use it.  Another use is to say something, such as a mobile phone, is "bricked", meaning it no longer functions, and is usable only as a dead mass - a brick.