Author Topic: 3D printed turnouts  (Read 3552 times)

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Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #30 on: April 14, 2025, 06:02:27 PM »
0
This is the one that is printing now:
https://www.printables.com/model/1265392-nn3-turnout

Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #31 on: April 14, 2025, 08:23:56 PM »
+10
Success!  First I used my thicker glasses (I think x5?)   8)  and no files. I scraped the solder with a chisel Exacto blade. The flanges are more like ~.027", but it doesn't mater because sloppy Z scale crap goes through it just fine.



Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #32 on: April 14, 2025, 09:39:52 PM »
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I removed the turnout from the supports and cut the frog gaps. It is a little bit flimsy in hand, but I think it will be fine when glued down.

Lemosteam

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #33 on: April 15, 2025, 06:59:23 AM »
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AAAAAAnd now you have to redo it because your code 40 rail is on its way. :trollface: :trollface:

Looks good- pics of the removed supports underside?

I have this nice little cheap 4"x33" tabletop belt sander that makes quick work of smoothing intended planar surfaces flat.  I had my brother print an FDM vacuum adapter for the dust and added a phenolic plate to the fence to rest against while sanding.
John "Lemosteam" LeMerise

Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #34 on: April 15, 2025, 04:53:59 PM »
+2
I just lightly filed the bottom to smooth out the dimples. Don't want to change the height of the ties because that is what will keep all my track level.



And this c40 rail is old Rail Craft from the DKS collection. So new rail might be slightly different.

garethashenden

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #35 on: April 15, 2025, 08:18:51 PM »
+1
If you make the frog as a unit off the turnout you can just drop it into your original design. The V and the two wing rails, everything inside the gaps, that's the unit you need to make. Assemble it on some brass shim stock so that it can all be soldered firmly. Then all you need to do is add the plain rails.

vermonter_railfan

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #36 on: April 15, 2025, 10:39:40 PM »
+1
Figured I'd post a photo since I tested printed a pair this morning.



Arizona & California RR and Vermont Railway in Free-moN
http://free-mon.net/

Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #37 on: April 15, 2025, 10:44:10 PM »
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Does your rail fit in it?

Also you can use Netfabb to mirror it for a right hand.

vermonter_railfan

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #38 on: April 16, 2025, 09:45:05 AM »
+1
Does your rail fit in it?

Also you can use Netfabb to mirror it for a right hand.

The weathered ME C40 that I have fits well in it. Definitely nice and snug






Arizona & California RR and Vermont Railway in Free-moN
http://free-mon.net/

ednadolski

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #39 on: April 16, 2025, 10:06:58 AM »
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I my have missed it but -- what angle is that turnout?   Have you tried a #6 or longer?

Ed

vermonter_railfan

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #40 on: April 16, 2025, 10:20:28 AM »
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I my have missed it but -- what angle is that turnout?   Have you tried a #6 or longer?

Ed

I was actually kinda wondering the same thing, printed it without even knowing
Arizona & California RR and Vermont Railway in Free-moN
http://free-mon.net/

Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #41 on: April 16, 2025, 11:59:28 AM »
+2
It's a number 4 based off of FT template.

vermonter_railfan

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #42 on: April 16, 2025, 12:48:05 PM »
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It's a number 4 based off of FT template.

Seeing how so far this has been successful, any thoughts about doing some larger turnouts?
Arizona & California RR and Vermont Railway in Free-moN
http://free-mon.net/

Chris333

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #43 on: April 16, 2025, 02:02:31 PM »
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LOL. Nope, because I don't need them.

carlso

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Re: 3D printed turnouts
« Reply #44 on: April 16, 2025, 02:54:18 PM »
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Chriss,

This note is in no way a criticism of your work. I am in awe of what you and others do on TRW. However, I have a question.
 In your post #31 & 34 the lower point does not appear to be nesting inside the groove where it should be. I am assuming that it has not been  pushed in as it should be ?

Regards,
Carl
Carl Sowell
El Paso, Texas