3D printed turnouts

[Chris333]

Has anyone done this? The idea is to file and notch the rails and slide them into 3D printed turnout tie strips. Just wondering what was done in the frog area? Did you sneak in a few copper ties?



The guard rails would just glue in place. The points would be hinged and there are notches for their joiners.

Any thing else I should think about before I start wasting C40 rail?

[Scottl]

I'm pretty convinced soldering to copper ties is not necessary.  I built a few turnouts (On30) years back with just track spikes into the wooden ties.  I soldered the frog rails together but the frog was secured to wooden ties with spikes.  I attached the points to the throw bar with spikes soldered to the point.  It all holds together solidly. 

On a printed strip, you could selectively add some more spike supports to the drawing to firm the frog up, IMO.

[Chris333]

On a printed strip, you could selectively add some more spike supports to the drawing to firm the frog up, IMO.

But how would I slide the short pieces of rail into the strip with more "spikes".

I've made HO turnouts with spikes, but back then I filled the frog with solder and hack sawed the flanges. I guess on these I would need to do something to join all the frog electrically.

[dem34]

Has anyone done this? The idea is to file and notch the rails and slide them into 3D printed turnout tie strips. Just wondering what was done in the frog area? Did you sneak in a few copper ties?

The guard rails would just glue in place. The points would be hinged and there are notches for their joiners.

Any thing else I should think about before I start wasting C40 rail?

This guy has done this in HO with Code 100 rail.

Think you should be good to go as long as you are using an ABS like Resin. Shocked by how much nicer that stuff is compared to the old resins I worked with in the past in terms of durability.

[rodsup9000]

 Make the frog off the tie strip and then add it after it's made.

[Chris333]

Make the frog off the tie strip and then add it after it's made.

So glue it in place?

[vermonter_railfan]

I don't think you'd necessarily need to have any PC ties as long as the clips that hold the track in place are not brittle. But at the same time, having some PC ties to help with transfer of power would be a good idea with smaller scales, especially for the frog.

[Chris333]

Funny I've been staring at this thing printed out on my desk, but it wasn't till I looked at the photo I posted above, a problem.



All the rails fit and gauge is good.

But these 2 red rails is what will not be able to slide into the spikes:


The black marker is just me thinking about here to put PC ties.

[Chris333]

This guy has done this in HO with Code 100 rail.

Think you should be good to go as long as you are using an ABS like Resin. Shocked by how much nicer that stuff is compared to the old resins I worked with in the past in terms of durability.

That guy doesn't have spikes to hold the rail. The rail just sits down into a groove and the whole thing must need to be glued.

My spikes hold the rail. The rail needs to be slid in from the end.

[vermonter_railfan]

Funny I've been staring at this thing printed out on my desk, but it wasn't till I looked at the photo I posted above, a problem.



All the rails fit and gauge is good.

But these 2 red rails is what will not be able to slide into the spikes:


The black marker is just me thinking about here to put PC ties.

Now would you keep the ties in those places then just cut them out after you start the rail or would you make the switch into multiple smaller sections that you could slid into place as you build the turnout?

[Chris333]

I'd probably remove those ties from the 3D file. Maybe make a way to hold PC ties in place. Slide all the rail in place and solder the PC ties. Resin is very resistant to heat. I've made soldering jigs out of it before.

[chessie system fan]

This is a timely thread. I've been mulling over what to do with my code 25 project. I haven't built anything yet, but I plan to try making a turnout in several 3D printed sections  that will slide together. I think my plan gets around our problem that you identified. I'll see if I can draw something later so that you can see what I'm talking about.

[rodsup9000]

Here's how I did my bridge track.


I made the ties where the PC board ties go thinner.

Then super glued the PC ties in

[Scottl]

What about a smaller tie piece that you can mount the red rails to, and have spike nubs on one half of the frog 'guard' rail part that match nubs on the other side of the main turnout print.  Not sure if that is clear, but having one or two inset pieces printed that key to holes in the main print could help alieviate the issue. 

Looking at what you have printed, I don't see much point in all the soldered ties.

[edit]  I think this is what @vermonter_railfan was suggesting too.

[Chris333]

I just did this:


Now I'm able to slide the red rails in place.

I think I'd still need at least one PC tie to join everything electrically.