ScaleTrains GP30 Arrival (End of January)

[packers#1]

I’ve noticed that too in HO Pete, especially on ones that have a keep alive circuit already as part of the factory DCC. I still like upgrading them with a Scale Sound Systems speaker and enclosure, but the factory DCC decoder works fine. I will say that I buy DC Athearn locos because I prefer to stick with ESU, but those shells are typically very easy to remove.

[C855B]

@C855B With respect to the lead filling the fuel tank, I am surprised that no one has made a 3d printed mold of the inside of the tank (use thick walls), melted the lead, and poured it into the mold to maximize the fill weight.

I've considered it, but the tungsten cubes + lead solution is super easy for the ST models - the fit is surprisingly efficient, space-wise. Might be worthwhile pursuing on the Atlas SD45s I have on the bench for detailing, but I haven't done any A-B testing to see if there are gains.

Of course, if I did such a thing and made the STL available, you know someone would come along and attempt the mold on an FDM printer. 

I think he will get a better deal buying them with DCC installed than buying the DC loco and then buying separate decoder. I think the cost difference between factory DC and DCC is less than the price of a separate decoder.

No, the ESU E24 LokPilot - provided you can find one! - is $30-35, while the factory differential DC vs DCC/sound is $105. Now what is a possibility is the factory offers an installation service for the LokPilot for $30. That would be worth the bother, and let them fiddle with the (damn) wheel sander detail and coupler boxes!

[peteski]

No, the ESU E24 LokPilot - provided you can find one! - is $30-35, while the factory differential DC vs DCC/sound is $105. Now what is a possibility is the factory offers an installation service for the LokPilot for $30. That would be worth the bother, and let them fiddle with the (damn) wheel sander detail and coupler boxes!

Ah, I was assuming a LokSound decoder. Oh well.

[Southern1970]

I think he will get a better deal buying them with DCC installed than buying the DC loco and then buying separate decoder. I think the cost difference between factory DC and DCC is less than the price of a separate decoder. I'm not even including the cost of labor time your friend had to spend  installing the decoder.

I’m finding that out the hard way.  I think after other hearing about the issues with their first run of their SD40-2 and also wanting to make my own speaker enclosures I thought it do it the long/hard way.  In hindsight I wish I got the loksound and speakers installed from factory. 

[OldEastRR]

Well, by his sixth GP30 my friend got the decoder installation time down to 45 min per loco, but now one of them only has the on-off front-rear light function. He tried some pulling power effort, says one unit can handle 6-7 std freight cars on almost no grade. Hasn't programmed them (even for engine #s) or run any farther than a few feet back and forth. He did remove some of the gingerbread details (or they removed themselves) during the work on them.

Shore is a purdy loco, but I'm wondering what kind of peformance it'll have in regular model RR (UP passenger) operations.

[peteski]

Well, by his sixth GP30 my friend got the decoder installation time down to 45 min per loco, but now one of them only has the on-off front-rear light function. He tried some pulling power effort, says one unit can handle 6-7 std freight cars on almost no grade. Hasn't programmed them (even for engine #s) or run any farther than a few feet back and forth. He did remove some of the gingerbread details (or they removed themselves) during the work on them.

That doesn't really doesn't tell us much.



So this is a newly designed model?  WTF!?  That thing has a wire rat's-nest worse than the Mehano models from the '70s!! But I digress  . . .
The light board has an E24 connector on it.  Why is your friend find the decoder install so difficult?  Just unplug the dummy plug and install any E24-based decoder.

If both headlights worked in the DC model (which I assume they did, since the bummy plug hard-wired them to the track), if the don't work properly with a decoder installed then it is most likely a problem with the decoder's programming (or the decoder is caput).  It is not that complicated!

What brand of decoder is he installing? As you mentioned earlier, I agree with you that your friend would be better off buying these models with decoders factory installed.

[OldEastRR]

That doesn't really doesn't tell us much.



So this is a newly designed model?  WTF!?  That thing has a wire rat's-nest worse than the Mehano models from the '70s!! But I digress  . . .
The light board has an E24 connector on it.  Why is your friend find the decoder install so difficult?  Just unplug the dummy plug and install any E24-based decoder.

If both headlights worked in the DC model (which I assume they did, since the bummy plug hard-wired them to the track), if the don't work properly with a decoder installed then it is most likely a problem with the decoder's programming (or the decoder is caput).  It is not that complicated!

What brand of decoder is he installing? As you mentioned earlier, I agree with you that your friend would be better off buying these models with decoders factory installed.

Yeah, just plug in a new decoder  ... EXCEPT to get the shell off to do that, you must remove the couplers which are NOT ASSEMBLED. BOING! And so when you put the shell back on after the easy=peasy decoder plug in you must REASSEMBLE the couplers to attch them and the shell to the frame.
Maybe there are people with itty-bitty fingers and hands that are rock-steady, eyes sharp enough to put the couple together with ease, but my friend doesn't happen to be one of those people.

[spookshow]

If the springs pop out, you really need a Micro-Trains coupler assembly jig to get them back in (it's still a PITA, but it's at least possible). And to save myself from having to do it more than once, I use a tiny amount of white glue on the edges of the lid to keep it from popping off.

-Mark

[OldEastRR]

This thread seems to have petered out about the loco's performance, weights to add, etc. How are people finding the loco's day to day operation and pulling capacity?

[spookshow]

My review -

These are superb runners - smooth, whisper quiet, excellent slow-speed creep and a realistic top-end speed. Mine ran well right out of the box, so pre-emptive wheels cleaning doesn't appear to be required. Mine can creep through insulated frog turnouts at very slow speeds, so pickup is flawless. Pulling power is adequate (although just barely), with mine able to handle about 25 assorted 40' freight cars through curves on level track (any more than that and the wheels are slipping). I didn't have any problems with the wheels derailing (even on 9.75" radius curves). The sound isn't bad, although perhaps just a bit thin and tinny sounding to my ear (which is pretty much my opinion of most N scale sound installations these days).

-Mark

[wmcbride]

My review -

These are superb runners - smooth, whisper quiet, excellent slow-speed creep and a realistic top-end speed. Mine ran well right out of the box, so pre-emptive wheels cleaning doesn't appear to be required. Mine can creep through insulated frog turnouts at very slow speeds, so pickup is flawless. Pulling power is adequate (although just barely), with mine able to handle about 25 assorted 40' freight cars through curves on level track (any more than that and the wheels are slipping). I didn't have any problems with the wheels derailing (even on 9.75" radius curves). The sound isn't bad, although perhaps just a bit thin and tinny sounding to my ear (which is pretty much my opinion of most N scale sound installations these days).

-Mark

I agree.

ST sound is tinny because they continue to fail to enclose their speakers properly. The holes in the bottom of the speaker guarantee the sound will be tinny.

The best factory sound I have came in Rapido Dash 8-40CMs. The horn was vibrant as well as the engine sounds -- not tinny at all.

I also have excellent sounds from my Atlas SD35s (both Gold and Silver to which I added Loksound decoders).

ST seems a bit stubborn about speakers. I can understand the cost to retool but the GP30s were new tooling...

[Mark5]

ST seems a bit stubborn about speakers. I can understand the cost to retool but the GP30s were new tooling...

Agreed. I love their products but they do seem to be stubborn about speakers ... and couplers.

[wmcbride]

Agreed. I love their products but they do seem to be stubborn about speakers ... and couplers.

Yep, ST couplers are a bit ... striking.

[signalmaintainer]

Yep, ST couplers are a bit ... striking.

The pair on my Southern N scale version went in the trash before the unit was placed on the rails.