T-Trak module warping

[Dave V]

I have a double "drop" module from Klawndyke's. It's plywood, and it warps like a sonuvabitch. Several times now I've had to wet it and then weigh it down for a day to try to unwarp it, only for it to curl up again once free. Not just a little warp, mind you. Like a very, visible twist that you can easily see and that would not only affect the track level, but would exceed the usefulness of the leveling feet.

Oh, and did I mention this is happening in my basement during a Colorado winter? The amount of water vapor present in the air is pretty close to zero.

I'm on my fifth or sixth cycle of this; I've lost count.

Klawndyke's has a YouTube channel and he mentioned switching to MDF. But for now, I have this module that I should already be scenicking but I can't get past the "unwarping" stage. I'm out of ideas.

[davefoxx]

Can you glue some stiffeners to the underside/interior to straighten that plywood?  Reinforce the bejeevers out of it.

DFF

[Dave V]

Can you glue some stiffeners to the underside/interior to straighten that plywood?  Reinforce the bejeevers out of it.

DFF

I guess? Not even sure what I should use for that, or whether the thin plywood will take the screws well. The way it's warping, it's twisting along the long axis, so there aren't a lot of great reinforcement strategies for that.

I think this may be garbage-bound sadly.

[davefoxx]

In that case, will Klawndyke’s stand behind their product and send you a replacement?

DFF

[Dave V]

In that case, will Klawndyke’s stand behind their product and send you a replacement?

DFF

I'm about to find out.

[arbomambo]

Sorry you’re dealing with this…
In all of my years of T-TRAK, with over 40 modules, I’ve never had this issue… AND I live in a high humidity environment and don’t paint my modules save for the fascia and the top side scenery base.
I now only use Stuart Denniston’s very nice modules, which don’t warp, period.
Others I know, who have experienced this warping, have solved it with wood brace inserts.

[davefoxx]

I started thinking about it and realized that I had no idea whose module I built several years ago, so I peeked.  It’s a Tab Tec double module by CMR Products,which went together well.  They appear to still be in business, if it helps.  Hopefully, Klawndyke’s makes it right.

DFF

[wm3798]

It may be that it came from a high humidity environment, and your basement is sucking the lifeblood out of it.
Plywood warping can work in weird ways.

Cut some 1x1 strips, or go to the local home center and get some oak quarter round (3/4" x 3/4", not shoe, which is 3/4" x 1/2") and see if you can glue in a skeleton that will reinforce the corners and keep everything in check.  Pine might work but oak ain't goin' nowheres.  Use construction adhesive and lots of clamps.

Or you could just leave it wavy, and only run your Penn Central equipment

Lee

[Dave V]

It may be that it came from a high humidity environment, and your basement is sucking the lifeblood out of it.
Plywood warping can work in weird ways.

Cut some 1x1 strips, or go to the local home center and get some oak quarter round (3/4" x 3/4", not shoe, which is 3/4" x 1/2") and see if you can glue in a skeleton that will reinforce the corners and keep everything in check.  Pine might work but oak ain't goin' nowheres.  Use construction adhesive and lots of clamps.

Or you could just leave it wavy, and only run your Penn Central equipment

Lee

There's a central cross support that'll need to be removed for that to work.

[Point353]

I have a double "drop" module from Klawndyke's. It's plywood, and it warps like a sonuvabitch.

Another option would be sections of aluminum angle stock (available from Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) attached inside the module.

[Dave V]

Another option would be sections of aluminum angle stock (available from Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) attached inside the module.

That crossed my mind. But that just seems stupid that I should have to go to that extreme. Plus it'll significantly add to the cost and weight of the module.

[MK]

First, see if the seller can resolve.  If not, can you (easily?) skin the top plywood table top and put a clean piece on?  If you know someone with a table saw or have one yourself, it would be an easy peasey job to cut the top off.

[Dave V]

First, see if the seller can resolve.  If not, can you (easily?) skin the top plywood table top and put a clean piece on?  If you know someone with a table saw or have one yourself, it would be an easy peasey job to cut the top off.

Nah, I glued this thing together as if it were a bomb shelter. Besides, the sides are f**ked too. The whole bloody thing. I don't get it.

And yes, I'm waiting to hear back from Klawndyke's...

[dem34]

What thickness was he using. Ply is supposed to be stable, but if he's using 1/8" theres not enough interleaved layers to help in that regard. I like to bite the bullet and get mine made out of trim boards since those are about select grade.

[randgust]

On my "Hickory Bridge" and "Thompson" triple modules, where there is only a base built up off the 1/2" plywood on the very bottom, the 10" skyboard above track level is a structural part of the module for stiffness across the back and permanently secured.   Again, no rule that the skyboard has to be removable.

For my home-brews, I've gone to the high-quality birch plywood myself.   Oh and I also paint everything with latex paint.