That and some others are Good over all but many miss some important details...
% or Duty is mainly for PCM and related systems. Can have problems near 0% or 100% so don't be surprise when reaches below ~ 20% or above ~ 80% and display errors or 0 before system actually at 0 or 100%.
Temp Reading uses K type Thermocouples. Any K-type/Type-K works but not all probes read max and/or min temp the K allows. Example: Many probes that come with meters have poor insulation etc that can't handle > 300-500*F. Or Many HVAC techs have clamp probes with plastic parts that melts at higher temps. Note: Many Meters often have standard spacing at probe sockets and thus have or accept adapters to use standard plugin K type probes. K and other type plugs are 2 or 3 blades of different sizes/shapes so can't use wrong ones to plug into X tool. Usually K type plug is Yellow and Marked K somewhere.
Amp Clamps are still mostly AC but many newer meters have AC/DC clamps. AC just uses a coil/coils to read amp loads. DC uses Hall Effect "Chip" that's very picky how use or even can use it at all. If have large magnets or big coils near by the "chip" may read wrong or flooded causing read error. Example: If your reading Amps to vehicle starter or AC clutch coil, you what the meter far away from either as magnet fields changes can screw up the "chip." Read manual and expect to reset the meter often as you move to next area to test. Uni-T and others make Small Amp Clamps to work with loads eating very few amps.
NCV = Non-Contact Voltage Detection and can work but Most "Pro's" Do Not Trust this. Often because won't "see" power when the circuit load is simply Off. Is why many still use 3 light outlet tester etc to check that a Breaker at the Load Center is Off. Depending on tool design, NCV May not work for any DC circuits.
Capacitors Be Careful here. 1. Short the Cap before testing. Caps can have enough charge that can destroy the tool or hurt/kill you even days to weeks unconnected to anything. 2. Short the Cap After testing. Don't trust the tool to drain the cap.
Fuses Many do have Fuses or even Breakers on Amp ranges and more... Sadly Many Do Not have them and not just "cheap" meters. When you replace these fuses, the new ones should be Ceramic Sand Fill Fuses. These are much harder to flash over letting power to continue to flow when the blown.
Voltage Rating and Safety Marks: Unless the meter is from Known Brands, like Fluke, Craftsman, Klein and related, these "Ratings" and Marks are often Counterfeited. Example: Many meters or probes claim "Cat III 600V" can't really handle 120VAC safely and not just very cheap units you get from Harbor Freight and others. UL and other Safety Marks have Huge Problems with Counterfeiting. Is why many UL marks also have a Number that can look up to see if valid or not.
