Need some creative ideas for ballasting

[Lemosteam]

This question is kinda languishing in my layout thread, so I thought more airplay might help.  I am not complaining, I just know someone has a better suggestion than my own below.

A second question that forgive me if I may have asked before.  Its almost time to ballast the elevated berm.  There will be catenary poles on magnets about every 300 scale feet. the poles have magnets to hold them in place to secured metal triangles (glass points) in the roadbed.  The poles need to be removeable, and I want the ballast to surround their bases to look like they are not removeable, with a small gap to allow them to pull straight out of the ballast with minimal destruction to the ballast.



I would like to ballast with the poles in place, but I do not want the ballast gluing process to secure the poles in place accidentally.

Looking for ideas to prevent this.

My first idea is to wrap the pole bases with Kapton tape and then put them in place and ballast around them fully, let the ballast fully dry, and then try to pull the poles out.  if the Kapton sticks to the glue, fine, but hoping the poles release from the Kapton easily.  Or the best scenario that the ballast will "mold" to the Kapton and the slipperiness of the Kapton will just slide out with the pole, leaving the square hole behind.

Coat the pole bases with grease or oil during ballasting, hopefully keeping the Elmer's mix from sticking to them during ballasting?

Help appreciated!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ok. Here's what ya do. CA some ballast to the bases. Then put them in place while you scenic. Remove them while things are drying.

You'll essentially be making a mold.

[hegstad1]

Coat the poles with a bit of Vasoline before gluing the ballast?

[Lemosteam]

@Ed Kapuscinski   Doesn't that just move the problem from the base to the CA ballast?  Won't the new ballast and its glue soak just stick to that, or am I misunderstanding you?  I am also worried about the soak wicking under the magnet and gluing that to the layout.

Sorry if I seem to be overthinking this.

@hegstad1 that might be the play.  The tops of the based will be proud of the top of the ballast and the grease will protect the magnet and the glass point.

[Cajonpassfan]

John, is the idea behind the magnets to allow the poles to pop without damage when accidentally hit, or simply to allow removal for cleaning and maintenance? If the former, ballasting around the bases/foundations may interfere with any lateral movement. If the latter, why not make the bases permanent and simply allow the posts to slide in and out? If it's both, the ballast needs to be pretty shallow and putting a bit of lubricant on the foundation sides should do the trick. I assume you're not stringing catenary on these?
Have fun,
Otto

[Brian M]

I would say ballast with the poles in place (apply wet glue to the ballast, especially around the poles), and after about 20 or 30 minutes, just pull the poles out.  The glue should set up enough to keep the ballast in place, but won't be dry enough to glue the poles in.  Any ballast that comes loose in the process you should be able to gently put back in place.

-Brian.

[Lemosteam]

@Cajonpassfan I want to be able to run either way, with cats and without, so I want no remnant. Yes there will be a hole, but I can avoid that when photographing.  The ballast will not be ash high as the berm cap.

[Lemosteam]

I would say ballast with the poles in place (apply wet glue to the ballast, especially around the poles), and after about 20 or 30 minutes, just pull the poles out.  The glue should set up enough to keep the ballast in place, but won't be dry enough to glue the poles in.  Any ballast that comes loose in the process you should be able to gently put back in place.

-Brian.

@Brian M , This I can test.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I would say ballast with the poles in place (apply wet glue to the ballast, especially around the poles), and after about 20 or 30 minutes, just pull the poles out.  The glue should set up enough to keep the ballast in place, but won't be dry enough to glue the poles in.  Any ballast that comes loose in the process you should be able to gently put back in place.

-Brian.

Yeah, that's basically what I was describing too. But in my version, you'd have some ballast attached to the pole so that when it's in place the visual separation line will be masked by the ballast itself.

[Lemosteam]

Yeah, that's basically what I was describing too. But in my version, you'd have some ballast attached to the pole so that when it's in place the visual separation line will be masked by the ballast itself.

Got it thanks- I'll un a test- that was not clear in your original post.

[Rossford Yard]

I would tape around the base tightly based on the description here to minimize it, but just like getting ballast in turnout parts, in most cases, within a day of ballasting, if I find those stuck I keep spraying with water until the glue loosens up to fix any mistakes.  I think that could be done with these poles as well.

[robert3985]

Here's the solution.  It's called "mold release"... https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03301CS-Silicone-Release-Colorless/dp/B0013J3ZP4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3JZI4VG5M22EX&keywords=crc%2Bfood%2Bgrade%2Bmold%2Brelease&qid=1682715098&s=industrial&sprefix=crc%2Bfood%2Bgrade%2Bmold%2Brelease%2Cindustrial%2C137&sr=1-1&th=1

Just spray it on, and nothing will stick to it...

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[brill27mcb]

Most structural steel catenary support poles that I have seen don't just go into the ground. They are mounted to, or cast into, wider and often sloped-top concrete bases that stick up above the ground. This offers better durability for the steel, since it then doesn't sit in a puddle or wet ground for prolonged periods. The wider concrete foundation also offers better stability against taking a non-vertical lean over time. I suggest you look closely at whatever prototype you want to model and see what they did.

Rich K.

[peteski]

Looking at John's earlier photo, those poles do have concrete "footings" or bases.  It would have been good if those bases coudl have been planted in the layout (with ballast around them), and the poles installed and removed from the bases.

[Lemosteam]

Looking at John's earlier photo, those poles do have concrete "footings" or bases.  It would have been good if those bases coudl have been planted in the layout (with ballast around them), and the poles installed and removed from the bases.

Yes, they are there.

Again. No way to plant them perfectly, and I don’t want them there when I pull them for non electric photographs.