The best instructions I ever found for this were from Bob Ellis Chodroff, ( PowerSteamGuy1790) Unfortunately, Bob is no longer with us, and the photos from his blog have disappeared. Luckily, I had an offline copy, so let's see if I can summarize (photos from PowerSteamGuy1790):
Step ZERO: If the piping/handrail details are installed, make sure they have been detached from the smoke box before proceeding
First remove the draw bar from the loco. I loosened the gear plate (two screws) to free the draw bar. The rear truck will come loose as well. Replace the rear truck for the time being and re-tighten the two screws holding the gear plate in place.
Be careful not to bend the draw bar. If the draw bar is bent in any manner, the operation of this steam loco will be compromised, as the draw bar is the weak link in the Kato Mikado. It might be wise to have two or three extra draw bars on hand. They can be purchased directly form Kato USA (
www.KatoUSA.com) or online.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Now remove the cab and the piece directly below the cab. This piece slides out easily.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Lift the boiler shell, starting from the rear. Be VERY VERY careful when unhooking the shell at the front, as the snap in tabs are very fragile and easy to break off
Remove the smoke box. You have to slightly spread the pistons apart to remove the smoke box. Before you do this, lift the ladders and remove them from the boiler shell. If you spread the pistons too far apart, the entire valve gear will come loose and drop out. So be careful when doing this procedure.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Remove the side boards and the weight on top of the loco frame. The side boards are each comprised of two pieces and snap off each side of the frame.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Reassemble in opposite order.
HOWEVER, if you think something is "stuck in the mechanism", you may want to VERY CAREFULLY unscrew the plate that holds the drivers in place and check for debris around these. Do not dislodge the drivers from the frame, since getting them all back in a quartered properly is a PITA.
The other thing to check are the piston valves, if the plastic has become misaligned on either side, that can easily jam up the mechanism.