F unit shell swaps (Kato, BLI, Intermountain)

[Cajonpassfan]

I own  multiple F units from all three manufacturers, but none of them are what I’d call optimal/layout ready for my ATSF/UP LA Division layout. During my era, the F7’s mostly ran in ABBA sets, with minor exceptions (such as the 300 class ABB units on the Santa Fe and occasional ABA F3 or ABB set on the UP). And, I like DCC sound. My older Kato are not DCC ready, and DCC sound is a challenge; the Intermountains can be converted to DC sound, at substantial cost and effort, and the sound-equipped BLI’s are pricey and the AB sets only come with one (under)powered unit. So on my mountain railroad, the ABBA BLI sets sound good but don’t have enough power, the Intermountains come all powered, with almost too much power to run with helpers/pushers. Sooo, here’s a BLI set, with DCC/sound A’s, one BLI dummy and the second dummy replaced by an IM power unit with a BLI shell. It fits very nicely, with minor trimming. I just need to paint or replace the IM truck frames...plenty of power for its 13 car train up a 2.2% grade.
Otto K.

[thomasjmdavis]

Thanks for posting Otto.  Nice photo.  And good to know (in advance) that if and when it comes to that on my railroad, I can swap IM and BLI.  My IM ATSF (pass) units all have silver trucks, so either they came with them or I painted them sometime long ago. 

I have tried to fit IM shells on early run Kato frames, back in the days when somebody on eBay was selling IM bodies at very low prices.  Got scared off because they were just too tight and I was sure I would break something.  Haven't tried with the newer Kato frames. 

In my own case, I found that I did not really need 4 powered units for most of my passenger trains.  So I have been "dummy-ing" some of my older Kato B-unit non-DCC frames by removing gears and motors.  My thought in the long run is to install some sort of sound units in them but I haven't gotten that far yet.  It also cuts down on the number of decoders needed in a consist, and the total amps for the planned layout. 

[superchief]

Looking great as always Otto!, but wait I thought you modeled 49/50 what are those high levels doing there!!!LOL...I have always been a Kato man when it comes to F units, I had the first run I/M with pinned drawbars and had bad issues with the trucks dragging. The BLI I have (E8/ PA's) have power issues cutting out over turnouts and sound dropping. I know replace turnouts and wire the frogs, but the Athearn steam and FP45 have no issue/ drop out over turnouts. The I/M and BLI shells are way above Kato but Kato running gear is rock solid. 75% of my fleet are the older "rev" unit that weigh a ton and can pull anything, so much that i have have to pull motors and gears to make non powered units so they cannot make the hill and NEED helpers. I do like sound but will not give up the performance for it. Please keep us post on your efforts on the shell swap! I have put a LL E6 shell on a Kato E8 for the train #11/12 The Chicagoan.
                                                        Have a safe and healthy holidays, Gordon

[Cajonpassfan]

LOL Gordon, yeah, I know, busted! But I couldn’t very well NOT buy the hi-level El Cap when Kato first released them; we have to support manufacturers who make models of our favorite road, right? I also bought the add-on cars. Most of the time, the 13 car El Cap is parked in a staging track, and some day, I’ll finish an all-brass ‘47 set of PRB cars that roll like sleds. Btw, I find the Paragon 3 engines a lot less prone to power cutouts.

Tom, thanks for the compliment, appreciated. I too found the four IM units to have more power than I need (or want, as I’d like to use helpers) hence the shell swap. The wimpy BLI set gets an extra powered B, and the IM set gets the dummy BLI chassis with an IM shell (although the BLI truck frames are a bit wider and rub against the middle ladder rungs...still got to deal with that). But I did put Kato shells on BLI mechs with success (had an old Kato DCC unfriendly set I detailed). See pic below.
Otto

[superchief]

Otto, Beautiful job on the cat wisker paint job!!!!!!!! I was not busting you(LOL) I have the 1956 Kato version (it is nice, isn't it?) as well the FP45 sound engine for open houses. And a pieced together low level version for the op sessions. Just came in from running a freight only session with half a crew due to COVID. miss the run sessions and need to get back at work on the layout!!!
                                                                 Cheers, Gordon!!

[thomasjmdavis]

Otto,
I'll second Gordon's comment on the Catwhisker F units.  Very well done.  I have plans (a pair of shells painted blue and a sheet of decals) to do a few Catwhisker F7s myself.  I hope mine come out half as nice as those.  BTW, which "cream" paint did you use?

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks guys! Frankly, I don’t recall the paint, that was like 25 years ago...maybe Polyscale CWY? I do know the Microscale Catwhiskers didn’t quite cover so they are in two layers for a better match.
Otto

[Cajonpassfan]

So, these various shell swaps, grafting shells I like with DCC sound or friendly mechanisms have left me with some shells I don’t need and pre DCC friendly Kato mechs. I don’t want these to go to waste, so tonight I fitted a couple of old but well performing Kato DC F units with new BLI SP “Bloody Nose” shells, and voila’. The Kato mechs needed a bit of trimming/filing, as did the inside of the A shell, but the result is nice, I think. The shells are a tight press fit, with stops inside the shell roofs to ensure proper height, see pics. So if anyone was wondering whether BLI F unit shells will fit on a Kato mech, the answer is yes, with a bit of tweaking...I installed Unimates between the units, and an MT on the back of the B. The A unit still needs a coupler...an MT, 905, or even a TrueScale?
Pics below.
Otto K.

[PRSL66]

Otto,

   Looking to do the same project, could you tell me where on the frame and shell need the filing/tweaking please? Kato DCC frame to a BLI shell.

Ed.

[Cajonpassfan]

Ed, it’s been a few months and several other projects ago, so I’m not sure I remember precisely. I seem to recall the the Kato mech is a tiny bit longer and needed to be shortened by filing the end (s). Also, I had to file off a bit of shell material on the inside front of the A unit. It should be obvious where to trim once you try the fit...
Good luck,
Otto

[PRSL66]

 Otto,
    Tyvm! I'll post updates when work begins!

Ed.

[mmagliaro]

I just happened to help someone put IM F7 shells on Kato F7 mechanisms last weekend.
I needed to take off .005" on each side at the front and rear frame "bulges" and the same off the slightly protruding
areas above the fuel tank in the center.  Then take .040" off the rear, and finally, just file the rounded corners on the nose
somewhat, and it will drop right into the IM shell.

[PRSL66]

Thanks for the specifics!!

[central.vermont]

I just happened to help someone put IM F7 shells on Kato F7 mechanisms last weekend.
I needed to take off .005" on each side at the front and rear frame "bulges" and the same off the slightly protruding
areas above the fuel tank in the center.  Then take .040" off the rear, and finally, just file the rounded corners on the nose
somewhat, and it will drop right into the IM shell.

Thanks for this info Max. I just so happen to have an IM shell and Kato chassis and was wondering if this would work.
One question though, did you use a DC or DCC ready chassis?

Jon

[mmagliaro]

Thanks for this info Max. I just so happen to have an IM shell and Kato chassis and was wondering if this would work.
One question though, did you use a DC or DCC ready chassis?

Jon

It was a DC chassis.  Owner wants a decoder in it, but he says he can manage to make the pockets for it, and we kind of ran out of time.  Otherwise, I would have kept right on milling and made the cavities for him.   You can remove a lot less metal than they did on the DCC-ready chassis,  put your own decoder in there, and get a heavier engine if you do it yourself.

Other tidbits:
The windshield still fits, no problem.  You might have a little interference with the clear plastic headlight light tube on the inside.
We just Dremeled a little metal away from the center of the nose to make room for that.