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Thanks, Pete. The rails and tie bed were airbrushed with Model Masters acrylics, Field Drab on the rails and Rail Tie Brown on the rest, bed and all. To fill the void between the Rokuhan rail bed and the 1/8" deep pocket wall I cut strips from some scraps of Woodland Scenics foam road bed strips. (I finally found a use for that stuff.) It has the perfect characteristics for that purpose. I glued those strips to the Rokuhan tie bed with Tight Bond II to hold it in place and also to act as a bit of a gasket to help keep scenic glue from running down into the works. Installing them in the base pocket, the foam compressed nicely as needed, filling the void perfectly, stiffened slightly by the scenic materials on top. All removable should the need arise.Outside the rails and between the guard rails at each end I used the regular ballast, proceeding cautiously with the ballast and glue to not glue the point bar in place or get it into the mechanisms. The ballast simulation on the cast frog, formed point rails, and the visible bits of factory textured road bed between the rails is just craft paint applied abritrarily in dots with a very fine brush. Assorted applications of tans, browns, grays, and black, sometimes thinned near to a wash and sometimes very little thinning and applied with the brush blotted to near dry. It's not something I've got much experience with so just stumbled along seeing what might work, using the adjacent actual ballast as a color guide. It came out OK and looks fine to the naked eye and even passes acceptably in the closer photographs. For what it is, I'm happy but I really need to just make real code 40 switches. I've been contemplating that including all of the details like powered frogs and an under tie bed switch machine for remote operation. The code 40 track system worked really well and the switches will be acceptable for this test track and a working option for someone who may be bent on using them. They DO have a lot of options available.
Trying to make a New England-style small church and apparently I need a TALL spire but is this one "look "right"? Or is it too bulky, needs to be slimmed down? -- I know the height is alright because those spires are really really tall.
... that is *A LOT* of work to make that turnout look acceptable! I agree that handlaid code 40 turnouts will look better (and will probably take less time than what you spend on making that Rokuhan turnout look passable).
I'm on the air on WTBO.
I really don't have any pictures, but I think I can explain it in text well enough.
... Also, be mindful of the building's overall proportions--that is, the height of the steeple relative to the rest of the building. A small, single-story church is unlikely to have a 150-foot steeple.
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Topic: Weekend Update 5/19/19 (Read 11594 times)
