Weekend Update 9/4/16

[peteski]

Thanks, guys! Yes, the prototype lettering is (was) freakishly large on this loco and is why I attempted to stretch the decals out more.

I may have come up with an alterative method for stretching the S that covers about the same amount of real estate. Let me know what you think before I strip off the current S's and apply these....


Not perfect, but....

Short of a custom decal set, this may be the closest I can get.

Russ,
the new stretching method looks really good. But I still think you can save the model without a full repaint. Here is a photo where I shortened the bottom of the "S".  I think that makes a huge difference. The insert shows your original "S".  Use the door hinge as a reference point showing you how I shortened the "S".  If you could just use some touch-up red paint and do in real life what I Photoshopped, that I think would work.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[OldEastRR]

Thanks, guys! Yes, the prototype lettering is (was) freakishly large on this loco and is why I attempted to stretch the decals out more.

I may have come up with an alterative method for stretching the S that covers about the same amount of real estate. Let me know what you think before I strip off the current S's and apply these....



Here's a comparison shot with the stock lettering....



Not perfect, but....

Short of a custom decal set, this may be the closest I can get.

What about the HO version of the set? "Freakishly large" sorta describes HO lettering, anyway -- at least for N use.

[jagged ben]

Russ, looks good to me, please don't demote that unit to another scarlet and gray.   

[tehachapifan]

Thanks for the feedback, guys! I don't think the HO version of this set would work but maybe the set for SPSF cabooses might, although the font appears similar to me.

Russ,
the new stretching method looks really good. But I still think you can save the model without a full repaint. Here is a photo where I shortened the bottom of the "S".  I think that makes a huge difference. The insert shows your original "S".  Use the door hinge as a reference point showing you how I shortened the "S".  If you could just use some touch-up red paint and do in real life what I Photoshopped, that I think would work.

(Attachment Link)

Peteski, what you've cut the S back to is almost exactly where the original S ends, so I could just remove the added-on part. The model has not yet been clear-coated, so removing decals or parts of decals is possible without stripping the shell. The decals laid down really good and with very few bubbles to deal with, so I hate the idea of remove them. Still, I'm concerned that the S may look too small next to the P once the extra piece is removed. I guess I can start there and see how it looks before removing the whole S.

[nickelplate759]

To me, the thing that most makes the S look askew is subtle but may be simple to fix.  On the prototype, the squared-off ends of the S are parallel to the vertical shaft of the P.  On your model the ends of the S are not parallel to the P.  I think that fixing that (just by trimming a triangle off of each end of the S) will go a long way towards making the S look right.

George

[peteski]

Thanks for the feedback, guys! I don't think the HO version of this set would work but maybe the set for SPSF cabooses might, although the font appears similar to me.

Peteski, what you've cut the S back to is almost exactly where the original S ends, so I could just remove the added-on part.

But you do see that your original was way too long, right? Especially compared with the one on the top side of the "S".  I aslo agree with what George said about the ends not being parallel to the "P".

[tehachapifan]

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1840760

.....Love your 1500 'bashes btw., among my favorite things I've seen on the Railwire!!

Sorry, I missed this comment until now. Thank you very much!

But you do see that your original was way too long, right?...

Right. I only mentioned that because it would be fairly easy to just remove the extension without needing to paint over anything.

...I aslo agree with what George said about the ends not being parallel to the "P".

Since this is also apparent, I am probably going to replace the entire S with the new one shown above. It should solve both these issues.

[tehachapifan]

Okay, I replaced the S on both sides with the new one. Still not an exact match but way closer. I think I like it!

I also addressed the "parallel" issue better (it may look a little off still in the photo, but I think that's due to camera angle)....



This is a freshly applied decal. Still many coats of Micro Sol yet to apply!

[peteski]

Okay, I replaced the S on both sides with the new one. Still not an exact match but way closer. I think I like it!

I also addressed the "parallel" issue better (it may look a little off still in the photo, but I think that's due to camera angle)....

This is a freshly applied decal. Still many coats of Micro Sol yet to apply!

Big improvement Russ - I like it.  The "P" doesn't bug me much.

[tehachapifan]

Thanks, Peteski! I appreciate the constructive criticism and suggestions. Ended up with a better model. Now if I can get these to lay down as good as the first ones, which went down near perfectly with almost no bubbles to deal with (of course!  ).

[tehachapifan]

With the new Weekend Update upon us, I'll close-out my hijacking of this one with final photos of the new and improved S's laid down with Micro Sol and ready for clearcoat......

[Santa Fe Guy]

Much Better Russ. I like this a lot. Looks right and having both letters parallel, well that is just the icing on the cake.
Rod.

[nickelplate759]

Looks terrific!

George