Hand laid crossing

[mighalpern]

Hey guys, not sure if this was the right place to post, but here goes.
I have several code 55 15 degree crossovers, but one in particular is causing me trouble with locos jumping or de-railing.  So I thought build one !!  I have build many turnouts and they work and look fine.  So I started with a zerox of an original and a copy of the fastracks cross over.

So I started from the top down, but when i got to the lower section, I was having issues with track gauge


So i will try again, maybe start from the middle out, or lay out 2 long straight sections and then solder all the other routes and then finally cut out the openings.  Or what ???

Any help would be great
thanks
miguel

[ednadolski]

I have several code 55 15 degree crossovers crossings

Not trying to be picky about terms, but a crossover is made from two turnouts between parallel tracks, while a crossing is when two tracks cross each other without a route for a train to transition from one track to the other. 

What I would do is start with a single set of frog rails (as you have done) and then line everything else up from that.  Use a long straightedge to assure correct alignment.  Remember that there is only one "mathematically correct" location for intersecting rails as they pass thru each frog, so try to keep any deviation to a minimum. You may find it convenient to tack down a temporary rail or two.  Don't solder to all the PCB ties right away, in case you need to make adjustments.

Ed

[wcfn100]

I'd say the issue you're having is from trying to make the point rail and guard rail as one piece.  You'll always be fighting track gauge somewhere doing so.  A lot of these tracks are going to be gapped anyway, so try and build in smaller sections.

Another reason you have gauge issues is that your points need more time spent on them.  They should come to a very sharp point that's in line with the inside of the rail.


Jason

[mighalpern]

thanks for the comments.
 The point rails look like s**t now cuz I had soldered them about 4 to 6  times trying to find the right spot.
I was using a straight edge to line up the rails and that why there are those large gaps at the cross overs ( red circled ).  I looked at it and thought that the tips should at least rest on the central PC tie, and tighten the whole thing up, but that just screwed the gauging up.
I'll try smaller sections, but worry that as I solder one I will loosen another where they meet.  I am using a 35 watt iron and let it get hot.
  I think I will over lay this on cork so I can use track nails to hold in place while I try and gauge it and then solder. 
thanks for the suggestions
Miguel

[ednadolski]

I think I will over lay this on cork so I can use track nails to hold in place while I try and gauge it and then solder. 

Cork is typically not very good for holding nails or spikes with much stability/accuracy.  I have heard that some folks use Homasote or a soft pine.

One thing I like to do is use a drop of white glue (or alternately, two-sided tape) to hold the PCB ties directly on the paper template, and then use the lines on the template to initially position the rail.   I then use the ME three-point track gauges to hold the rail in place for soldering.

Ed

[Chris333]

I haven't built a crossing yet.  But I use spray glue to hold the PC ties to the template. Double sided tape sounds less messy, but I didn't have any.

[bbussey]

I use double-sided tape as well.  And you definitely should have multiple ME three-point track gauges.  I use four at a time.  I also use T-pins to hold the rails in place (along with the track gauges) for soldering.

[mighalpern]

I am using double sided tape, which has its draw backs
 and the three point track gauges along with the NMRA gauge.
I think I will try using the point rails first and then build out and then come back to the guard rails
thanks
Miguel

[Jim Costello]

For what its worth,I glue my templates onto a solid piece of ply or other flat sheet with watered down PVA, then a quick setting PVA to hold the PCB's in place. It is easy to turn the base around to assist with soldering etc.
When dry,  I  make my turnouts/crossings etc. When finished I run warm/hot water over the surface to release the PVA glues.

In this case I would use a straight edge to set up the outer rail of the crossing to ensure a good straight line to set up your straight edge on and as a guide for your gauges. Pre-form, cut angles to match the template before tacking in place. Make sure you have good
sharp frog points where required and in some instances you can pre make them before setting in place. Also a good guide is that the flanges or base of the rail almost touch each other for clearance purposes on the NMRA Gauge. A good pointed steel rod and the soldering can move a solder joint into gauge quite easily.

Jim
Modelling the NH down under

[Chris333]

Also it looks like you are building over a photo copy of another crossing. Using the FT template would be easier because you can see right where the tips of all the parts fit.

[robert3985]

Good advice here from several real experts.  I agree that your points need to be sharper...this will also make them longer which will make travel over them smoother.  Aligning a reference set of frogs and rails using a metal straightedge is essential, then build the rest using ME three point gauges (I use four of them during turnout and track construction).

You also need to make sure your test car or truck or whatever you use has wheelsets that are EXACTLY gauged to NMRA specs as this could be a major problem if it's wide or narrow.

I notice you're getting "globbies" IN the frog...bad.  Here's a trick I do.  I flatten about 1/4" of my solder with my flat-nose pliers, then split the flattened portion with a sharp Xacto knife on a little block of Masonite or pine...spread the "tines" and use them, one at a time when soldering in areas you don't want excess solder.  This allows the solder to melt quicker and in much less volume.

Also, in areas where I have to be CERTAIN that I don't want any solder to flow...like down at the toes of my closure points, I cover the area I don't want solder to stick to with pencil lead markings...a sharp #2 or HB works great.  Solder won't stick to copper covered with pencil lead markings. Often, just a single line of pencil lead keeps the solder away.

You DO NOT need FT jigs & fixtures.  I've built thousands of turnouts on paper templates and 99.99% of the time, I don't have problems.  I'm sure your problem is simple and you'll figure it out quickly...keep up the good work!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[peteski]

I've built thousands of turnouts on paper templates and 99.99% of the time, I don't have problems.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Bob, I've told you a million times "do not exaggerate!"

Sorry, couldn't resist. 

But if you really have built thousands of handlaid turnouts then you truly are an amazing turnout-building machine!   

[robert3985]

Bob, I've told you a million times "do not exaggerate!"

Sorry, couldn't resist. 

But if you really have built thousands of handlaid turnouts then you truly are an amazing turnout-building machine!   

Peter,  HAHA!     Yup...not "thousands", but over a thousand.  I was the chief turnout constructor for a modular club I was in for nearly two decades, plus I was also fairly prolific in the modules I built.  When the club decided to go with C55 and C40 rails, it was understood that we would have to build our own.  Some member did, some didn't.  It was a nice little money maker for a while, until ME and Atlas started manufacturing C55 turnouts.

Now that the club has disbanded, I still build several dozen a year for my own use and will step it up when I get Riverdale & Ogden Yard sections designed sometime early next year.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[dckuk]

I'm glad so many of you were able to comment; one of my goals is to build a number of code 40 turnouts and one crossing for my home layout. That horrid thing called "a job" has put me several years behind schedule.

Bob, I wish I had seen this advice before buying a ft set, but my son is trying to go it by hand in a different scale, so once I get to a position to lay track again, I will have a go at it as well.

Regarding the crossing: what do y'all use to power? Switches or circuitry? Long, long way off from needing it myself, but might be a good time to ask!

[Jim Costello]

 If you had told me  5-6 years ago that I would be building my own turnouts I would have told you to  JUMP!..Having never done it before so I invested in a FT jig and tools.
 With about 180+ built so far,less than half of my turnouts have been done on the jig, all others freelanced off a commercial template or one of my own designs.  If you are unsure go for the jig and have fun, yes you might
 get a few stuffups ,but I am sure, like most have indicated here, you will be more than satisfied with your results.

Jim
Modelling the NH down under