Weekend Update 7/10/16

[chuck geiger]

You get any cracking where the sand meets the cork?

Jason

Never did, I am getting cracking on foam, with Midwest Cork and WS ballast on this layout, in one
spot. I just fill it in with more ballast.

[mecgp7]

Sounds like you need a spinning blade or a wheel type blade similar to a pizza cutter in order to cut that cork. Another option would be a mat cutter for picture frame mats. The angle is adjustable on those as well.

[Ntrainz1]

Painted and decaled another H44



Bob.

[randgust]

A couple of update shots from my "West Hickory" T-trak module.   I did the photography for the backdrop, it's the actual location.     I haven't entirely finished the depot yet, but I'm getting there.   I'm building this just not as T-trak, but as a photo diorama, so a lot of attention on detail will be done.


Stepping back....



I had to photoshop out a couple vehicles and a cell phone tower, but other than that, it's amazing how much it still looks like 1925.

[ai5629]

Painted and decaled another H44



Bob.

Very nice!  Did you use the Highball Graphics set (FN-277)?  I started some Conrail H44's eight years ago, and never finished them.  I really wish Atlas would tool an ACF early cylindrical covered hoppers in N.  I recall someone asking them years ago, and they did not want to duplicate a car already done by Bowser.  In recent years, there has been duplication of models (Atlas two bay center flow, MTL two bay center flow, Intermountain two bay center flow and Athearn two bay center flow), so I am hopeful Atlas will consider it some day.  Plus, you just decaled a car, so they are bound to announce it any day now   Thank you.

Jeff

[wcfn100]

Another option would be a mat cutter for picture frame mats. The angle is adjustable on those as well.

The first thing I did was look for an adjustable mat cutter and didn't find one.  Regardless, that's what I made so the results would be the same.




Jason

[Chris333]

I always sanded down the edges of cork. Course I sand the top flat as well.

[Ntrainz1]

Very nice!  Did you use the Highball Graphics set (FN-277)?  I started some Conrail H44's eight years ago, and never finished them.  I really wish Atlas would tool an ACF early cylindrical covered hoppers in N.  I recall someone asking them years ago, and they did not want to duplicate a car already done by Bowser.  In recent years, there has been duplication of models (Atlas two bay center flow, MTL two bay center flow, Intermountain two bay center flow and Athearn two bay center flow), so I am hopeful Atlas will consider it some day.  Plus, you just decaled a car, so they are bound to announce it any day now   Thank you.

Jeff

Yes, HG FN-277 and MS ACI tags. The HG sets are very nice. I did the grey car last month. The small white lettering on the green car was a real challenge for my eyes. Thank you.

Bob.

[altohorn25]

Was digging through some old pictures; thought you guys might get a kick out of this   Did this quite a few years ago; sold it, a matching unit, and a 10 car set of superliners painted up to match to a buddy of mine who lives in North Carolina.  It actually was a pretty nice looking train.  Too bad I didn't photograph the passenger cars.

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[nkalanaga]

Chuck:  Sand and ballast is actually what I used.  The roadbed is 1/4 inch balsa on 1/4 inch "furring strips" as risers, and, in the MILW area, somewhere to anchor the poles.  So, the track is a full half inch above the base foam.  I used mortar sand for the subroadbed, then about 1/8 inch of ballast on top of that, leaving a shoulder of the subroadbed showing on the well-maintained BN.  The MILW has less shoulder, as it's supposed to be rougher looking, to suit their 1970s look.  A little very fine dirt from the backyard finished the subroadbed.

Culverts went under the roadbed, between the furring strips, with the scenery built around them.  No drilling needed, just poke them through.

I used mortar sand a lot for fill, including areas where most people might have used a chunk of foam, newspapers and plaster, or other filler.  It's cheap, lays naturally, and after gluing with white glue, almost indestructable.  The balsa also works well, as it absorbs the glue without warping, so even thin layers of ballast don't separate and crack.

[OldEastRR]

You get any cracking where the sand meets the cork?

Jason

Do you have to cut the cork for the bevel? Why not make a block of wood w/ the angle you want, wrap it with sandpaper, and grind away the cork? The cork is soft enough that only a few passes should do it, and no need to worry about a smooth surface because ballast will cover it (in fact a rough surface may help the ballast stick better).
Or, I'm finishing up a machine that can cut any cork at any angle cleanly, uses lasers for cutting and measuring, is self-propelled and runs on lithium-ion batteries. Smooth excellent cork cutting, and the machine only costs $1859, plus shipping. But you'll have picture-perfect bevels!   
Sometimes we have a choice between a hard or expensive way or a simple and cheap one. One must choose wisely.

[wcfn100]

Do you have to cut the cork for the bevel?

No, I wanted to.  And designing and buying the cutter was simple and cheap.  It just happened to not work the way I hoped. 

Sanding is always available as an option, I was trying for something cleaner and more precise (and repeatable).

Jason

[UP4-8-8-4]

Took two extra Kato GG-1 drive sets, removed all gears, cut off both front end sections and cut off the gear towers.
Replaced one set of wheels per set.
Now have both Shapeways E74 Little Joe driver sets up and running.
Last step is to convert the GG-1 end trucks for the shorter Little Joe trucks, install the end decks, hand rails, air lines and MT coupler's, and body ladders.
Went with dull-coat finished on Shapeways.
Little Joe E75 in the back is Overland brass.

[craigolio1]

Took two extra Kato GG-1 drive sets, removed all gears, cut off both front end sections and cut off the gear towers.
Replaced one set of wheels per set.
Now have both Shapeways E74 Little Joe driver sets up and running.
Last step is to convert the GG-1 end trucks for the shorter Little Joe trucks, install the end decks, hand rails, air lines and MT coupler's, and body ladders.
Went with dull-coat finished on Shapeways.
Little Joe E75 in the back is Overland brass.

Awesome work!!!

[draskouasshat]

Great work Ernie! I have a secret infatuation will electrics of the Milwaukee!