proper treatment of FXD parts?

[Joetrain59]

Just got my first ever 3D product from Wutter, through Shapeways. I read you need to soak them overnight, or is it 24 hours, in Bestine? Also, should they be washed with hot water and Dawn first, after soaking, or not needed?
 Thanks for the advice.
 Joe D

[Missaberoad]

Watching this thread with great interest. I just ordered my first shapeways item a H-10-44 shell. 

[peteski]

FUD and FXD used the same resin in the printing process, so whatever method works for FUD, will work for FXD.

[C855B]

The solvent soak is to remove the support wax that didn't sublimate in the cure oven.

I use Bestine soak only, from 4 to 8 hours depending on size, gently agitating the jar once or twice. "Overnight" is a convenient analog for around eight hours. When removed from soak and fully dried, I follow-up with a dry soft toothbrush very gently to dislodge the remaining powder. That said, I have had no trouble (...yet...) with shells I've let soak for 24 hours or more.

YMMV, but I do not advocate the Dawn wash, especially if it infers any amount of scrubbing. FXD/FUD is very brittle compared to conventional modeling plastics like ABS and styrene. Handling small soapy wet bits with wet, soapy, slippery fingers is IMO an invitation to breaking details off. I know this the hard way.

[Joetrain59]

Pete, as I said, it is my 1st 3D piece, so don't know FXD from FUD, except the one that hunts wabbits! LOL
 Joe D

[Lemosteam]

The solvent soak is to remove the support wax that didn't sublimate in the cure oven.

I use Bestine soak only, from 4 to 8 hours depending on size, gently agitating the jar once or twice. "Overnight" is a convenient analog for around eight hours. When removed from soak and fully dried, I follow-up with a dry soft toothbrush very gently to dislodge the remaining powder. That said, I have had no trouble (...yet...) with shells I've let soak for 24 hours or more.

YMMV, but I do not advocate the Dawn wash, especially if it infers any amount of scrubbing. FXD/FUD is very brittle compared to conventional modeling plastics like ABS and styrene. Handling small soapy wet bits with wet, soapy, slippery fingers is IMO an invitation to breaking details off. I know this the hard way.

An alternative to physically agitating the parts at all (I use an ultrasonic brush with dish soap all the time) is to use an air eraser if you have one.  cleans up after affects nicely without physical contact.  I hold it in a pair of reverse tweesers or in my hand.

[Joetrain59]

What about painting 3D parts? Primer? Any other considerations? I got these,  http://www.shapeways.com/product/BKN9CHQHL/nw2-sealed-beam-headlight-plate-n-1-160-6x?li=shareProduct.
 Thanks,
 Joe D

[C855B]

Easy peasy. Once you've dealt with the wax, it takes paint very well, pretty much any paint. For detail parts like you mention, I've been hand brushing with Vallejo, no primer. FXD/FUD is porous, so there's lots of "tooth". I once tried the "fingernail test" on a part after the Vallejo dried, and clearly it was on there for good.

For larger things like shells, I'll typically put down a layer of white, either Tamiya white "fine" primer, or a coat of Tru-Color. This helps smooth the raster lines. If it's really rough (as FUD could be), I tried Scalecoat II since it is thicker, but I discovered that it took almost two days to fully cure, and, on a couple of test shells, started to fill-in details.

I like the way FUD/FXD takes paint, especially Tru-Color. I think it's going to be hard to screw it up. Somebody is more than welcome to step in with a rebuttal, however.

[Lemosteam]

I have has success dipping the parts in dull or glosscote to fill the pores, draining/wiping off excess, to use less primer.

For underbody (black) parts I dip three times into neolube and then dullcote two coats.

[Ngineer]

Has anybody ever tried Vallejo Surface Primer? It is a Polyurethane primer, unlike most other primers and thus should fill the porous surface.

   Javier

[Lemosteam]

No, but I will now, have you?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

This topic reminds me.

Does anyone know about the longevity of FXD/FUD?

My dad was telling me this story about a conversation he had with the folks at Funaro and Camerlengo that they're nervous about using 3D printing because they're concerned about the stuff disintegrating over time.

[Joetrain59]

Will brush on some paint tonight.

Now, do I have any CNJ green? Have to go through bottles and see what's good.
 Joe D

 Dipped one set into Dullcote, and brush painted Polyscale onto another. Will brush paint the Dullcote set,a nd photo later today for comparison.
 Joe D

[Joetrain59]

Brush painted Dullcote dipped set this afternoon. Was going to photo them a while ago, but dropped locking tweezer onto carpet. One headlight broke in two.
 Very brittle. How would you get them off sprue w/o damaging them?
 Did see a SLIGHT advantage with the Dullcote set, as in a bit smoother looking. But to naked eye, don't think it will matter. What is best glue to use with these type of parts?
 Thanks,
 Joe D

[C855B]

... What is best glue to use with these type of parts?

CA.