Adding ties after track is down?

[Joetrain59]

I see many of you have layouts in various stages of completion. Many with those "tie gaps" between sections of track/turnouts. I've started to fill in those gaps with the Peco ties, but not as easy as I thought it would be. I think Peco's intention was to add them as the track was laid. (?) I find I have to shave of the spike heads, and even widen the gaps in said ties where nylon joiners are. Your input please.
 I do find it makes a layout look just that more complete.
 Joe D

[pdx1955]

I usually take ties from old Atlas flextrack/sectional pieces that I have laying around. I cut them off the tie strip the length I need them - mostly its a pair but sometimes three and sometimes just one. I still shave the spike heads off and sand them down a bit so they slip under the joiners easily. This is easier than dealing with the Peco ties.

Peter

[robert3985]

Laying ties at rail joints after the track is down is a common approach to laying track.  However, just because it's common doesn't mean it's the best way. With a little planning I believe there's a better way which yields more realistic results:

Here's what I do: (1) Cut three or four (or more) spacing pieces between ties away on the ends of each piece of track, and then move the ties away from the rail ends (2) Snip railjoiners so they're only as long as the space between ties, and neatly solder them to the rail ends, eyeballing the track to ensure the transition is smooth between pieces of rail (3) move the ties back into place, butting two ties up against either side of the short railjoiners.  Voila! You have barely visible rail joints, mechanical control of the rail ends, electrical continuity (although I strongly encourage everybody to put a feeder on EVERY PIECE OF RAIL).

Photo (1)- Here's an example of the rail ends with ties spacers cut and ties moved back away from the ends:



Photo (2) - Joiners soldered but track not painted yet:



Photo (3) - Track painted, but not weathered or ballasted...joiners virtually disappear & no missing spikeheads or funky ties:



Yes, this does take a little longer, but I think it's worth it...

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[bbussey]

I usually take ties from old Atlas flextrack/sectional pieces that I have laying around. I cut them off the tie strip the length I need them - mostly its a pair but sometimes three and sometimes just one. I still shave the spike heads off and sand them down a bit so they slip under the joiners easily. This is easier than dealing with the Peco ties.

I do this as well, or I use wood ties. On the Atlas ties, I remove the spikes first. In both cases, I simply slide the ties in from the side and secure them to the cork with glue.

[Rossford Yard]

Not even sure its worth securing to the cork.  They seem to stay in place, especially after ballasting.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Yep.
In addition to slicing off the spike heads, I've also found that a pass or two over a sanding stick (on the bottom side) makes them slide under much easier.

[SP-Wolf]

Yep.
In addition to slicing off the spike heads, I've also found that a pass or two over a sanding stick (on the bottom side) makes them slide under much easier.

I second this. As this is exactly what I do.

Regards,
Wolf

[Kisatchie]

Once I get started with my layout, I'm using Kato Unitrack. No adding ties for me... ha ha ha ha ha


Hmm... no, just funny
colored ballast, code
80 rail, incorrect tie
spacing, blah blah...

[seusscaboose]

Sand off the heads
Ballast in place

[davefoxx]

^ This.

[craigolio1]

Laying ties at rail joints after the track is down is a common approach to laying track.  However, just because it's common doesn't mean it's the best way. With a little planning I believe there's a better way which yields more realistic results:

Here's what I do: (1) Cut three or four (or more) spacing pieces between ties away on the ends of each piece of track, and then move the ties away from the rail ends (2) Snip railjoiners so they're only as long as the space between ties, and neatly solder them to the rail ends, eyeballing the track to ensure the transition is smooth between pieces of rail (3) move the ties back into place, butting two ties up against either side of the short railjoiners.  Voila! You have barely visible rail joints, mechanical control of the rail ends, electrical continuity (although I strongly encourage everybody to put a feeder on EVERY PIECE OF RAIL).

Photo (1)- Here's an example of the rail ends with ties spacers cut and ties moved back away from the ends:



Photo (2) - Joiners soldered but track not painted yet:



Photo (3) - Track painted, but not weathered or ballasted...joiners virtually disappear & no missing spikeheads or funky ties:



Yes, this does take a little longer, but I think it's worth it...

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Very nice.

Any tips on cutting short pieces of rail joiner and no just crushing them in to flat folded metal?

Craig.

[robert3985]

Very nice.

Any tips on cutting short pieces of rail joiner and no just crushing them in to flat folded metal?

Craig.

Craig, good question.  Ya cut them while they're mounted on an appropriate piece of sacrificial rail, cutting both joiner and rail at the same time, then file or sand (I use a sanding disk on my Dremel) their ends to square them up and get rid of any burrs.  After sanding, slip them further on to the rail, which will push any burrs on the inside edges of the joiner to the outside.

By "appropriate" I mean for example ME rail of the matching size to the ME rail joiner designed for it, Atlas 55 rail to an Atlas 55 rail joiner, etc., etc

Mounting the little buggers on the rail ends can be frustrating, so I've found that a quick swipe of a fine jeweler's file on the bottom edge of the cut railfoot and another swipe or two at a 45 deg. angle on the cut railfoot corners facilitates easier mounting.  Code 55 and code 40 rail joiners (Micro Engineering) are a snug fit in any case, which is good, but makes them more difficult to slip on the rail ends than Atlas 55 joiners, especially if there are burrs anywhere.

On a good day, I can get three shortened joiners out of each full-sized joiner, the rest of the time I get two.

The ends of the joiners have a "tongue" on either end, which need to be cut off and then dressed a bit if needed.  I just clean my cuts up as a matter of course, since it's more efficient than not doing it initially and wasting time trying to fit the new joiner on the rail end and failing.

A sharp, non-nicked flush-cutter is essential, and I find my Optivisor is also essential.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Joetrain59]

I've been getting one or two sections done, when I have time. Or until frustration gets too high. Have to use some coarser sandpaper, or block to thin ties. Just so hard to hold onto.
 Joe D