Removing Trucks From Trix H12-44

[tehachapifan]

I've taken apart many-a-loco but this one has me completely stumped. Any tips would be appreciated as I would like to install some NWSL wheel sets in it.

Thanks!

[Spades]

I never had a H12-44, but if it is like the U38/30 you just straighten the trucks and push out the pin in the top of the tower in the little cut out of the frame.  Mind you I got rid of those units as soon as the Kato U boats came out. Which was along time ago
.

[tehachapifan]

Ah...the pin slides out! Who would guess! Now to figure out how to disassemble the trucks.

[tehachapifan]

OK, got the new wheelsets installed.

I have to say, for an older model, this thing runs and looks pretty darn good (aside from the handrails) and it seems to have bullet-proof electrical pickup.

[thomasjmdavis]

Tehachapifan,

Did you use the 7440-4 wheelset?  That was the only one I could find for a Trix loco, but it wasn't specific on which Trix it would fit.  I have a similar project on my to-do list.

Thanks
Tom D

[Doug G.]

This little loco is one of the better N scale locos of the early N scale days. In fact, it stands up pretty well even to today's switchers. Well, except for the handrails.

Doug

[tehachapifan]

Tehachapifan,

Did you use the 7440-4 wheelset?  That was the only one I could find for a Trix loco, but it wasn't specific on which Trix it would fit.  I have a similar project on my to-do list.

Thanks
Tom D

Yes, they are the 7440-4's and they are a perfect fit. When you're putting them in, you need to make sure that the insulated wheel goes on the same side as the wheel wipers.

This little loco is one of the better N scale locos of the early N scale days. In fact, it stands up pretty well even to today's switchers. Well, except for the handrails.

Doug

Agreed! The only minor issue with running is the relatively high starting and a jump start. I may try to install a LL SW1200 motor in it but am nervous about pulling and reinstalling worms, etc.

[nkalanaga]

You don't HAVE to take the trucks off to change the wheelsets.  The sideframes can be removed while on the loco, and the internal frame/gearbox is a solid casting, unlike most modern split-frame locos.

You also need to make sure the trucks go back on the same end they came off, or the loco will run backwards...  The insulated wipers are on the same rail on both trucks, rather than the trucks being identical, as on many models.

I have one of these switching my mining company, and it runs very nicely, although a flywheel would make it better.  As long as the rails are clean, it works.

[Spikre]

 
  didn't some of the Early Yugo locos have a similar set up ?
  but the gearbox was molded to the plastic frame and had the push pin ?
  thinking of the RSC-2 mainly,but would think others were similar ?
    Spikre
       

[peteski]

  didn't some of the Early Yugo locos have a similar set up ?
  but the gearbox was molded to the plastic frame and had the push pin ?
 

That is correct (regarding to the worm gear axle).  But instead of electric wipers in the trucks like Minitrix, those locos used wires soldered between trucks and chassis.

[SP-Wolf]

Here is one of mine:



Thanks,
Wolf

[nkalanaga]

The Minitrix electrical system is surprisingly easy to understand, and repair.  The hot side of the wheelsets connects to the metal truck frame, which is connected to the main frame by direct contact and the retaining pin, and then to the hot brush on the motor. 

The insulated wheels have wipers mounted on the plastic truck frame, insulated from the metal frame/gearbox, that rub a piece of PC board inside the fuel tank, under the motor, which has a wiper of its own to contact the PC board.  Thus, all of the insulated wheels have to be on the same side of the loco, and the trucks are not interchangeable.

On the F units, this made installing jumper wires very easy.  The frames will fit the B units either way, so for a 4-unit set, make sure the insulated wheels are on alternating sides.  For a 2-unit AA set, it's automatic, as the frames only fit the A units one way.  3-unit sets are a problem!

Solder one end of the jumper to the PC board, and route the wire up alongside the motor, then across the top of the frame, and down the end.  Solder a piece of brass sheet to the loose end, and jam that between the body and frame on the next unit, which has the insulated wheels on the other side.  You'll have one wire on each side of the coupler, looking just like and MU cable, and the units can easily be separated with no fancy plugs.  A 4-unit set will pull a long train, and with 32-wheel pickup, is almost immune to dirty track.  Before flywheels became common, that's what I ran my railroad with.  Wood stove smoke and cat hair didn't bother those things at all.

[nstars]

Agreed! The only minor issue with running is the relatively high starting and a jump start. I may try to install a LL SW1200 motor in it but am nervous about pulling and reinstalling worms, etc.

Main reason for the poor start is the low gearing used in the trucks. Installing a different motor won't help you much.

Marc

[mark.hinds]

Here is one of mine:

(image of tiger striped SP H-12-44 removed)

Thanks,
Wolf

Very nice!  MH

[tehachapifan]

Yes, very nice looking unit Wolf! Exceptional paint and decal work! Mine will be SP too but in scarlet and grey.

Marc, you may be right. I think I may stick with the stock motor anyway as it seems to be smoothing out more and more as I run it.