Flood Loads for Coal Hoppers???

[Kisatchie]

I have a bunch of Trainworx 100 ton hoppers with the "flood load" coal loads. But I'm modeling 1971, and I doubt if flood loading was in effect back then. Anyone know for sure?

Thanks.


Hmm... when I go to the
grocery, I have them
flood load my cart with
bananas...

[Mark5]

I'm thinking this started in some areas in the late 60s and expanded significantly through the 1970s but will need to dig around a little to be sure.

[Kisatchie]

I'm thinking this started in some areas in the late 60s and expanded significantly through the 1970s but will need to dig around a little to be sure.

Ah, if only I knew where to dig....


Hmm... I think I'll go
dig up some termites...

[nkalanaga]

It really started with unit trains, as there's little point in flood loading unless you have a lot of (nearly) identical cars to load at one time.  For 1971, unless you're modeling a very large mine, or consumer, you probably wouldn't see them.

It makes a very heavy car, but I made loads for my TW hoppers from real coal, using the TW loads.  Turn the load over and it's hollow.  Sand the sides down so that it slides in and out easily, then pile your choice of coal in the load, and glue it like ballast.  IN my case, I used some black craft paint as an undercoat, for something that will stick to the plastic a little better, smearing it on thick.  While it was wet, I poured the coal in, pressing the first layer into the paint, then building the heap.  Set it aside for a few minutes to give the paint time to start to dry.  Then use your favorite "wet water" and glue to set everything, just like ballasting track.  IT will take longer to dry than ballast, because you have a think pile, and all of the water has to evaporate through the top, but once it's hard you have a unique load, at very low cost.

Arizona Rock and Mineral has several grades of coal, from dust to lumps, other companies also sell it, or you can use N and HO ballast, painting it black after it dries.   Whatever you use, it's cheaper than buying new loads, and you can match the loads to spilled coal around your layout, if it's not just passing through.

[Mark5]

Unit trains go back to at least the 1920s (N&W, VGN, C&O). Southern ran their "silverside" gons in unit trains starting in the 60s.

Still need to dig around when I get a chance on when flood loading really kicked in.

Mark

[davefoxx]

It really started with unit trains, as there's little point in flood loading unless you have a lot of (nearly) identical cars to load at one time.  For 1971, unless you're modeling a very large mine, or consumer, you probably wouldn't see them.

It makes a very heavy car, but I made loads for my TW hoppers from real coal, using the TW loads.  Turn the load over and it's hollow.  Sand the sides down so that it slides in and out easily, then pile your choice of coal in the load, and glue it like ballast.  IN my case, I used some black craft paint as an undercoat, for something that will stick to the plastic a little better, smearing it on thick.  While it was wet, I poured the coal in, pressing the first layer into the paint, then building the heap.  Set it aside for a few minutes to give the paint time to start to dry.  Then use your favorite "wet water" and glue to set everything, just like ballasting track.  IT will take longer to dry than ballast, because you have a think pile, and all of the water has to evaporate through the top, but once it's hard you have a unique load, at very low cost.

Arizona Rock and Mineral has several grades of coal, from dust to lumps, other companies also sell it, or you can use N and HO ballast, painting it black after it dries.   Whatever you use, it's cheaper than buying new loads, and you can match the loads to spilled coal around your layout, if it's not just passing through.

If I understand correctly, you flip the plastic load over and fill up the inside?  Does that make the car top heavy and do the loads sit flat?  I just spread white glue on the top of the load and spread the "coal" on top.  It uses a lot less product, and it won't overweight the cars.  In my case, I used black craft sand as "coal" for these cars.  I like it, because the sand was very inexpensive for what probably amounts to a lifetime supply from the arts and crafts store.  It also has just enough sparkle to represent coal.

Before (looks like brownies baking):



After:



Hope this helps,
DFF

[Jesse6669]

Ah, if only I knew where to dig....

I agree it was probably late 60's, but as for hard-facts..  I'd bet back issues of Railway Age would have mention of it-- it would be an innovation in the industry.  Most university libraries have RA in their stacks (I know PSU did).

[nkalanaga]

DFF:  It raises the center of gravity, but I haven't had any derailment problems.  You probably run longer trains than I do, though. 

The loads sit fine, although they may not go in perfectly flat the first try.  Once they're in, they stay put.

Yours look good, but they're still "flood load style".  My mine uses a traditional tipple, which makes two or more humps per load, so piling the coal in the bottom works better for me.  It really doesn't take that much coal, so a bag will go a long ways.  If one wants to do it cheaper, fill the load part way with sand, then put the coal on top.  I've done that with Highball "Coal Dust", as thick piles of that don't absorb water well. 

I'm still using the mortar sand I bought years ago for $20.00/ton.  The dealer's only scale was designed for weighing trucks, so we estimated that my box would probably hold about 80 lbs, and settled on a dollar.  It goes under a lot of my scenery, with the finish dirt on top, to save the good stuff, and make gluing easier.