Basic Question about Assembling Structures

[Noah Lane]

It is very common to see guys assemble the walls of a structure kit -prior to adding window frames, details, etc.

I get that this is done for a spatial analyses of the structure in its location on the layout.

So my question is: are the walls just kind of "spot welded" with a less powerful glue, and then taken apart for full build out, to add  windows/details? Or do you typically just build out the kit with the main walls glued together?

Thanks

Noah

[peteski]

Whenever possible, if the add-on items are different color than the walls, I paint the items separately and add them after the walls are assembled.   But not always, it depeneds on the specific building.

If I add windows and blinds to the pre-painted walls before assembly I have to be extra careful not to have any glue ooze out at the wall joints.  If I assemble the walls without details I can the spray paint the entire structure. This will hide any glue stains.

Like I said, my assembly methods change from model to model.

As far as mockups go, I simply use masking tape to hold the walls together.  Easier and less permanent than using glue, then breaking the joints.

[mrhedley]

Gotta agree with peteski, assembly procedures will vary from kit to kit.  DPM's for example have most of the detail molded in place.  Their standard windows are sheet acetate, so it's possible to fit up the walls first, spray bomb the whole structure, paint out the details (window and door frames, sills, etc.) and then glue the windows to the inside.  Not necessary to do it this way, but painting the assembled structure provides better results than painting the walls separately before assembling them.  The paint will make it's way into the joints making a better looking model.  Many Walthers kits require much more assembly, so it's recommended to read the assembly instructions first before deviating.  One suggestion, look for a machinists square or a right angle clamp for best results in joining corner assemblies.

[Noah Lane]

Gotcha. That makes sense. As you guys probably know, I'm still learning some of these things (though, I don't think you can ever stop learning in this hobby).

Some of the tasks next in line for me are constructing these two laser kits (below):

MTL Cannery


N-Scale Architect Long Valley Lumber -not gonna lie. this one is rather intimidating!


One of the few Laser kits that I've done is the MTL Waterfront Hotel. It came out fine, but the kit was super simple.


Any words of encouragement are appreciated!

[JMaurer1]

Most well designed kits are pretty simple.

Your hotel looks great by the way.

[Santa Fe Guy]

For the laser kit you have shown I would paint first with very light coats (from a airbrush if pos) and use a solvent based paint to avoid warping the timber. Just mask off each area that is a different colour.
Rod.

[mrhedley]

Still Learning?  I'd say that from the pictures you've posted you are a post graduate student.  Of course, there's no end to the learning opportunities this hobby offers.

[KenRay Models]

I am a huge fan of the jig for assembly. It can be pretty basic, depending on the footprint of the building you're putting together. I've used a lot of things, but one of the more dependable jigs that will adjust readily is 2X8 Lego blocks. Ken uses the large green mat as a base for when he's making molds, but the basic 2X8s can be locked together to ensure very square corners and a lot of stability in building multiple storey buildings.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

When mocking stuff up, I usually just use tape:

[Pomperaugrr]

When mocking stuff up, I usually just use tape:

+1

[Noah Lane]

Thanks for the tips, fellas.

@Santa Fe Guy - forgive me of my ignorance, but what is "considered solvent based paint?" I'm assuming that's like oil/lacquer? So, basic paints from Michael's would do?  Currently, I mostly have acrylic colors in my stash (Floquil/Model Master/generic/etc), as it seemed that's what everyone usually uses. But I get that it's water-based.  Also, I likely won't have an airbrush for the building of these kits. However, I'd like to purchase one someday. Would it be preferable for me to use spray cans over brush?

@mrhedley - I appreciate the kind words! I've taken my sweet time building this layout (2 years now!), and 80% of the reason the layout is as good as it is, is because of the help I've received on forums. But there are a several areas of the hobby
 
@KenRay Models -  Yeah, I've got magnetic jigs from Micro Mark. I just haven't used them much yet.

[wazzou]

I built that cannery.  I deviated from the kit instructions pretty much at the outset and made a lot of changes and modifications.
Let me know if you need some help.

[peteski]

Without going into too much detail, all paints consist of solvent, binder and pigment. Solvent evaporates and the binder and pigment remain.   What modelers call "solvent-based paints"  are the paints which use organic-based solvents. Things like petroleum distillates, acetone, xylene, etc.  Floquil model RR paints, Scalecoat, or the old Testors PLA enamels in little bottles are such paints.  Modelers often call these paints "lacquers".

When the water-based-solvents paints were introduced into the hobby, modelers started calling them water-based acrylic enamels (and I also see them called just "acrylic enamels" or "acrylics").  Those paints (such as Vallejo, Model Master Acryl, Polly S and Polly Scale, and many more) usually use water-based solvent (which can also contain alcohol or other chemicals), acrylic binder and pigment.

I don't like the generalizations we used in our hobbies for describing those paints.    That is because organic-solvent-based paints can be enamels or lacquers.  Also, acrylic binder can be used in both water-based and organic-solvent-based paints. Again, modelers make another generalization.

Just to add, the difference between a lacquer and enamel paints is that lacquer paint dries (hardens) simply through the evaporation of the solvent.  But in enamels the solvent first evaporates, leaving still somewhat soft binder, then there is a chemical reaction which takes a fairly long time which changes the chemical property of the binder. So it takes much longer to fully dry (harden).

When trying to remove lacquer paints, simply using the original solvent will dissolve the binder again., But enamels cannot be re-dissolved. The stripping solution will simply soften the enamel binder and it will peel off the painted object (in pieces).

[Santa Fe Guy]

Noah. Peteski has pretty much summed it up.
Acrylic paints if not applied correctly to the material used in laser kits can be too wet and take too long to dry which tends to allow the parts to warp.
If you are not close to obtaining an air brush then spray cans are a good option. I would use Tamiya spray cans. They have a fine spray and will dry quickly on the laser kit material. Another suggestion is to spray both sides to avoid moisture getting into the material. This will avoid warping now and later on. Even after you have painted it and it is dry I would still add a weight to the painted part to keep it flat.
Have fun.
Rod.

[wazzou]

Something I haven't seen mentioned, though I think is important is to use strip wood to brace the insides of the structure walls.  This is easy and will take the worries of warped walls away.  Walls can still warp despite painting both inside and outside plus I don't like weighting my walls down after freshly applying paint.  I brace styrene walls during construction too which assures squared construction.