Convert bachman H16-44 to dummy

[kirk59]

Have any of you done this.  Please describe your methods. Tks Kirk

[Mark5]

Havent done this on this loco, but in general I disassemble the trucks and remove the gears.

[wm3798]

I didn't use the Bachmann frame.  I couldn't get the wheels to roll freely at all.  too much friction.  I ended up modifying the shell and putting it on an older Atlas VO1000 frame to make this slug.  I kept the track pick ups to get some extra contact and hardwired it to the mother BL-2.  Probably ended up shortening the shell to fit.  Can't recall precisely.

Lee

[Spikre]

 
   don't have the N H16-44,but do have an HO version.
  have been thinking of turning it into a Dummy for awhile.
  the model is constructed similar to the N Bachmans with
  a split frame.
   it never ran well,a condition found with all the HO Spectrums
  or Bachman Plus locos bought in the 90s.
  by the 2000s woke up and stopped buying any powered units
  by Bachman in any scale.
   the N H16-44 should be honored to be turned into a Dummy
  unit and left on Your Layout.
      taking out the Motor and Worm gears should work,removing
  all the Truck gears should be Optional.
       Spikre
         

[Catt]

I haven't had any problems with my Bachmanns ,but then I don't try to destroy them in the first place.

[Spikre]

 
  Johnathan,
   since when is taking a loco out of its box,placing it on the
  track,and running it trying to destroy it ?
  I'm not Big Al !!
  I've tried many things to try to get the Spectrum/Bachman
  diesels to run here,but NOTHING works.
  all have been purchased new,and all run as bad as the Athearn
  GP30 I had in 1963.although they don't throw or shed drive
  parts like the GP30 liked to do,they just slow down and come
  to a stop eventually.
  this includes a 1st run C40-8,EMD Demo 1st run GP30,and the
  H16-44, 2 motor GE 44 Tonner,and 2 motor GE 70 tonner.
  the GEs smoke like a Steamer after about 5 minutes of running.
  one exception was a mid run Plus F7B in EL that thought it was
  an Atlas Kato unit and still runs like one.
  only had a 1st run N Bachman B&O Docksider from about 1969.
  it ran well in the 70s,but last inspection showed a gooey mess
  after being stored a decade or so.
      Spikre
       

   

[Rich_S]

I'll agree, the Bachmann H16-44 is a real coffee grinder. I'm not sure what is going on with my H16-44, but it tends to burn up a decoder about every 3 to 6 months.



Another suggestion can be found in this post by Steve.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=35482.0

If you still want to go the dummy option, then removing the motor and worm gears would be a start.

[brokemoto]

I have the Bachpersonn FM road switcher.  Mine runs allright.   What is wrong with the thing that anyone would want to repower it?   

I did follow the link, but there is nothing there specific that tells me what to look out for down the road.

Someone please tell me, what is wrong with the B-mann FM roadswitcher?  Does the GP-7 show the same problems?  I have one Bachmann GP-7 that runs the same as the FM.  Nothing wrong with either one.

Mine do not have the decoders.  I do not use DCC, so I do not have the problems that Rich_S does.

[thomasjmdavis]

Another suggestion can be found in this post by Steve.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=35482.0

After reading these threads, I think I have a much easier solution:

1) Choose prototype with phase 1 or phase 2 H-16-44 (My understanding is that the Phase 1 has Loewy designed windows and other bits, Phase 2 lacks the embellishments and has squared off windows, and Phase 3 has some differences in terms of louvers and such- is that more or less correct?)

2) Buy appropriate model made by Atlas

3) Paint as needed

[OldEastRR]

Funny how experiences with N locos is a lot like those with automobiles. "I had a Ford once, complete piece of junk, always had something going wrong. I bought a VW, a great car, and I've bought only VWs ever since."
"My Ford runs sweet, never a problem. I'll buy Fords until I die."

[Rich_S]

After reading these threads, I think I have a much easier solution:

1) Choose prototype with phase 1 or phase 2 H-16-44 (My understanding is that the Phase 1 has Loewy designed windows and other bits, Phase 2 lacks the embellishments and has squared off windows, and Phase 3 has some differences in terms of louvers and such- is that more or less correct?)

2) Buy appropriate model made by Atlas

3) Paint as needed

Thomas, If Atlas made a Phase 3 FM H16-44 I'd purchase one. Atlas only produces the Phase 1 and Phase 2 models.  The phase 3 FM H 16-44 does not have the step down walkway on the long hood and has a redesigned radiator section.

Phase 1 & 2 with step down walkway and original radiator section.



Phase 3.

[thomasjmdavis]

Rich,

I apologize, I only meant to inject a bit of levity, not target you or anyone else on the thread. I go though a lot of this myself. I still have some Bachmann F units (the so-called "Spectrum") plying the rails of my railroad among an army of Kato Fs.  Mine run OK, but the shells are, well, what they are, and I'm trying to figure out how to replace them with Kato or IM shells.  Also have a partly finished FP-7 with an IM shell over an MP chassis (I just could not bring myself to pay well over $100 on eBay for an IM chassis).  Being one of those guys who goes to an auction to buy the box of junk parts and busted locos, I seem to run into a lot of "what can I make out of this" projects.  My biggest annoyance is that I found I can't drop an IM F shell over a Kato F chassis (at one point, I had several of each)- it's almost like IM made their shell a millimeter too small on purpose, just to keep us from doing that.  Well, those of us who don't have a milling machine.

I realized while writing this that I may be able to resolve a couple issues by pulling the gears and pickups out of the Spectrum Fs and doing whatever grinding is needed to make the IM shells fit over those, and end up with several extra B units.

Truth is, with the availability of shells from IM and Atlas (and Atlas had them on sale recently) and Kato, I wonder if there is not some potential for a shapeways designer or a caster to make dummy frames and trucks- rather like Con-Cor in the 70s- where the B unit trucks were not powered and just screwed in place like a freight car truck.

I am a firm believer that the only way to get a manufacturer to make something is to spend 6 months kitbashing or scratchbuilding one.  My experience has been that just about the time the last decal sets, the announcement of the new product will appear in your email.

Tom D

[kirk59]

Why does he want to dummy the engine you ask.  One of the copper tabs on the light board is broken.  I can put up with the coffee grinder but for me its unacceptable to have to nudge an engine every time you stop to get running again, hence dummying up.
thanks Kirk

[Rich_S]

Why does he want to dummy the engine you ask.  One of the copper tabs on the light board is broken.  I can put up with the coffee grinder but for me its unacceptable to have to nudge an engine every time you stop to get running again, hence dummying up.
thanks Kirk

Kirk, Why not just solder a jumper wire in the place of the broken copper tab? To be honest, the first thing I did with my Bachmann H16-44 was to discard the light board. I hard wired my decoder and added my own LED's to the locomotive. Just a suggestion? 

[Catt]

Isn't the mech in the H16-44 pretty much the same as the one used for the B-30-7s? Reason I'm asking is I know of several people who have had problems with their H16-44s but my B-30s just keep right on rolling along.I guess what I am saying is if the mechs are they same (or close) why are the GEs still rolling quietly along while the H16-44s are committing N scale suicide?