Killashandra - Irish Nn3

[Chris333]

Pop the flat sheet in the scanner and make as many as you like.

[nkalanaga]

Sure.  Print it on smooth cardstock, glue it with plain white glue, and it should be as good as the metal version.  It wouldn't have the etched springs and axle boxes, but Marklin chassis parts would probably work better anyway.

[Chris333]

Or import, trace, and etch.   

[VonRyan]

Pop the flat sheet in the scanner and make as many as you like.

Or import, trace, and etch.   

If my scanner worked, that'd be a great idea. That is, assuming that I can do the tracing in Paint.

[chicken45]

So, when it comes to painting brass, I'm a noob. I don't know what I'm doing. I pained a few brass kits and I don't know if they will hold up over time. Anyways, I didn't etch them in vinegar nor did I bake the paint.

On a related note, I soaked a FUD kit with glued on brass bits for a little longer than the instructions said to, and they all fell off. I don't know if it was a function of the FUD, the brass, or the CA.
Ideally, you would solder the whole thing. I didn't have the skill for all that at the time.

[Missaberoad]

You could buy a cheaper brass kit (or pull something out of the stash) to practice on before tackling this important one...
Even if it winds up in the scrap heap you've developed your skills for this model...

At least that's my plan when I get around to butchering the finer side of soldering 

[CNR5529]

You could buy a cheaper brass kit (or pull something out of the stash) to practice on before tackling this important one...
Even if it winds up in the scrap heap you've developed your skills for this model...

At least that's my plan when I get around to butchering the finer side of soldering 

This!

My first brass kit was a micron art hand car. If I screwed it up it wasn't much of a loss, but it turned out to be fairly simple to put together. That gave me a ton of confidence to try other more complex kits.

[nkalanaga]

Josh:  I would suspect the CA.  While it sets by absorbing water, I don't know that it's intended to be soaked, or how it reacts to acids.

Trivia:  The stuff was invented LONG ago for surgical glue:  It's intended for gluing wounds together when stitching is impractical, such as battlefields or remote sites.  That's why it glues fingers better than models.  And, yes, the basic commercial grade stuff is safe to use for that, although I wouldn't try the fancy gels or thick varieties.

[peteski]

Josh:  I would suspect the CA.  While it sets by absorbing water, I don't know that it's intended to be soaked, or how it reacts to acids.

To be more specific, " cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerises in the presence of water (specifically hydroxide ions), forming long, strong chains, joining the bonded surfaces together."  This, and lots more useful info about CA is in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

As far as the brass model goes, I would recommend soldering, not CA glue.

[VonRyan]

So if I'm to solder this, I guess I should probably change out the black flaking tip on my soldering iron for a fresh one.
And I have a roll of fine Kester 60/40 rosin core solder.

Am I going to need anything else if I'm to have a chance at completing this successfully?

[Philip H]

Paste flux.

[peteski]

Yes Cody, a new clean tip in your iron is very important. And a damp sponge to wipe the tip on (to clean it) right after and before every time you use it is also important  This eventually becomes an automatic action on your part.

60/40 solder is a good general-purpose solder.  But if the item I'm building will require several rounds of soldering (like large sub-assemblies, then soldering those sub-assemblies together, then adding smaller details on those sub-assemblies) I use 3 solders with different melting point. Silver-bearing solder (highest melting temp.), 60/40 (medium melting temp.) and TIX soft solder (low melting temp.)  The initial sub-assemblies are soldered using silver-bearing solder, then are then joined using 60/40 and any small details are added using TIX solder.  That (and careful and quick soldering) minimizes chances of the previously-soldered joints coming apart.

Parts need to be super-clean for for easy soldering.  Some etched frets still have the photoresist-coating on them. That should be removed using lacquer thinner.  Scuffing the solder joint areas with some 400 or 600 wet/dry sandpaper also wouldn't hurt (but not required if the parts are clean and bright).

For most of the major non-electrical joints I use TIX liquid flux.  It is acidic (zinc chloride) but it really helps in making good solder joints with minimal amount of solder.

Put the parts to be soldered together (and find a way to hold them steady then brush on the TIX flux.  Then I put a small amount of solder of the iron's tip and touch that to the joint area. It might take couple of seconds for the heat to transfer to the brass parts. As they heat up you will see the flux discolor (clean) the metal. Then as the area get even hotter (to the melting point of the solder), the solder will melt and start spreading out (like by capillary action) into the joint area. Once that competes you can take the tip off the area and let things cool down.

If you ever watched copper water pipes beinf sweat-soldered, this is very similar. The cleaned metal pipes are fluxed and assembled, then heated. Then solder is slowly added (as a little goes long way) and it spreads all around the joint aided by the flux.

I wouldn't expect you mastering this on your first solder joint, but I think with some practice you can handle it.

BTW, none of this really belongs in your layout-construction thread. 

[chicken45]

You should ask Bob Gilmore about flux.

[robert3985]

You should ask Bob Gilmore about flux.

Flux?.... did someone say "flux"????   

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[GimpLizard]

If my scanner worked, that'd be a great idea. That is, assuming that I can do the tracing in Paint.

Throw it in the copy machine, and photo copy it to clear acetyl. Use the acetyl copy as the etching mask.