Squadron putties

[Joetrain59]

Hi,
 I had a tube of the green stuff. Went to use it the other night, it was very dry, hard to dispense, and like play-doh. Got a new tube, same situation. Is there a way to thin it? And what's the difference between green and white Squadron putties?
 Thanks,
 Joe D

[robwill84]

Sometimes the first bit to get squeezed out is a bit thick, but its not thin stuff. Play-doh seems like too thick consistency, but it should be pretty stiff. Only diff in the white and green is color. Military modelers like green.

[Baldylox]

White is a finer grit and both can be cut with lacquer thinner.

I actually mix my white with liquid cement and very fine shavings from spent spruces for a nice paste.

[Greyryder]

White is a finer grit and both can be cut with lacquer thinner.

I actually mix my white with liquid cement and very fine shavings from spent spruces for a nice paste.

Oak is too hard?

[Baldylox]

Oak is too hard?

I guess ipad doesn't like sprue as a word lol

[Bsklarski]

When I apply it on model kits, I wet my finger in rubbing alcohol and smooth it out for less sanding later.

[wazzou]

I prefer Bondo Spot Putty.  IMO, the Squadron Putty shrinks.

[peteski]

I avoid putties like a plague!  I hate applying them - I hate sanding.  I also hate the shrinkage! If I need things filled or smoothed, I use various viscosity CA glue (and accelerator), and sometimes epoxies.  If I have no other choice but to use a putty, I usually use Bondo urethane automotive body filler.  The 2-part one. At least that way there is negligible shrinkage, and it hardens quickly.

But I can confirm that the Squadron putties could be thinned with lacquer thinner.

[Joetrain59]

Thank you Gentlemen, it's been an education.
 Joe D

[rsn48]

Bondo can crack, I know I've had to cover areas several times to fill in the cracks, eventually it stops cracking.

[peteski]

Bondo can crack, I know I've had to cover areas several times to fill in the cracks, eventually it stops cracking.

I never had any problems with the 2-part stuff. It hardens by chemical reaction, not by solvent evaporation, it doesn't shrink, so it shouldn't crack. I even used to fix a wooden basement window sill (on the outside of the house).  The Bondo didn't crack. Heck, it doesn't crack on real cars, when used as a filler.  I wonder if in your case it was contraction of the object it was applied to?

[railnerd]

Is there a way to thin it? And what's the difference between green and white Squadron putties?

Bob Hundman gave a styrene scratch building clinic back in 2000, and recommended dispense squadron white into MEK and keep it as a loose slurry that he used as a thick filler.  I've personally not done that.

Prefer the white to the green myself.

Like wet glued ballast, the less you mess with it the better off you will be— and yes, you have to like sanding.

[DKS]

My preference is Squadron white. I never thin it; I like the control of the thick paste. I've tried Tamiya UV putty, but IMO it's too thin. On occasion I'll use 2-part 5-minute epoxy.

[LV LOU]

Bondo can crack, I know I've had to cover areas several times to fill in the cracks, eventually it stops cracking.

Any evaporation type filler will shrink.I've used them all,for small fills,like a railing hole,I use CA with accelerator.Big stuff,I fill as much as possible with a fitted piece of plastic glued in with lacquer thinner.The only actual putty I use is Tamiya metal filled.It has aluminum as the base filler,which doesn't shrink anywhere near as much as Bondo,[not two part..] Squadron,ETC..It sands beautifully..Actually,I wouldn't use Squadron on anything,I think it's garbage,shrinks like dried up bread..I may consider using it on Balsa airplanes,only because it's light..Two part Bondo is an excellent filler,but mixing small amounts can be iffy..No shrinkage,instant hardening.

[randgust]

I still keep Squadron green, because it sands smooth and bonds really well.  White is kind of garbage, just doesn't seem to want to stick to much of anything and has very little strength.  Biggest problem with the green is because it is green - you end up having to prime over top of it to make sure it doesn't show through paint.   

For doing molding masters that have to be smooth, I do putty and then soak it with thin ACC after it hardens, that really makes it permanent.

If you need a white putty, try Tamiya.  It works quite well with resin and I've kind of made it my new standard.  Not sure what solvent is in there but it really bonds.