N scale 2900 Class ATSF Northern Build

[Norway2112]

I get that, but technically you could reguage the Kato wheels to fit the Bachmann trucks without the spacers.  But I imagine that would make the Kato wheels too wide then.

Jason

The problem isn't the gauge of the wheels, but rather the actual length of the axle the wheels are attached to.  For example, Fox Valley Models sels different length axles for their replacement metal wheels.  All of them are the same gauge, even though the axle width is different to fit different truck frames. 

[superturbine]

Jason,
if you had a small arbor press, you could simply push the Kato half-axles out slightly further out.  I found a small press in an electronic surplus store for about $20.  Harbor Freight also sells arbor presses (but they are slightly larger).  my press comes in very handy for taking worms off the motor shafts, and all sorts of wheel/axle work.

Thanks Pete,

I probably did not think outside the box enough.  Pressing the axle further out is a good suggestion.   I suppose once you have carefully done the first truck and measured the axle length you could simple count the revolutions on the press and copy that on each wheel set.  I will do that on another truck set and re-post.

[superturbine]

Here is a simple wheel/gear press for $20 that I think will work.

http://www.micromark.com/wheel-and-gear-remover,9767.html

[peteski]

Jason,
I use a bit more brutish tool.


My press is much smaller and finer, but this one would work too

I build a fixture to make my job easier:  A piece of brass or aluminum with a hole in it. It is thicker than the distance the axle extends out of the wheel.  Then I use a piece of brass tube to control how much I will push the axle out.  I then put the wheel, face down, on the piece of metal with the hole in it. I then slide the brass tube over the inside part of the axle (facing up).  Small length of the axle protrudes over the tube's end.  Then I use the press to push on the protruding part of the axle until I hit the brass tube. I hope that this description is clear enough.

[superturbine]

It took a week to get the axle press from Micromark, but I am now back on track.
Pushing the axles out has proven to provide a much better solution, thanks Pete.  I use this particular press because its cheap and easy to precisely measure and repeat (especially for those doing this build).  Each axle with an axle point power pick up strip installed is pushed out 3/4 of a turn.  The middle axle power pick out has been eliminated due to the offset of the pick up from the trucks bearing location.  So only axel 1 and 3 of each truck pick up power, but its plenty reliable.  The axles without power pick up are pushed one full turn or close to the stock axle point which I measured at approximately 14.35 MM

[peteski]

Excellent Jason - I'm glad that my method worked out for you (even if you used daintier tools). 

[superturbine]

There are multiple ways to build the tender.  On this one I elected simple bore out channels for the wiring leaving post to attach the trucks.  To install sound, the stock Bachmann tender frame will be needed and the tender will ne cast differently.
The tender truck power pick up are wiring  together.

For weight in the tender and Loco I used Tungsten weights for wooden derby cars bought at Hobby Lobby (use you 40% off on line coupon).  The LED is from Jim Hines of Richmond Controls

Once the engine is tied to the tender its time to take it for good long test run.


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works.

[RWCJr]

Ah, what a great thread to enjoy with the mornings first cup of coffee!! Looking soooooooo good Jason!!
Robert

[superturbine]

[arbomambo]

BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[RWCJr]

Great 2926 video poetry in motion!!

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks Jason,  what a fun video! Looks like you're getting hooked too....
Otto K., Santa Fey all the Way!

[superturbine]

History of the 2900 class and 2926-

[RWCJr]

Very enjoyable 20 minutes!! The work required for restoration appears mind-blowing in material, labor and the vast planning. Thanks for posting.
Robert

[superturbine]

My work is going a little slower due to getting out castings and working on other new boilers.  But now with the additional inspiration provided from youtube, I've made a little more progress.
Here we see the drifting valves being added atop the cylinders.

Additional piping added to the right and left side of the engine, still more work to go



Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works