Author Topic: Somebody Probably Brought This Up Already, But...  (Read 1122 times)

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kelticsylk

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Somebody Probably Brought This Up Already, But...
« on: September 01, 2013, 07:56:01 PM »
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Just some ideas to present for general perusal...
I've been thinking about repowering/upgrading/whatever options for my Trix steamers. For the K4s I used a link I keep for Kato Japan http://www.e-katomodels2.com/ I looked for the drive for the C55 so I don't have to buy an entire locomotive. While the C55 is not available, the C57 is. The drivers are totally wrong but it does give me an idea of what a C55 drive might cost...5,250 yen or about $54 US at leasst half the cost of the entire loco.

For $41 I can get a D51 drive for a H class 2-8-0. Throw in another $3 for the lead truck. Haven't checked driver size, but performance is a higher priority. No doubt the cylinders are wrong but perhaps they could be swapped for Mikado parts (albeit very carefully).

As near as I can tell there are no Japanese 2-10-0's to improve the I1. Maybe a modified 2-8-0 could be used.

I also have a link for Micro Ace http://www.microace-arii.co.jp/ Did see a C59 and a C60 (once again wrong drivers) but cannot find the parts department, so I have no idea what the costs are. I cannot read Japanese and apparently neither can Google.

Finally, there is Tomix...http://www.tomytec.co.jp/index.htm Still browsing this one, haven't found the steam or parts sections yet. I did, however, find the cute little anime figurines. Nothing like a few of them to dress up the train room.

dougnelson

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Re: Somebody Probably Brought This Up Already, But...
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2013, 08:11:26 PM »
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Frank-  your Japanese is better then mine.  Someone else may respond with more specifics, but if you search previous posts regarding repowering the Trix K4 you will probably find a wealth of answers and opinions.  This topic arises regularly.  $54 for the drive mechanism sounds like a pretty good deal, especially if you can find a C55.

Doug Nelson

VonRyan

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Re: Somebody Probably Brought This Up Already, But...
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2013, 08:17:29 PM »
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For an H10sa, your best bet is a Bachmann 2-8-0, either the DCC-Ready version (second production run (best) or later), or the DCC-equipped version.
A modified K4 shell with a B6 cab and a GHQ urethane L1 tender casting and you'll be in business.

I was going to do one, but at the time all the great-priced 2-8-0s were nowhere in sight, and of course after I buy a brass H10w, the Bachmann 2-8-0s reappear at the good prices.
I'll probably get back to it some day, but it isn't priority right now.


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pjm20

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Re: Somebody Probably Brought This Up Already, But...
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2013, 09:03:18 PM »
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A Kato/Micro Ace Type 9600 matches an H6. A Bachmann Connie matches the H8/9/10. Micro Ace makes a 2-10-4, but the drivers are way to small for an I1.
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kelticsylk

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Re: Somebody Probably Brought This Up Already, But...
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2013, 10:38:58 PM »
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For an H10sa, your best bet is a Bachmann 2-8-0, either the DCC-Ready version (second production run (best) or later), or the DCC-equipped version.
A modified K4 shell with a B6 cab and a GHQ urethane L1 tender casting and you'll be in business.

I'm actually thinking of using parts from a Mikado I have, not sure of the make but it's not Kato. I should measure the drivers, but as long as it resembles a late H I'm willing to go with it. I had thought folks were using the entire B6 shell. Didn't know about the boiler. I believe I have a spare K4 shell. Great idea on the L1 Tender, hadn't thought of that.

Doug,
I did read the "All inclusive K4 thread" and have thought about the various approaches. Budgetary concerns will affect the final decision. That's why I'm avoiding using things like a whole C55 or coreless motors.