Author Topic: Kato Paint Removal  (Read 1343 times)

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BCR751

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Kato Paint Removal
« on: February 20, 2013, 12:49:41 PM »
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In anticipation of purchasing one of the soon-to-be-released Kato SD40-2's, which I will have to repaint, what is the best method for removing the factory paint?  I'm sure this has been talked about previously but I can't find the reference to it.  I have checked with various sources and it appears that Kato is not going to produce an undecorated version of this one.

Doug

nightmare0331

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2013, 01:14:04 PM »
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Kato did add a run of undecorated SD40-2 early units (176-4830) a few days ago.

As for removing factory Kato paint, get a tupperware container, fill it with 91% isoproyl rubbing alcohol (70% won't work), let it sit for a day or two, put a set of latex gloves on and scrub away with a toothbrush (either trim the bristles down on a toothbrush so they're stiffer or find an M16 rifle cleaning brush...it looks like a double ended toothbrush but the bristles are much stiffer).  I use round wooden toothpicks to get into cracks that the toothbrush can't get into since you can scrape but won't mar the plastic.  Then, before the alcohol sludge can dry, wash in warm soapy water.  Let dry, redetail, bead blast, paint.  viola.

Hope this helps!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

BCR751

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2013, 01:29:44 PM »
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I checked the Kato website and didn't see any reference to an undec. unit.  Where did you see that info?

Doug

Philip H

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2013, 01:31:37 PM »
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I checked the Kato website and didn't see any reference to an undec. unit.  Where did you see that info?

Doug

+1
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ns737

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2013, 02:18:03 PM »
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what i do is heat a bowl of water to a boil in the microwave. then put my bottle of 91% in the bowl on the table let it heat up. then poor the 91% in a deep tray, then i put my disassembled shell in the tray and let it sit for 10 min. then i use a tooth brush and clean the paint off in the 91% . i will have a undec. shell in about 15 min. tops.

craigolio1

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2013, 04:36:16 PM »
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Badger sandblaster.  Easiest method ever.  Havn't used anything else since I started using it.

Craig

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2013, 08:12:48 AM »
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Badger sandblaster.  Easiest method ever.  Havn't used anything else since I started using it.

Craig

+1 - I have a mate that has one and it's easy and fast, plus not messing with chemicals and all the "goo" that you get.....
Model railroading isn't saving my life, but it's providing me moments of joy not normally associated with my current situation..... Train are good!

Mark5

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2013, 08:45:36 AM »
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So, if I only have one Kato shell that needs stripping, I need to drop $50+ for a Badger sandblaster to get the paint off?  :P

Makes sense if Kato makes a lot of models that you need though.

Scottl

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2013, 09:02:10 AM »
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I use 99% isopropyl alchohol, an old toothbrush, and a mason jar...

nightmare0331

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BCR751

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2013, 01:39:34 PM »
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http://www.katousa.com/N/SD40-2/index.html
Top listing.
Enjoy!

Kelley.

Yup.  Just saw it myself.  Good news indeed.  Has anyone tried Easy Lift Off (brake fluid) to remove the paint?  Seems I've heard the Kato plastic doesn't like it.  Just curious.

Doug

nightmare0331

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2013, 03:05:55 PM »
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Yup.  Just saw it myself.  Good news indeed.  Has anyone tried Easy Lift Off (brake fluid) to remove the paint?  Seems I've heard the Kato plastic doesn't like it.  Just curious.

Doug

Don't....Kato's plastic is tempramental.  I experimented a long time ago with ELO (it destroyed an SD45 body shell...made it brittle and cracked) and Pine Sol (destroyed a SD40-2 snoot shell...made it extremely soft and years later still smells like Pine Sol).  Brake fluid is great for old school HO Athearn shells, but that's about it, and quite honestly, I doubt I'd use it for that anymore.

Of course, mileage and experiences may vary, but I've found rubbing alcohol works well for me.  I tend to bead blast before painting for paint adhesion after stripping in alcohol, but that's my own personal preference.

Hope this helps!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

craigolio1

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2013, 05:49:05 PM »
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So, if I only have one Kato shell that needs stripping, I need to drop $50+ for a Badger sandblaster to get the paint off?  :P

Makes sense if Kato makes a lot of models that you need though.

I thought the same until I bought one.  If you are willing to strip one brand new loco, I'm willing to bet it won't be your last.  Add up what one spends on ELO, rubbing alcohol, Pine-Sol, or what ever else you may choose to use.  No one ever ruined a model with this tool.  Say the same for brake fluid or Pine-Sol.  You can re-use the aluminum oxide that the unit comes with, or get the bigger tub and re-use that.  No more cost after that.  Plus this thing can do very precise work.  For example I did an Intermountain SD40-2w in the Expo '86 scheme.  It was factory painted CN.  I masked the front end and roof, and sand blasted only the area that needed to be repainted white.  Afterwards all other paint and detail was preserved.  You can prep plastic handrails with it and then they take paint.  You can prep metal surfaces to remove oxidation.  You can frost the bathroom windows on your passenger cars.  You can remove just lettering and not paint once you get good at it.  You can fade lettering or partially remove it.  Believe me, you will come up with many more uses than just stripping your one Kato loco.  It is one of the better investments I've made.

2c

Craig

mr_mike_m

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Re: Kato Paint Removal
« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2013, 07:20:22 PM »
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Just did two Kato F40PH shells via the 92% alcohol method, and it works great. Black paint needed a little more soak time, and more toothbrush scrubbing. My only cost was for the alcohol. I had a plastic Chinese food container and old toothbrush already on hand. +1 using the toothpicks for stubborn details.