PRR DB4 containers Who wants to make'em?

[Alaska Railroader]

Look at the horizontal rivet strip mid way up the container sides, then look at the prototype, and hit me back.

I'd like to see someone else make these more realistic than David's. Then we can compare apples to apples. They will mostly be riding in a gon anyway. Counting rivets, or measuring them, is what drives me nuts in modeling small scale trains. Kinda takes the fun out of modeling, especially when you KNOW you cannot make it with the exact amount of rivets or the exact size of rivets anyway.

[Sokramiketes]

I'd like to see someone else make these more realistic than David's. Then we can compare apples to apples. They will mostly be riding in a gon anyway. Counting rivets, or measuring them, is what drives me nuts in modeling small scale trains. Kinda takes the fun out of modeling, especially when you KNOW you cannot make it with the exact amount of rivets or the exact size of rivets anyway.

You've entirely missed the point.  I never said they weren't realistic.  I never said they were bad.  I never said the rivets weren't the right size or were the wrong number.   I just said the decal film is showing in the mold and that decal film can be sanded. (Not everyone knows decals can be sanded.)

I feel like I'm on an alien planet here lately.

[wcfn100]

I feel like I'm on an alien planet here lately.

Lol, no *****.

Jason

[peteski]

Guys, it's decal film not rivet counting.  It would take 5 mins to sand the film to blend the edge and then it wouldn't be carried through in the castings.  If you notice, DKS already spent a lot more time fixing the chain rollers, so he's interested in a good master.

Wouldn't sanding the decal film (which I have never even attempted to do) also sand down the raised rivets?  You do realize that the width of the clear film (with the rivets in the middle) is probably around 1/32" wide?  So the edge of clear film is around 1/64th from the raised rivets.  Do you care to demonstrate to me just how you would go about sanding the edge of that decal film without sanding the rivets off? 

I've worked with some small details and I'm always willing to learn new techniques.

[up1950s]

Mike , if you were able to sand down the edge without causing more damage than good , the rivets would be on a bulge and seen if caught in the correct light . It might be easier to inlay the rivet decal . Either way is the end really worth all that effort . If so , maybe you could make a new master for the Master to cast .

A foil wrapper with the horiz rivets embossed from the inside then glued to a form . The rivet rows on the corners could be the decal strips as they do have an edge . The difficulty of lam'ing a foil around a block without frigging up the expected end result is too hard IMO .

[chicken45]

Is it the decal film, though? I got eyes like a BAMF and just took a loop to my own passenger car rivet job. My rivets were applied on flat styrene and drowned with Micro Sol (red label). I can BARELY see the decal film with a LOOP and 20/15 vision!

[Dave V]

A couple doses of Solvaset go a long way toward thinning out decal film...

[chicken45]

A couple doses of Solvaset go a long way toward thinning out decal film...

I was nearly convinced that the stuff actually dissolved the film when I saw it work magic on the Archer transfers.

[DKS]

The rivet strips cannot be sanded. Even though the surface was prepped for their application, the decals are extremely delicate and easily dislodged or damaged, as I've learned firsthand. Sanding them is not a risk I am willing to take. Plus, given that there are twelve separate strips that would require sanding (some having only three rivets), it's definitely not five minutes' of work, and I frankly do not think it would be worth the effort, even if it was feasible. They have received several applications of Solvaset to thin them as much as possible, followed by Dull Cote to unify the surface. So, WYSIWYG.



Note that lighting will make the strips seem more obvious: when the light rakes across the surface, they'll pop out more.

If ya don't like 'em, ya don't gotta buy 'em.

[Dave V]

Decal film or no, I'm in for a G22 gon's worth!  They look fantastic and they exceed my personal proto "good enough" standard by a healthy margin.  They are also well beyond my own scratchbuilding skills.

[up1950s]

I've got 3 or 4 MTL G22s coming my way , and all will be filled . When the G22b's become available from TomCat I will buy 2 and leave them open so the screens can be seen . Were there any with partial loads being shipped ? Thanks Dave , I think they are awesome . Could you think about doing Coke and the taller Arched Top ones also please .

[VonRyan]

Guys, it's decal film not rivet counting.  It would take 5 mins to sand the film to blend the edge and then it wouldn't be carried through in the castings.  If you notice, DKS already spent a lot more time fixing the chain rollers, so he's interested in a good master.

In five minutes I could be watching another commercial on reverse mortgages rather than sanding decal film.   

-Cody F.

[Alwyn Cutmore]

Hi David,

If they are anywhere near as good as you bulldozer is will get my penneth worth and some.

Regards

Al

[Bob Bufkin]

I'm with you Al.  Also received a few of the Pennsylvania bumper posts.  Another great looking piece there David. 

[DKS]

I'm with you Al.  Also received a few of the Pennsylvania bumper posts.  Another great looking piece there David.

Um... those are Z scale...