Fix'n a steamer

[spr1955]

Here she is all spread eagle, so to speak.



I first got the orientation correct on the eccentric and then ran her. It was ok but you could see a binding going on. Upon more examination the crank pin is no longer straight, it's at an angle causing the eccentric to be out of plane.
If you look closely at the crankpin hole you can see what appears to be a small crack along with some expansion which probably occurred when I soldered the eccentric (chalk that one up to experience). I don't know if that was a preexisting condition or not but it does point to replacement as the only alternative I have. If someone has a better idea I am open to suggestions.

Hoping when I get a new driver that you guys could help guiding me replacing it ?

Daivd P.

[mmagliaro]

Well, at the risk of making things worse (!)  I will keep pitching here...

First, it looks like the crosshead guides (the slider guides) are bent, especially the lower one.  It looks like it is bent downward
quite a bit.  I don't know if that was just from this photo, but I would attend to that.  Get those bent back and straight
so the crosshead will slide back and forth correctly.

As for the crack in the crankpin hole, I wouldn't resort to replacing the whole driver just yet.  I think if you get a drop of epoxy
or Loctite in that hole, put the whole thing back together, and get the crankpin to stand up straight while the adhesive sets,
it will probably work.

[victor miranda]

hi spr1955,
the Help you get here is often hard to sift out from the opinions we have about the best way to fix.

in direct contrast is the fact that as long as you post questions,  we will answer.
...well ... that is what has happened in the past.

you have ordered parts from the folks a bachmann?

victor

[spr1955]

Nope on ordering parts, taking it slow. I am going to see if I make it (crankpin) sit in the correct position. If I can then I will LocTite it.   

Yes, the crossheads were and are really out of place, I noticed that too yesterday and wondered how/when that happened.
I guided the gear into it but as you say it really needs some help. So it goes.

One step at a time and I thank all that are helping me with those steps.

David P.

[victor miranda]

mmmm.
ok. the easy way may be buying the parts.

on to the fix,  from what I see, I'd use medium(blue) loc-tite.
read the insructions.  they state to wick out the extra, don't skip that step.

try to get the main crank to stand up square
and give it a run.

[SkipGear]

Victor,
  There is a better loctite product for this application. Look for a green loctite, "Sleeve Retainer". It is thicker, doesn't run as much and is designed to hold press in bushings on machinery. A good autoparts store should have it.

[spr1955]

Good tip, thanks Tony.

David P.

[victor miranda]

how permanent is green loc-tite?

the reason for the blue recommendation is that it can be removed when the loco needs service.

victor

[mmagliaro]

Well, I think the green Loctite Tony is talking about is different than the green loctite I use!  I went to LocTite's website,
and I can't find the one he mentioned, but I can find it around the web.   So first, let's clarify which "green"
we mean here.

The stuff I use is Threadlocker Green 290. 

It is not thick.  It is watery thin.  It is designed to draw into a joint by capillary action
after parts are joined together, which makes it great for putting on the tip of a driver axle to stop the wheel from slipping,
or put it on a gear on a shaft that is slipping.  The "official" rating from Loctite is that it requires some heat to disassemble.
In my experience, sometimes you can get things apart and sometimes not with this stuff, depending on the surfaces.  If one
is slippery plastic, you have a shot.  If it's metal-on-metal, almost impossible without heat.

I *THINK* the stuff Tony is referring to is Loctite Sleeve Retainer Green 640  (but they also make a 620, so I'm not sure)
(Tony will chime in here, I'm sure to correct me if I've gotten that wrong).

Here is a data sheet on the 640 stuff (this same site has data sheets on a lot of the Loctite products):
http://www.kraftindustrialsupply.com/My%20Scans/640-EN.pdf

[SkipGear]

640 is what I am talking about. I have used it in both automotive and model railroading applications.

640 - http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/thread-compounds/retaining-compounds/permatex--high-temperature-sleeve-retainer-detail

While digging on the Permatex site, it seems they make one that may be even better....680 for "relaxed" fit. It is designed for looser fitting components, sort of a gap filling application.

680 - http://www.permatex.com/component/virtuemart/permatex--bearing-mount-for-relaxed-fits-detail

They even make 202 for sloppy fitting parts....

202 - http://www.permatex.com/component/virtuemart/permatex--bearing-mount-for-worn-parts-detail

[peteski]

Permatex and Loctite are different companies, so Loctite "green" and Permatex "green" are different products. That was probably the source of confusion.

EDIT: unless of course Permatex products are just repackaged Loctite (Henkel) products... 

[SkipGear]

It is quite curious that their part numbers match pretty much across the board. I always knew for Blue Loctite to get 242 which both companies use for a part number. I also have both Loctite and Permatex products that come in identical tubes except for the printing. I never really realized they were not one in the same.

[mmagliaro]

I did some poking around the web.  They are two separate companies.  They probably keep their "red" "blue" and numbering the
same so that customers don't get mixed up and disgruntled.   It's no surprise that it's confusing.
Looking online, I found tons of stores that call this stuff "Permatex Loctite",
or call it "Loctite" and then show a photo of the Permatex package for sale.

Heh, like you, Tony, I never thought about it and I didn't realize there were two companies making this stuff.
I though it was all "Loctite".