GE 44 ton early phase

[Wardie]

Has anyone tried modifying a Bachmann GE 44 tonner to represent the earlier phase version with the side radiator louvers as opposed to the end louvers? One of the Maine Central 44 tonners I want to model, #11, was the only one ever painted green and it is the earlier phase. I don't think the work to smooth the end louvers off would be too bad, I was  mainly wondering about a likely parts donor for the side panels.

[coosvalley]

When I was going to try one in HO, I was going to use Plastruct plastic stairs, so maybe something similar would work here.....????

Good luck and give us pics when you are done

[Wardie]

Unless somebody has a better idea I think I just may try some of those archer louvers for the effect. It really is a fairly small strip. The big factor will be getting the face of the locomotive flat where the big triangle logo goes. Then there just needs to be something on the sides to give the appropriate impression of the louvers. I have a Bachmann factory B&M 44 tonner about halfway through the process of becoming MEC #16 since that ones trucks looked the most silver under rust and dirt. I've removed the B&M logos and numbers and am waiting for the clearcoat to dry to apply MEC logos and numbers. It took me several days of slow patient work but I managed to remove the side handrails, cab and windows without breaking anything. It is a shame they GLUE the things together. I also worked slowly removing the markings to do my best ti keave the factory paint job intact.

[mandealco]

Hi Wardie
You can use Evergreen or similar weatherboard siding sheets for radiator shutters.  The N-Scale sheet would be about the right size for the 44-tonner.
Cheers
Steve

[Chris333]

Anyone have drawings of the early version? 

I started working on one. I milled the frame down so it was the same width as the motor. Then I cut the sides off the hoods to narrow them. My idea was to etch new hood sides in brass, they would be thinner and narrow the hood about 18" if I remember right.  The louvers could be etched so that they folded up and out a bit.

One of those project I have sitting in a box...

[wcfn100]

I think the Kalmbach Locomotive book has a drawing.  Otherwise I have a couple other references.

I'm up for drawing it in 3D and getting a bid from Mark4.  But I won't be able to get to it until probably November if people are okay waiting.

I would want to look at narrowing the chassis like Chris is doing so the hood can be closer to scale width.

Jason

[Wardie]

I'll wait for a shell if you are going forward with it. If it becomes that simple a project I will do both of the MEC's early phase units, #11 and #12.

[R L Smith]

Wardie, I'd like to re-letter a factory painted model.  What did you do to remove the B&M logos without hurting the paint underneath?

Thanks,


Ron

[Wardie]

Rubbing Alcohol combined with a pencil eraser, q-tip cotton swab and toothpick based on the size of the area I was removing the lettering from. I was able to use the pencil eraser on the B&M Minuteman herald on the side of the cab and parts of the large 118's on the hoods, I then used the q-tip on more of the 118's and the lettering on the ends of the hoods on the tops. Then I blunted the tip of a wooden toothpick and gently used it to scrub the lettering in the recesses between the hood doors. Bachmann does have a clear coat on this model and the alcohol did cause white discoloration of this along areas where I removed lettering. I washed and rinsed the shell three times after finishing, each time removing a little bit more of residue near the areas I stripped, then I re-clearcoated the model with Testors Glosscoat to provide a new base for decals. This also covered up the last of the whitening from the alcohol. Right now under bright lighting and magnification you can see a very faint line between the areas I stripped and the areas I did not, but I am 99% certain this will not be noticable after I dullcote when I am finished.

The next one I do I may try Solvaset first to see how it works on Bachmann lettering, the reaction to grab the rubbing alcohol is because I have used it quite succesfully in the past on Atlas products. After I reletter it on Friday I'll post some pictures.

[Chris333]

This is where I left mine:

[wcfn100]

Ugh, I forgot about all the little things.  I think I would want to do the whole thing over.

What is the width of the chassis after cutting it down? 


Jason

[Chris333]

.316" wide same as the motor. You can see I dug into the screws a bit, but I can still get a driver in them.

[wcfn100]

.316" wide same as the motor. You can see I dug into the screws a bit, but I can still get a driver in them.

If I go by the Kalbach book, the hood width is about 4'6".  This wouldn't leave much more then .020" for a wall thickness.  I don't know that RP could handle that, I'll have to check.

I guess the biggest question is what do people want?  The cheapest option would be to just make new hoods that would fit the Bachmann shell.  The best looking solution would be to redo the whole body with a more scale hood and fix the roof and other things.

Jason

[peteski]

While I was willing to live with the stock hood on the 44-tonner, I was seriously considering photo etching the cab (or at least new walls).  I just can't stand the tiny windows which along the wall thickness, makes them look like windows you would find in medieval castles!  Chris' photo shows that "feature" quite clearly.

[arbomambo]

While I was willing to live with the stock hood on the 44-tonner, I was seriously considering photo etching the cab (or at least new walls).  I just can't stand the tiny windows which along the wall thickness, makes them look like windows you would find in medieval castles!  Chris' photo shows that "feature" quite clearly.

much easier to thin the plastic walls from the inside with a dremel tool, if you want to have them look more to scale...actually, try using an emory board...it removes a good amount o fplastic...takes a little longer than the grinder in the dremel tool, but wil give you more control if you haven't used the dremel in this fashion before...
Respectfully,
Bruce