My status update..

[hunter_alexander]

Well thanks to Superturbine's steam post as well as everyone elses great work on here, it has motivated me.

I have the first paint on the first of my Empire State Express, only the stainless so far. Have to wait to paint the black tomorrow.

Turned out pretty decent. Not liking the masking on these at all. What a pain!!!  But it looks good so far. Just taking my time.

I also tore apart my 2 somewhat correct walthers short bay window cabooses to strip the paint off. I think one may end up Jade green and the other boxcar red. Have to break out my NYC books to see whats what on them.

I have started the first of my three Robert Ray NYC woodside caboose kits. Nervous.

I dont have a ton of time on my hands since I recently had a divorce and I am now a single dad.

I am also on call 24/7 for the Senior Executives at GE Transportation globally, where I handle all their IT and telecomunications.  So for me finding time to work on this stuff is hard, but thanks for the great threads that have gotten me motivated again.

Cheers!!!

[superturbine]

I think we have all been motivated..... Glad you feel the same.  Post pictures of your "ESE" we all love to see the work in progress..... Who knows you might have 200 replies before long.  Here is #1

[UP4-8-8-4]

     Alright, another NYC Empire State Express Hudson being painted and built !
Masking takes a lot of time and patience but is well worth it.
Everything I paint wether its plastic, pewter or brass, is first sprayed with green SEM Self Etching Primer (from auto paint stores) sprayed from the rattle can into an airbrush bottle. This type primer actually eats into any surface, but drys so fast theres no distortion of any detail. Paint will never flake off or pull off when masking and painting.
One secret to airbrushing when masked for another color is to apply light coats and keep the airbrush about 10 inchs while spraying. This keeps the second color from bleeding under the taped off color.
After all paint work is finished, always apply a couple coats of a clear coat for decal placement since all decals have a shiny finish.
Decals placed over a shiny finish will blend in and not show any edges.
Once decals are dry is when I apply the Solvaset, then let completely dry, followed by either a clear, semi-gloss or flat finish.
If you have an auto paint store around, you may consider using a auto basecoat type paint, using a medium dry basecoat reducer.
I have a Dupont SpectraMaster Solid Color Library color chip master book showing every color shade made in a solid color. I get 4oz mixed when I use it. Theres two different types I have mixed, Dupont ChromaBase or Nason Ful-Base.
This is the only type paints I now use as I can do a multi-color paint jobs from start to finish in a day.



Ernie

[hunter_alexander]

Ugh, I so need to hone my picture taking skills. 



Here is when I first purchased them



I use auto primer as well.   The paint I am using now is testors stainless steel buffing metalizer. Not too impressed but from a can, eh, until I can get my airbrush setup fixed it will have to do.

Its a start. Never painted N scale items before. Always did O gauge before. My kids love the Lionel trains. (so do I). I have 2 big ovals up on my bedroom floor right now. Every time they are over we have a blast.

Anyways, here is the start of my bay window cabooses as well.



You know, Superturbine, if I cleaned them up really well, now might be a great time to do castings of these cabooses to make more huh? lol

[hunter_alexander]

Well hopefully pics to come tomorrow, but not happy with how the black on the ESE turned out. Wish my airbrush was working. Spray can just gobbed it on.

Im usually good at misting it on, light coats, but this just came out splotchy. OH well. I still have the second one to do. Maybe it will turn out better.

Makes me nervous about the robert ray cabooses.

[hunter_alexander]

Well there is 40 bucks down the drain. Tried to put the tender on the chassis, tight fit. Snap!!!

Tender snapped in half. All that work carefully masking, for nothing.

Oh well, I still have another one to do. 

[UP4-8-8-4]

Well there is 40 bucks down the drain. Tried to put the tender on the chassis, tight fit. Snap!!!

Tender snapped in half. All that work carefully masking, for nothing.

Oh well, I still have another one to do. 

    I almost had the same problem.
On the tender, what snapped the body is the weight is to wide.
You'll need to remove the weight, put in a vice and use a file to file down both side edges untill the weight fits inside and past the chassie edges.
Once both edges are filed down, the tender will fit on the chassie like a glove.
If you have any problems with the engine shell setting to high on the chassie in front after its screwed down, cut a styrene shim, once you get the right thickness, then Krazy glue to the top of the motor to level the body.
I also had to do that to mine as well.




Ernie

[hunter_alexander]

Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. I will do that for the next one. The black ended up turning out pretty decent once it dried. Shame.  I guess I shouldnt say 40 bucks down the drain. In a positive perspective, I have stanchions and handrails/detail parts to detail the original ConCor Hudson shell. I think that will make it look 100% better.

On to the next one.

[Roger Holmes]

I have had great results using Tamiya semi-gloss black from a spray can.  It looks like a factory finish.

I airbrush Milwaukee Road orange since I have no other option and then put away the airbrush and get out the Tamiya can when it's time for the black.  I have a large engine project that should be ready to photograph by this week's weekend update (if not, then by the next week).

[hunter_alexander]

Well good to know you can get decent results from a can I guess.

Here is a question though, what do you all, the good modelers, use to mask your projects with? I was using the blue painters masking tape, but not sure if there are better alternatives out there. I feel that it is a bit thick for masking in N.

Before I move on to the next ESE Hudson shell, I am going to practice on a couple more cheapo cars and such. (something I should have done to begin with).

[hunter_alexander]

Got pics. I did as I said and made lemonade out of lemons.

Took the wire and detail parts from my one ESE kit and put the handrails etc on my ConCor Hudson shell. Wow!! Makes a huge difference on looks.

Used a #80 drill and put the holes for all the bits. Used CA on the insde of the shells where the stanchions went through to glue in place. Have the grab irons in place on the cab and front of the tender.

Dont look now but I think I maybe getting better working with N again.