Seaboard Central 2.0

[eric220]

Lookin' good DFF. Can't wait until my next chance to see it in person!

[wcfn100]

So the basic issue with using the filing jig (or doing the same without) is that in order to get a true point, you have file through the web of the rail (FT even acknowledges this).  Most people can see this is wron and wil stop filing from one side once they start cutting through the web.  But stopping there, the rail doesn't come to a point so the only thing to do is file from the other side.  But once you do that you start shortening the from point which is what creates to much space and causes the wheel hop.

I drew this to illustrate.  The red is the optimal point and the green is what generally happens with the jig or similar.  I can't remember what angle each is drawn at (maybe a 4 and 8?), but you can see how much more it's effected as the frog # gets larger.



You can see how much shorter the  frog is with even just a little filing on the outside rail head.

The solution, which has been around since the 70's, is shown in the following diagram from and old track laying book.



Bend the rail so the web comes out to the edge (or past) of the rail head and file the rail head straight on that side.  Now you should never cut though the webbing.  Then proceed to file your angle as sharp as you want or can. 

For larger frog #s there's a little more to it involving notching one rail into the other, but I think a #8 is going to be okay as shown.

Jason

[davefoxx]

Lookin' good DFF. Can't wait until my next chance to see it in person!

Eric,

You know that you're welcome back anytime that you're on the East Coast.  The longer mainline and the A&R extension might make it a more interesting visit than your last.

DFF

P.S.  Thanks for the Christmas card!

[davefoxx]

Jason,

Wow!  That's impressive, but I think beyond the dexterity of these hands.  Maybe in a larger scale I could do that.  Maybe.  That being said.  I do file through the web of the rails on my frogs and I don't have any need to file the outside of the railheads where they meet.  I appreciate how that would shorten the frog and create a larger gap.  I think my problem is related to trying to keep the flangeways to NMRA specs.  If I could tighten that up, then the gap would close.  My locomotives don't seem to have any wheel drop, but cars with narrow treads do.  But, so far, there has been no wheel drop related derailments.

That is a fascinating article, though.

DFF

[wcfn100]

Well then perhaps the next time you build one just take extra time with the frog.  You can see in your photo there's plenty of room for the point to extend further, maybe as much as 1/8", which is where the wheel drop is happening.

This isn't the best scan but if you look close you can see how deep the frog goes into the wing rails.  This is a #12 and I have to physically push down on the cars to get them to even bump a little on the frog.



Jason

[davefoxx]

Jason,

That is beautiful.  My hat's off to you.  Your information definitely will help me pay special attention to the frog the next go-round.  This was the first turnout that I built in the jig, and I have already learned some tricks to its intricacies.

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

I'm taking advantage of the holiday downtime to do a little scenery work today.  A few days ago, I applied lightweight spackling to bring the ground up to the street/sidewalks at this end of town, and, last night, I painted a sandy color over the spackling.  This morning, I applied some ground foam and ballast to begin some base scenery.  The plan is to come back and install static grass at some point when I buy or build a static grass applicator:



Yes, you've got that right, I actually ballasted approximately 12" of track!   Progress!    (I hate ballasting.)

Happy New Year!
DFF

[Dave V]

Dave, I gotta say, you have the best looking roads I think I've ever seen.

[davefoxx]

Thanks, Dave!  That means a lot to me coming from you.  But, I only built the roads based on tips from DKS and Chris333.  I couldn't have done it without their help, and I merely copied off of their ideas.

DFF

[davefoxx]

A little more ballast and grass:



DFF

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

looking good!

[davefoxx]

Thanks, Jeff!

I only had a turnout keeping me from having a ballasted section of track from Southern Pines around the end of the layout and into Aberdeen, so I went at it:



I really like how minimized (at least compared to Caboose Industries' ground throws) the slide switches are once the turnout is ballasted.  Hopefully, the points won't seize up as the glue dries.  I keep moving them from time to time.  So far, so good. 

DFF

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

If the points do seize and don't move easy a little 99% Isopropanol will dissolve the glue.

[Rich_S]

Dave, The ballast and scenery are looking good, two thumbs up  When I ballast I always add a few drops of plastic compatible oil near the points and around the head block tie. Don't over do it, just a few drops goes a long way to help keep the glue out.

[SSW7771]

Looking good. Almost really for trees