I hadn't had a reason to take one apart yet, sorry.
I will eventually have one in pieces to create a B&O EL something, but not yet.
Now we know who to call on for tips.
Well I picked up one of the second run whiz-bang smoke magic and mirrors version on the cheap from a board member. Currently I have one of the second run and I had two of the first run that were the "lower model". I wanted to do a shell swap so that I had two "fully loaded" types. If it's your first time around the block, it'll be a bear, just go slow and steady.
1. Pop the cab, may need to use an X-Acto to pop it.
2. Take the phillips head screw out of the smoke stack.
3. On the frame underneathe the cab, infront of the drawbar screw, is the other phillips shell screw, remove it.
Now the upper shell half should pop-off.
Analog
4. Unsolder the truck connections at the motor and the solderpad at firebox location.
5. Remove the phillips screw for the PCB for the headlight.
6. Unsolder both headlight connecting wires from the PCB.
7. Use a flat-head screwdriver and slide it in the relief in the bearing retainer. Push down on the truck nub.
8. Pull down and remove the trucks.
DCC
4. Loosen the wound wires to both trucks, providing slack. Cut the headlight wires between the front block and motor.
5. Use a flat-head screwdriver and slide it in the relief in the bearing retainer. Push down on the truck nub.
6. Gently pull on the truck until the slack in the wires are close to taught.
7. Quickly unsolder the pickup wires from the trucks. Extra care must be taken to not damage surrounding plastic parts or melt the truck frame.
8. Pull down and remove the trucks.
9. Remove both visible underside phillips head screws.
Thats pretty much it. Reassemble in reverse order as necessary. A word to the wise. Get some small gauge blackwire and TCS 1058 8-pin kit. Rewire the trucks and headlight as appropriate instead of trying to reuse the existing wires. Its also handy to have some 1/16" heat shrink tubing. Be mindful when rewiring the headlight, as the you'll want to avoid a connection at the loose weight that fits in the dome.
Now I have an analog 2-8-8-2 that I want to build into something else...I was thinking something B&O/C&O as WM 2-8-8-2 were smaller in stature.
The S.
