Weekend Update 12/05/10

[davefoxx]

For Atlas turnouts (have a bunch of them, mostly #5 and 7 ready to be used), I've envisioned to power point and straight rails each
on their nearest side rail, while powering the frog independently.
Dave S story and your suggestion make me think that extra care should be taken for isolating the frog from converging/diverging rails.
A good case for a small rail brown paint dab at the juncture, small enough to be un-noticeable, large enough to prevent metal
wheels from bridging both rails ?

Marc,

I don't think that a dab of paint will correct the problem that I'm talking about.  When a wheel crosses a gap next to a frog, the rail and the frog on each side of the gap should be the same polarity.  Therefore, you don't have to be concerned about a wheel bridging a gap and constantly replacing paint as it wears off.

The problem occurs when a gap closes, and another rail of the opposite polarity touches the frog.  If you power your frogs, you'll have a short when you power up the layout.  If you don't have powered frogs, you'll get a short as soon as a wheel hits the frog from the direction with the differing polarity.

Hope this helps,
Dave

[Mark5]

This weekend was frustration as I found there are no decals for the two WM 50 footish TOFC flats I am modeling ...

I guess they'll be red with no lettering until N scale makes some progress in this area.

I was also considering a New Haven TOFC - no decals either (I could probably piece together a reasonable fascimile though)

[conrail98]

Technically, it wasn't the weekend, but since football was still on, I'll count it. I got the supports up for the last peninsula last night:



All that's left is the front bracing, then we can start with track laying,

Phil

[Day One]

Probably a dumb question (I'm good for those), but is there any issue of the sharp radius curve affecting your speed matching?  A six-axle locomotive (or long-based steamer) may run completely different from a four-axle motor on that circle of track.

DFF

I don't have an answer to that yet. I hope that as long as the loco doesn't bind and run poorly, that I will get consistent results.

The rig, as pictured, is not yet functioning 100% correctly. I've got it to where I can run a loco and read/write to the BDL168 at the same time, but I still can't get the BDL168 to talk with the LocoBuffer. It's something with Railsync and I've got a few more things to try before I revert back to the original plan and just use a Digitrax Booster and throttle.

I'll keep updating this topic as I work through the final setup and using it. http://therailwire.net/forum/index.php/topic,19451.0.html

[N_DaveS]

Thanks so much for the feedback on the frog/short issue. I do think the problem has to do with the frog/rail gap closing; looks like it's time to fire up the Dremel! Naturally I discovered this at the end of the layout work day (i.e. Sunday evening) and haven't had time to revisit this.

As far as the connection between the ties on the cut-off throwbar side is concerned, remember to leave enough throwbar so it stays under that piece when it moves. I may have cut one of my throwbars too short and it seems to catch every once in a while, so I'll have to lengthen that one a bit. Live and learn!

[Ian MacMillan]

Ian,

Depending on the deflection, I either bend or file them.  Generally, if it's a vertical deflection, I file them.  You will have a better chance of bending the points, if there is a horizontal deflection that tightens the gauge.  Just be careful, because the points are surprisingly sturdy, but where they attach only takes so much abuse.

I don't know if this helps, but here's one word of advice.  Do you cut off the extended ties and throwbar on the side away from your ground throw (or both sides if you have an undermount switch machine)?  If you do, you must keep the small bit of plastic outside the rails that is perpendicular to the ties and crosses over the top of the throwbar .  That small molding seems to hold the throwbar down and prevent it from rising up and raising the points above the stock rails.

Hope this helps,
Dave

Alright I have to file mine. I dont have a tight gauge problem.

Yes I do cut off the head ties on the side away from the ground throw, and I learned many many years ago that you need to cut them beyond the molded brace on that is on top of the ties, because it does just exactly what you said.

[N_DaveS]

Mystery solved - it was a combination of slight frog/rail contact and, more significantly, reversed wiring on the frog/turnout throw connection. : At least I got some rail-cutting practice out of it!

[93cram]

Mystery solved - it was a combination of slight frog/rail contact and, more significantly, reversed wiring on the frog/turnout throw connection. : At least I got some rail-cutting practice out of it!

Ah, the mysteries of wiring  :
First thing to know : talk gently to your turnouts  ;D

[Chris333]

How are those new #10 turnouts? Do they need work before installing? I plan to use them on the new mainline.

[Ian MacMillan]

How are those new #10 turnouts? Do they need work before installing? I plan to use them on the new mainline.

I love them... I use them as my main line crossovers and any mainline/mainline junctions. Only had an issue with a handful that I bought when they first came out in that the whole switch was slightly bowed. Nothing some gluing it down didn't solve.

[wcfn100]

I figured I'd update this here since I probably won't be doing any train stuff this weekend.



  I think I learned enough from this one to make a couple good sets.  This one got a little mangled trying different things.  I'll still use it for testing colors.  You'll notice the back of the pier at the top is showing it's stripes so to speak.  That area is the biggest weakness visually to the the way it's constructed .  I'm hoping my next attempt will be better, but if not, it's not a part that readily shows once the rest of the bridge is in place.  The little notch at the bottom isn't supposed to be there, just careless on my part, but it would be underground anyway. 


  The plan is to try and 'dry-spray' acrylics (too much pressure from too far away), and hope it gives it a nice concrete type finish.  Using that technique will hopefully also allow me to blend two or three different 'concrete' colors - still to be determined.  I'm thinking a base with just a hint of green, then a really light (to white) gray, and see what else it might need to capture the color.



Jason

[Sokramiketes]

  You'll notice the back of the pier at the top is showing it's stripes so to speak.  That area is the biggest weakness visually to the the way it's constructed .  I'm hoping my next attempt will be better, but if not, it's not a part that readily shows once the rest of the bridge is in place. 
Jason

For these instances I glue on an oversize piece of .005" styrene just to face that area, then trim to fit with a sharp x-acto.  It will cover the "stripes" and gives you just the corner seams to address, which often don't need to be filled at all.

[wm3798]

Jason, if the bridge girders are nested in between the pillars, will you even see that surface?  If so, a little putty, a little paint, make it somethin' that it ain't!

Seems to me a couple of quick passes with some sandpaper would do the trick.

Lee

[tom mann]

Jason, use the Rustoleum Sandstone Texture paint.  I used it on Craig's concrete bridge and it gives a nice effect.  It's subtle, so it'll work in N scale.

[wcfn100]

which often don't need to be filled at all.

Well that's the $64,000 question, because you're talking about creating 11 more seams in a visible area over 4 seams in a hidden area.

Jason, if the bridge girders are nested in between the pillars, will you even see that surface?  If so, a little putty, a little paint, make it somethin' that it ain't!

Seems to me a couple of quick passes with some sandpaper would do the trick.

No, you wouldn't see it, but that doesn't mean I can't build it better.  I think I was just working too fast and the last step (smallest one on the edge with the biggest seam showing) moved just a bit while I was filing.  I could fill it, but I'm not using this piece anyway.

Maybe my next one, I'll document the construction steps I took, and we can see if there is a better way.


Jason