stripping a Kato PA

[JoeD]

Just landed a pair of ATSF Kato PA's and want to convert them to SP.  What's the best way to get the paint off?

Thanks

Joe
MTL

[Bob Bufkin]

I know I read somewhere that their paint was a PITA to get off.  There lettering is fairly easy to remove though.

[DKS]

Yes, the styrene that Kato uses causes some problems during stripping. I found out the hard way that some of the more commonly-used techniques, such as brake fluid and related chemicals, render the plastic brittle. Those things that are kinder to the plastic also take forever to work. So you may be in for some lengthy periods of scrubbing with a toothbrush. I'd suggest trying 90% alcohol, although others here might have better recommendations.

[Chris333]

90% alcohol worked for me with a ABBA set of Kato F3's, but I did the same thing (asked first) Someone also recommend using a soft brush in a Dremel to help the alcohol along. It may not work for their PA's though.

[Rich Reinhart]

I used 91% iso and it didnt even put a dent in my SD45..good luck

[wcfn100]

I stripped an SD45 and an early SD40-2 with 91% without a problem.

The only Kato I've had problems with using 91% that I can remember were the GN F3s that were double hit with orange on the nose.

Jason

[JoeD]

Thanks for the info.  I though about keeping them ATSF and run them with my FT's, but the red leans towards orange and it looks odd.  I was looking today and I will probably go with the alcohol and follow it up with some 1000 grit sandpaper and a loop to get any high spots left over.  I figure if i screw it up I can always pull out Tom Mann's book and "season" it.


Thanks

Joe

[ednadolski]

Never used it myself, but I've heard that Chameleon paint stripper is supposed to work well and is safe for Kato plastics.


http://www.chameleonproductsonline.com/howtousetipsfaqs.html
http://www.wig-wag-trains.com/Chameleon/Chameleon_Product-Page.htm


Ed

[71jeep]

The Chameleon works great especially if you warm it up just a bit  has taken anything off I have asked it to.


Allen....

[nickelplate759]

Chameleon works well, but I've had a small number of models with problems if I warm it.

1)  Rivarossi passenger car : the windows (part of the roof casting) frosted over.
2)  Kato 6-6-4 sleeper body:  cracked
3)  Atlas (China) Airslide:  random bits of the body softened and warped.

I've never had problems if I don't warm it, but it does work better when warm.

George

[ArtinCA]

I use Chameleon as well, but I don't go to the trouble of warming it. But it does work well! I haven't had anything yet it wouldn't strip, including paint from 40 year old brass HO models.

Art

[Frank Amato]

Definitely 91% isopropyl, a toothbrush, and patience!

http://therailwire.net/forum/index.php/topic,12079.0.html

  Frank

[Glenn Poole]

Consider buying undecorated shells direct from Kato.  Ya, I know, $25 is kinda pricey, but it beats trying to clean other decorated shells.  Besides, it is crimnal to remove paint from a Santa Fe just so you can paint it something else.

[Hyperion]

Consider buying undecorated shells direct from Kato.  Ya, I know, $25 is kinda pricey, but it beats trying to clean other decorated shells.  Besides, it is crimnal to remove paint from a Santa Fe just so you can paint it something else.

This is what I always do.

It's worth the $20-30 it costs to avoid stripping their paint.  Besides, you can usually sell the decorated shell you removed on eBay to recoup most of your costs, so it really only costs like $10.

Same with Atlas shells.  Though their shells are at least super easy to strip, you can buy their Undec bodies for literally just a few bucks.  Spend $7-10 on an Undec shell and sell your decorated body for $10-15 on eBay and you can actually come out ahead and avoid the whole stripping part.  Or even just save the decorated shell in the parts bin, it's worth $10 to avoid the whole stripping thing, even on an easy Atlas.