The N Scale toolbox

[MichaelT]

Ok, this may not be the best section to ask this, but I read more in here than any of the other sub-forums so it seems fitting.

I'd like to ask a general question.

What givens, must haves, and needs for an N scale model railroad toolbox? I realize most items will be general and for other scales as well, but I'm working on getting tools and accessories that are essential into the train room work bench (yet to be built), and place the not so essential tools and accessories in the toolbox in the shed. So for you guys who are experienced and can rattle off a gaggle of needs, please do. I'd like to get a good grasp of what I'll need on a day to day basis, and what I'll only need to pull out on occasion.

Thanks for your help in advance.

michael

[Philip H]

• Exacto knife (2ea) with both #11 blades and chisel blades.  One handle dedicated to each blade type.
  
• Small screwdrivers - both the common 5 or 7 piece set, and the micro ones addressed in other threads.
• Multi-scale steel modelers ruler.  great for building N scale stuff from other scale plans (Mine has N, HO, O and S on it)
• tweezers, several pair.  Preferable including flat blades (aka stamp collectors tongs - great for decals and grab irons), chisel points, and any others you see that are cool.  At least one locking pair
• one set of small locking clamps
• a right angle clamping block.  great for getting walls together squarely on building kits
• a chopper or other dedicated strip wood and styrene length shortener.  I confess to not having one, but boy to I see their usefulness
• assorted sizes of fine bristle artists paintbrushes.  I generally work size 1 down to 0000.  get the best you can afford, trade up later, and keep the old ones - Tom Mann does some really cool weathering with a single bristle!
• assorted sizes of Micro-brushes.  these work great for glues and paint in small places, seams, etc.  They are also handy hodl downs for decals as you slide them off the backing paper.

[sizemore]

If you have a workbench, why not use peg board instead of a toolbox?

[victor miranda]

different from other scales....

not sure about that cause I tend not to do much in other scales.

one thing I can state is to not ignore the THREE lamps in Sizemore's photo.
It is hard to explain, more light helps MORE in n-scale.

[Bob Bufkin]

Good list from Phillip.  I would add a mitre box (small size to fit the scale), a good track cleaning tool, and a track/switch guage. 

[wazzou]

I like Ott-Lites and Opti-Visors.

[Denver Road Doug]

Well, depends on what you do a lot of as to what tools you need on the "front line".

I second every single thing mentioned thus far, and add:
-Pin Vise for mini drill bits
-Set of mini drill bits (make that two, for starters--they break)
-Mini Awl to start holes for mini drill bits
-Xuron tool for track laying
-Mini sanding sticks and emory boards
-Fine sandpaper
-Miniature metal files
-Miniature reamers

I, too, don't have a "Chopper" but want one. 

[James Costello]

I'll add:

+MTL coupler assembly jig
+MTL trip pin height gauge
+MTL coupler tweezers
+a small vise (desk mountable)

I find a clear set-square handy for detailing/decalling to help get things square too.

[GaryHinshaw]

Magnification.  Opti-visors are fine, but I like my cheap 3x clamp lamp from Staples even more.  Most valuable "tool" I have for detail work.

[wazzou]

I bought an LED light attachment for my Opti-Visor.  One of the best modeling investments I've made.

[SquirrelHollow]

I'm with Gary.  I like Sizemore's lighting set up, but I prefer a 3x Magnifier lamp to an optivisor.  It's much easier on the eyes, if you wear glasses; and you don't have to look under the lenses when you reach for another tool.

[DKS]

Magnification is more or less a must, particularly in N (try Z or T!), but each person's needs are different. I find Optivisors are way too strong for me—they make it hard to focus my eyes, and after a while I have a roaring headache. Not to mention the headgear is uncomfortable and awkward. I find 2.5X reading glasses just right. They weigh almost nothing and the narrow lenses are easy to look over or under when you need to see distant.
 


As for light, you almost can't have too much, especially when you work on absurdly small models like I do. I used to have a 250-watt drafting light, but it was like having a blowtorch on the workbench. It would bake my hands and my models (I actually warped a couple of models leaving them under the light by accident), and I'd be constantly bumping into it and burning myself.

Recently I made my own work light. I started with a set of under-cabinet LED lights. These aren't the wimpy type that come in strips; they're the ultra-high-power jobs that require heatsinks. I made a new heatsink (it's about the size of a playing card) and attached all of the LEDs into a cluster, then bolted it to the old drafting light arm. The unit itself gets only slightly warm, and it pumps an impressive amount of photons on my work without getting them or my hands the slightest bit warm, even when the light is only a couple of inches above my work. Plus the color temperature is a really nice neutral white, and it consumes a whopping 14 watts of power (compared to 250 watts). It was one of the best things I ever did. I think I may build a couple more for working on larger items.

[sizemore]

I kinda find that the LED and Flourescent tubes produce an unnatural light (yes, I know we've had that discussion), so I use those "Reveal" simulated UV bulbs. Really aids in matching colors when it comes to painting. But the biggest tools for me are trays with pink foam. I can switch projects quickly at the workbench. I'll have to clean the workbench this weekend and get an updated picture.

The S.

[DKS]

I kinda find that the LED and Flourescent tubes produce an unnatural light (yes, I know we've had that discussion), so I use those "Reveal" simulated UV bulbs. Really aids in matching colors when it comes to painting.

For color matching, yes, you need an accurate light source. For just plain modeling, I've found these particular LEDs produce a surprisingly neutral, natural-looking white, very close to halogen tungsten.


 

 


Hard to believe six LEDs produce enough light, but they're bright enough to hurt your eyes. (Each of these LEDs actually contains six emitters.)

[Philip H]

And David, it seems you have a functional paper towel holder as well . . .