Author Topic: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom  (Read 1260 times)

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shawnleon

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Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« on: March 26, 2010, 09:25:23 PM »
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Just pulled some of the first project cars and they have metal bottoms. Anyone tried to body mount couplers in this situation? Worth the effort?

I plan to give it a try with drill in hand, but may call off the charge if things get too hairy!

Shawn

CoalPorter

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2010, 10:50:01 PM »
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What is the car you are trying to work on?
What brand of couplers are you using?

Many  N scale cars do have metal underframes and it is no big problem to mount couplers.

Mirco Trains sells a drill and tap set for the proper size holes and threads. It comes with 2 sizes of drill bits. One bit is a clearence bit and the other (smaller one) is a used to drill a tap hole.
It is real easy to use.
Mark the spot you want to drill with a punch then drill hole and then tap the threads.
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James Costello

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2010, 12:36:14 AM »
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Used to encounter this all the time with MDC box cars.

Just take your time when drilling and tapping - broke a tap off in the process before.
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shawnleon

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2010, 01:15:43 AM »
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Used to encounter this all the time with MDC box cars.


Bingo! I think I acquired two handfuls of MDC box cars from a small, local shop on its last leg back in the day. The price was right, so there's little fear in jumping in and learning some new skills. I will be installing MT couplers, so I purchased a Coupler Starter Kit, which included a tap and drill set. Should be a fun Saturday!

Thanks for the replies,
Shawn

NYC1956

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2010, 08:28:07 AM »
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Use the drill and tap in a pin vise - by hand.
Back out the tap often and clear the metal chips,
otherwise the tap will bind and break easily.
The metal is pretty soft, so it is a pretty easy job.
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delamaize

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2010, 03:50:08 PM »
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Use the drill and tap in a pin vise - by hand.
Back out the tap often and clear the metal chips,
otherwise the tap will bind and break easily.
The metal is pretty soft, so it is a pretty easy job.

X2!

if you were going to use a "drill" I would use a dremel tool at a very VERY low speed in one of these:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=220-01
it works well, but you gotta be slow, and you almost gotta clamp down the frame, so it dosn't slide around and cause some shearing action on those tiny drill bits.
The Tap you MUST do by hand, but you probally knew that already! ;D
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shawnleon

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2010, 05:48:48 PM »
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Used to encounter this all the time with MDC box cars.


James, what MTL part # did you use to convert your MDC box cars? I misread the Excel sheet from MT's web site and ordered 1015/1016s. On second look I see they are calling for an 1128, which is really meant for mounting into a truck.  ???

delamaize and NYC1956 - I planned to pull out the dremel but instead picked up the tap and drill set from MT. I'm going to give slow and steady a try!

jerwayne

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2010, 07:42:12 PM »
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I broke a number of taps back in the '90s. I mentioned it to a hobby shop owner and he said "Use some cutting oil on it." I did and no more broken taps.

Jerry

James Costello

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2010, 07:46:47 PM »
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My first choice was a 1025, but a 1015/16 will work too. Depends on the car end too.
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Kisatchie

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2010, 08:01:56 PM »
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My first choice was a 1025, but a 1015/16 will work too. Depends on the car end too.

Definitely use the #1025. The #1015 has too much side to side movement, and they look absolutely AWFUL when backing up cars. The two joined couplers get pushed so they're at a 90 degree angle to each other.
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bbussey

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2010, 09:03:21 PM »
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I broke a number of taps back in the '90s. I mentioned it to a hobby shop owner and he said "Use some cutting oil on it." I did and no more broken taps.

WD-40 works also.

Definitely use the #1025. The #1015 has too much side to side movement, and they look absolutely AWFUL when backing up cars. The two joined couplers get pushed so they're at a 90 degree angle to each other.

The only issue with the 1023/1025 is the oscillation when pulling the cars, which is most of the time.  I prefer the 1015/1016, which also oscillates but when pushing rather than pulling.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2010, 09:05:53 PM by bbussey »
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shawnleon

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Re: Body mounted couplers & metal bottom
« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2010, 12:11:45 AM »
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I am going to try 1015s since I have them already. If it doesn't work out, I'll order some 1025s. If the 1015 works, it means I can actually put my first car project in the complete column this weekend.

Shawn