Which track do you use?

[Chris333]

And about a year ago you couldn't get ME track, but Atlas was all over the place.

I like how ME holds it's shape when you bend it. The Atlas track is super flexi and to me the looser rail of the two is just a little too loose, but it works fine I guess.

I like ME flex and Atlas TO's.

[DKS]

What of C40? Good track to use for yard and industrial trackage (appearance-wise)?

C40 certainly looks good for this kind of application; just beware of functional limitations, as in what will and won't roll on it.

C40 is in the background, behind the C55 switches and track in the foreground. You can see a transition point to the left of the tie crane.
 


Here's another shot, with C55 on the left, and C40 on the right as abandoned track.
 

[Mark5]

Ideally, for most RRs Code 43 (roughly 135# rail) would be ideal for mainline (at least for N&W!).

Code 40 is a bit large for sidings in the old days (roughly 115lb rail). But this is splitting hairs as 100# rail would be Code 38. So I guess it's good!

Some rinky dink shortlines had some really tiny rail - this becomes a challenge in N scale.

Mark

[DKS]

Some rinky dink shortlines had some really tiny rail - this becomes a challenge in N scale.

You said it. http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/clinic_03.htm

[C855B]

I was messing with hand-laid Code 40 back in the early days. I decided that even as a teenager I wasn't going to live long enough to put together my concept of a layout this way. Today it's ME Code 55 and Atlas TO's.

Ed, I have no problem with weathered ME track. Like peanut butter, I like my track "crunchy".    (Tracksetta and Ribbonrail templates go a long way towards mitigating the issues with hand-forming curves.)

[Mark5]

Some rinky dink shortlines had some really tiny rail - this becomes a challenge in N scale.

You said it. http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/clinic_03.htm

Very nice!  You say the NWSL wheels are the only ones that will work. Is this because the solder is creeping up the inside of the "rails"? Back in prehistoric times I was able to run the ridiculously large flanges on Rapido locos on C40 - IIRC the flanges were 35 thousandths (the flanges looked ridiculous too!).

(in theory with Code 25 rail the flanges could be up to 25 thousandths deep)

Mark

[DKS]

Some rinky dink shortlines had some really tiny rail - this becomes a challenge in N scale.

You said it. http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/clinic_03.htm

Very nice!   You say the NWSL wheels are the only ones that will work. Is this because the solder is creeping up the inside of the "rails"? Back in prehistoric times I was able to run the ridiculously large flanges on Rapido locos on C40 - IIRC the flanges were 35 thousandths (the flanges looked ridiculous too!).

(in theory with Code 25 rail the flanges could be up to 25 thousandths deep)

Mark

This was built several years ago. At the time, the NWSL wheels were the only ones I could find that rolled on my C25 track. Now, there may be others. As for how deep the flanges can be, yes, in theory they can be 25 thousandths. But in practice, this becomes a challenge. The solder does indeed create an issue. I've since gone on to hand-lay Z scale track with the C25 "rail" (below) and have improved my soldering techniques. However, unless every solder joint is absolutely perfect (a tall order), or the copper cladding is cut away right at the insides of the rails (difficult and risky), flanges still need to be less than about 20 thousandths.
 

[chuck geiger]

New layout will be...
Atlas Code 55 Main and maybe Peco/ME C-40 on sidings....

[Bruce Bird]

Ideally ME 55 and Atlas TOs, but I use Atlas 55 flex on the main also.

A friendly reminder- if you mail order have the USPS deliver your flextrack.  Those long, skinny boxes that normally ship flextrack are apparently the favorite target of UPS/Fedex 'handlers' to test their, uh, 'flexability'.  It sucks getting a couple of bundles of ME track and the middle sections are useless since they've been bent 180 degrees.

[wcfn100]

I've never cared for the rounding of the tie ends, the flash or the draft angle of the ME track all of which readily shows in David's photos.

I'm also not much of a fan of the stiffness, but I came from a background of using contact cement to lay track so the superflex allowed me to lay a nice smooth curve and the cement held it instantly.

The new layout will use Atlas c55 because it's just for show.  Any serious endevours will probably end up as hand laid c40.


Jason

[ljudice]

I am back to Peco Code 55: bulletproof and fairly good looking.

I used Atlas Code 55 on a project last year and it is gorgeous, but I found it was just too delicate and sensitive to the slightest imperfections in roadbed.

[Catt]

I'm using Peco code 55 flex with ATLAS code 55 #7 turnouts.The only fault I have with the ATLAS turnouts are the brown ties.but they will be blackened (actually greyed)to match the Peco ties once I start weathering.  ;D

[asciibaron]

i have everything i need to build the L&HR v2.0 but the needed curved turnouts.  any clue when Atlas is gonna deliver these.  anyone?

[unclepete20]

For my modeling skills at best, I admit it, I still use good ol Atlas code 80 flex. There is still a boatload of turnouts, diamonds, and what not. Plus all of my old engines still function on it and right now I am ripping out my curves and redoing right now with Kato super elevated curves. Yes I admit it, I am a medicore modeler at best 

[Catt]

Personally I can find nothing wrong with using code 80 track if that is what you like and are comfortable with.To my eyes a little weathering (painting) the rails and ties makes the track quite acceptable.

I have noticed a lot of folks seem to think someone not using code 55 or smaller rail are not really modelers.I won't express my opinion of those folks here because I like hanging out with you guys.These people remind me of certain DCC advocates and I don't listen to them either.  ;D

Sorry for rambling on but I just think people should use what they like and let other folks do the same thing,after all this is a hobby and hobbies are meant to be fun.