dry transfer VS. decal??

[71jeep]

Hi all..

Was thinking about this the other day and wanted to ask the group see if anyone else was wondering.

Why dont more manufactures offer dry transfers as apposed to decals??
Are dry transfers that much harder to make ,more exepensive,printing not as good,other??
I like the idea of not having to worry decal film gloss coats ect. ect.

I was searching the Web and found a few places that will make dry transfers not cheap but not unreasonable most said for hobbiest and one even said for model trains.

So just out of curiousity thought I would ask and see what others think.

Thanks..

Allen.....

[wm3798]

I've used dry transfers, and even had some made.  I think the main difference is ease of application over textured surfaces.  It's difficult to burnish a dry transfer onto a ribbed side car and keep everything aligned.  I have tried putting the dry transfer onto decal paper, then sealing it on, but you end up with a pretty thick film.

Dry transfers are a lot easier to get color matches (as opposed to ALPS, which offers "Yellow" or "White" but no shades in between.)

When I finally get around to getting my WM passenger lettering redone, they will be DT's to get the correct buff color.

Lee

[3rdrail]

I convert all dry transfers to decals before applying. Transfers just do not adhere properly to rivets, scribed planks, or ribs. And try to get them straight on a single sheathed boxcar!

[Erik W]

I convert all dry transfers to decals before applying. Transfers just do not adhere properly to rivets, scribed planks, or ribs. And try to get them straight on a single sheathed boxcar!

I do this too, rub them onto clear decal stock.  I like dry transfers but don't like the fact that you can't adjust them one they've been applied.

Erik

[Puddington]

As with most things in this hobby; the answer is application based. Dry transfers are great on a flat surface - you don't have issues with bubbling; seeing the edge of the decal et la... If you know how to work with them it's not hard to get them level - there are some easy tricks. On the other hand they are difficult to next to useless for wooden side cars, areas with rivets or applicances...

CDS was a great source for dry transfers but with their closing the dry transfer market is very small indeed.

[71jeep]

First thanks for all the replys I see a pattern here that the main issue is they are not very friendly on some application limiting there usefullness.I have not used them much okay once to fully see what they can and cant do but I really liked them the one and only time I used them.
And I sure do like that factory look they give over decals but then again I have still not done that many decals to perfect it  : I still suck at it 

And Lee if I may ask where did you have your dry transfers made???

Thanks


Allen....

[wm3798]

I used a printer in Baltimore a long time ago.  Not sure if they're still around.  I'm working on lining up a current supplier.  If I can pin one down, I'll pass it along.  I'm currently working on several projects, so if you want something done, I may be able to piggyback it with something I've got in the works.

The spelled out LAUREL VALLEY is from that set I had done back in the 80's.  Despite rather clumsy storage and several moves over the years, they still work fine with a little coaxing.




All the smaller lettering and dimensional data came from Micro Scale decal sets.

Lee

[71jeep]

Thanks allot Lee I would love to get some PRR cabin car decals/transfers done but i dont know how to do the artwork??

I know how to use a Cad a little but very little.

What type of program do you guys use to do the artwork???

I know about Corel draw but heard/read that has a fairly steep learning curve plus not sure if I want to spend that kinda money ;D.


Thanks


Allen...

[wm3798]

Most of mine are type face only, so I can do a lot just in MS Word.  Roland, who has done decals for me on his ALPS, likes to get submissions in MS Publisher, which is actually not a bad way to layout text, but it's not ideal for building artwork for logos.

Lee

[Chris333]

I don't think CAD is very good for text. Really the only way to manipulate the letters are to build your own and that ain't easy.

[71jeep]

My main question would be how do you know when the letters numbers are the correct size??
I know in Cad all have to do is measure but without  way to measure????
This is probably easier than I am thinking but for some reason I am lost :


Thanks...

Allen.....

[Ed Kapuscinski]

If you use Adobe Illustrator (or Corel Draw) you can do the artwork at whatever scale you need, AND do it all in actual inches, as opposed to pixels.

[wcfn100]

If you use Adobe Illustrator (or Corel Draw) you can do the artwork at whatever scale you need, AND do it all in actual inches, as opposed to pixels.

For N scale stuff in Illustrator I genrally draw 2x since it has a limited zoom which make the handles hard to get good control of.

The bonus to doing it this way is calculating the scale size is easy.  All I have to do is mulitply the actual measurements by .9 to get the right pixel size for 2X N scale (all long as you keep Illustrator at 72 pixels per inch).



Jason

[Dave Schneider]

I don't think CAD is very good for text. Really the only way to manipulate the letters are to build your own and that ain't easy.

Another way to go is to purchase the correct font for your railroad of interest.
Take a look at: http://www.railfonts.com/

These install easily on your computer, however if you are sending them to someone to print they need the Font as well or possibly have it converted to a PDF (I think this will work...never tried it).

Best wishes, Dave

[wm3798]

Yes, the available fonts are helpful, but they're not always correct.

The Western Maryland font I paid $40 for has a W and an S that are too wide, and the O, C, and U are too round to use for the South Branch Caboose project I currently have underway.

Grrr.

Lee