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If that really is the only barrier, then do yourself a favour this holiday season and try out TinkerCAD. If you can build things out of blocks, you can design with this free online program. To get you started, I drew this example up in about 10 mins:It's composed of 4 pieces: 2 slabs in red and two cylindrical shadow objects in grey (left). When you group them (right) you have something resembling your part (I'm just guessing dimensions of course, but this piece is about 4 mm on a side and 1 mm thick). Here's the link to the piece which you can use as a starting point:https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5Of5Mku89T8Sign yourself up for a free account, load this file, and start playing with it. If you can get something that looks like it might work, I'll print a set up for you and drop them in the mail. That will hold you over until your own printer arrives. It will change your modelling life.
I'm playing around with it and I can't even figure out how to extrude shapes from my box.
I’m in danger of finishing a project! WM Baldwin VO660 #103. The shell is essentially finished. I was hoping to finish today but discovered that I’ll need some smaller LEDs for the headlights. I’ll take care of the lenses once the LEDs are in. Also some quirky things to work out with the decoder, but at the end of the day, she’s running!Two things that I’m exceptionally happy with are the front grill, and the cab windows. I made the grill out of wire mesh cut to fit into recesses in the shell. The windows I printed in clear resin, then wet polished to 10,000 grit. They’re held in place by pledge floor polish.
Something like this?. . .It works, but still a lot of fussy bits to carve by hand. This would lend itself well to etching. In fact, I could probably use the same parts for the Athearn cars as the coupler boxes are almost identical.This is only a proof of concept. The coupler can sit too high. I have to shave about half the height of the upper centering pin. The cover is too thin and flops around like a dead fish. BUT... it works. I think if I remove the inner bevel on the lid and use thicker styrene on both the lid and the shim, it might both lower the coupler enough and provide clearance so I don't have to shave down the centering pins.Now I just need to make this repeatable. Luckily, I only have 6 cars to convert.
Beautiful job on the Baldwin!Nicely done