The Kato Milwaukee Road, Olympian Hi set

[fcnrwy23]

I know this is NOT what is being asked, BUT this is what is printed on the back of the train box...



I will keep my Ears Open, tomorrow (at Trainfest) for any related information...


Jerry G.

[OldEastRR]

KATO has changed their car interiors to only accept the 2.0V of their lighting kits, the LEDs with the slotted light board. The old solid lightboards that came with the early lighting kit (incandescent) lights can't fit.  Pegs are now molded into the tops of the Oly Hi interiors that match slots on the new light boards. And the old boards are a little bit thicker than the new boards. So even if you drilled holes in it to accommodate the pegs it still wouldn't fit.
The new method is pretty good idea, actually. The problem with the old way was nothing held the lightboard in place while you tried to re-install the shell. Thus it would shift or just fall out while trying. the pegs that fit into the slots on the new board hold the board in place so re-assembly of the car is easier. The mounting bracket for the LED socket has also been modified with much less plastic in the way of the light.
So probably switch out any slotted boards for solid ones in all lighted KATOs you now have, and use the newer boards in these new cars and I assume all future KATO passenger sets.

[fcnrwy23]

This may help explain the lightboards....   I have posted this on the Kato Lighting Kit V.2, thread as well....

Mr. Kato and entourage, were at Trainfest this afternoon.. (He was here with another group of youngsters, from Japan).
Talking with them about the HI, it was mentioned that CARE should be taken, when disassembling the Full Dome.  Because of it's different construction, this was done to facilitate the assembly of the model...

It was referred as ... "A Box over a Box" and that some "Pins" might be broken, if care was not taken...

There are "Pins" in the car's interior sides, that need to be handled with care...

.

The Roof/Glazing and Side Glazing of the car is ONE PIECE!, (Glazing/Framework). The Glazing extends down the side of the entire car..

I checked this just a few minutes ago...

The "Pins" are how the SIDES of the car, are attached...


(Opps, guess that means I cant sell this set...)

The "Red interior" is the CORE of the carbody.
The Glazing slips down, OVER the Core. "Box Over Box"
The Ends of the car, clip onto the CORE.  Forming the completed Carbody...

Interesting...

Jerry G.

[fcnrwy23]

Continuing from my last post...

This NEW construction of the carbody, would facilitate the possibility of 'Repainting" the car.

Remove the "Sides and Ends". 
Repaint them, while leaving the "Roof" Black.
Than reassemble the car.... 

Jerry G.

[OldEastRR]

Looks like KATO put openings in the dome area floor so the light can come up from the main body. They didn't do that with the COLA domes. Maybe somebody can put a LED set in a MILW dome and post a "night shot" with car lights on.

[mmagliaro]

I've been thinking of putting in the lights and wondered how difficult that might be.  I'm really interested in the responses to this question.

Richard Wroblewski
carmelmodelrr

To close the loop on this, the problem is indeed that my friend had some earlier-generation LED interior lighting kits and yes, the news ones are different, which explains why he was having problems making them fit.  He has ordered some sets of the new kits.  If there are any problems with those, I'll post in here, but I rather doubt that there will be.

[NorsemanJack]

This may help explain the lightboards....   I have posted this on the Kato Lighting Kit V.2, thread as well....

Mr. Kato and entourage, were at Trainfest this afternoon.. (He was here with another group of youngsters, from Japan).
Talking with them about the HI, it was mentioned that CARE should be taken, when disassembling the Full Dome.  Because of it's different construction, this was done to facilitate the assembly of the model...

It was referred as ... "A Box over a Box" and that some "Pins" might be broken, if care was not taken...

There are "Pins" in the car's interior sides, that need to be handled with care...

.

The Roof/Glazing and Side Glazing of the car is ONE PIECE!, (Glazing/Framework). The Glazing extends down the side of the entire car..

I checked this just a few minutes ago...

The "Pins" are how the SIDES of the car, are attached...


(Opps, guess that means I cant sell this set...)

The "Red interior" is the CORE of the carbody.
The Glazing slips down, OVER the Core. "Box Over Box"
The Ends of the car, clip onto the CORE.  Forming the completed Carbody...

Interesting...

Jerry G.

"Mr. Kato and entourage, were at Trainfest this afternoon.. (He was here with another group of youngsters, from Japan).
Talking with them about the HI, it was mentioned that CARE should be taken, when disassembling the Full Dome.  Because of it's different construction, this was done to facilitate the assembly of the model...  It was referred as ... "A Box over a Box" and that some "Pins" might be broken, if care was not taken..."

This makes me very nervous.  I always "take care" when disassembling anything in N scale.  Were there any particular hints or techniques offered?  Just saying "be careful" is of little value.  I can envision hearing the plastic snap and then realizing, "oh, this is what they were talking about."

[fcnrwy23]

UPDATE!!!

Disregard  the previous mention of a ONE PIECE ROOF (Glazing/Framework)...   
I did a further inspection of the ROOF Section...

THE Roof Glazing IS Separate for the Roof Framework.  BUT, the Side glaze panels are ONE PIECE with the main "Dome" glaze panels.   And the Front and Rear sections of glazing ARE separate from the main "Dome" panels.

See Photo =



I discovered these NEW Facts, as I removed the Roof.  As I did so, the side glazing flexed inward.  I first thought that I broke them, but as I push on them, the glazing "Popped - Out" from the Roof Framework..
The Cars "Ends" are also removable.  With the Standard Kato Diaphragms used.
The Car Sides are attached with Seven (7) "Pins".

Christ!  I Hope I can reassemble this thing?  .


Jerry G.

[NorsemanJack]

UPDATE!!!

Disregard  the previous mention of a ONE PIECE ROOF (Glazing/Framework)...   
I did a further inspection of the ROOF Section...

THE Roof Glazing IS Separate for the Roof Framework.  BUT, the Side glaze panels are ONE PIECE with the main "Dome" glaze panels.   And the Front and Rear sections of glazing ARE separate from the main "Dome" panels.

See Photo =



I discovered these NEW Facts, as I removed the Roof.  As I did so, the side glazing flexed inward.  I first thought that I broke them, but as I push on them, the glazing "Popped - Out" from the Roof Framework..
The Cars "Ends" are also removable.  With the Standard Kato Diaphragms used.
The Car Sides are attached with Seven (7) "Pins".

Christ!  I Hope I can reassemble this thing?  .


Jerry G.

Thanks.  What I (we) would really like to know is how to "carefully" disassemble it if all we want to do is install a light kit.

[learmoia]

FWIW this is how Walthers does the HO passenger cars and leads to a very flexible design.. Sides, Ends and roof over an open core..  different prototype cars may only require new sides vs entirely new tooling.

Cool ~Ian

[fcnrwy23]

NorsemanJack  -  Well, I do hope someone will do a post for your request.

I personally, do not plan on getting "lighting"

learmoia  -  Thank You for the Info.


Jerry G.

[NorsemanJack]

NorsemanJack  -  Well, I do hope someone will do a post for your request.

I personally, do not plan on getting "lighting"

learmoia  -  Thank You for the Info.


Jerry G.

I was hoping, since you've performed the complete dissection, that you would be able to reassure us that as long as we're just installing light kits, the shell/box/etc. just snaps off like usual  Was this or was this not the case?

[fcnrwy23]

I was hoping, since you've performed the complete dissection, that you would be able to reassure us that as long as we're just installing light kits, the shell/box/etc. just snaps off like usual  Was this or was this not the case?

The "Dissection" is probably beyond the scope of any light installation. But it was brought up, during the inquiry into the light installation issue.  I thought that I would pass this information along, since this thread is on the Olympian Hi, in general.

As to the lighting issue, it appears a person, just has to "Separate" the "Floor" from the "Body".  And than, just follow the instructions printed on the backside of the Set's box and those that come with the Lighting kit itself.  The "Board" is installed in a "Reverse" position, from how it is installed in the "Rest" of the cars in the set.

To aid those installing the lighting kit.  This is how I  "Separated" the Floor from Body...
1)  Cradle the car, upside down with your fingers.
2)  Spread apart the Body from the Floor, with your Thumb nails.  At a position, just below one set of trucks (Toward the center of the Car).
3)  At the same time, Pull up on that Truck set with your Index fingers.  That end of the car should have separated.  Repeat the process of spreading apart the car body, to fully remove the Floor.  If the process is not complete, than repeat steps 1 & 2 to the opposite end of the car...

If any other Oly HI info is discovered.  I will pass it along on this thread.. 


Jerry G.

[peteski]

My set arrived today. I see some good, bad, and ugly things. Well, mostly good.    I'll eventually do one of my technical reviews of the set. Hopefully soon enough for the info to be meaningful.

[NorsemanJack]

The "Dissection" is probably beyond the scope of any light installation. But it was brought up, during the inquiry into the light installation issue.  I thought that I would pass this information along, since this thread is on the Olympian Hi, in general.

As to the lighting issue, it appears a person, just has to "Separate" the "Floor" from the "Body".  And than, just follow the instructions printed on the backside of the Set's box and those that come with the Lighting kit itself.  The "Board" is installed in a "Reverse" position, from how it is installed in the "Rest" of the cars in the set.

To aid those installing the lighting kit.  This is how I  "Separated" the Floor from Body...
1)  Cradle the car, upside down with your fingers.
2)  Spread apart the Body from the Floor, with your Thumb nails.  At a position, just below one set of trucks (Toward the center of the Car).
3)  At the same time, Pull up on that Truck set with your Index fingers.  That end of the car should have separated.  Repeat the process of spreading apart the car body, to fully remove the Floor.  If the process is not complete, than repeat steps 1 & 2 to the opposite end of the car...

If any other Oly HI info is discovered.  I will pass it along on this thread.. 


Jerry G.

Thanks Jerry!  I also greatly appreciated your in depth photo review of the new design configuration, but the Kato team's comments about extreme care raised some flags.  None of us would want to break one of these fantastic cars.