Weekend Update 12/20/15

[peteski]

For all your metal shapes needs (yes, brass rods) I highly recommend http://specialshapes.com/ , now a division of K&S.

[basementcalling]

Howabout Mr. Foxx's Fixx?
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=25551.msg296847#msg296847

If it's good enough for Mr. Foxx and the Seaboard Central 2.0, it should be plenty good for the Idaho Belt. That looks like the same RS slider I found. My cork supports are not that wide or long.

I'm in the big cities for a few days, so I will check a couple places here while finishing Christmas shopping tonight and tomorrow. It's a shame not to be able to get basic supplies like wire without using the interweb thingy.  Thanks for the helpful assists.

[peteski]

It's a shame not to be able to get basic supplies like wire without using the interweb thingy.  Thanks for the helpful assists.

Well yes, but I've been ordering from Special Shapes (usually the 36" lengths of brass shapes) using snail mail or phone, long before Interwebs. The price is much better when buying those (especially if you order bunch of items to stock up for future projects).

[Chris333]

All my local craft stores sell music wire packaged in 12" lengths.

[basementcalling]

All my local craft stores sell music wire packaged in 12" lengths.

Chris, what diameter do you use with music wire. I find the .032 dia almost impossible to accurately bend with my tools. And cutting it requires a dremel. I ruined one pair of flush cutters on it.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

If you need a more secure mounting, there's this option too.
http://conrail1285.com/mounting-slide-switch-turnout-controls-anywhere/

[Philip H]

I've also found a good selection of K&S rod and wire at hardware stores. Most Ace seem to carry it as does Stroesniders in Montgomery County, MD

[Angus Shops]

I typically add bends  to the brass wire to provide a bit of spring in the connection. If the throw distance on the slide switch is greater than the throw distance in the points of the turnout it seems to me that undue stress is placed on the turnout. I use hand built turnouts and that connection between the point rails and the throw bar is susceptible to breakage. The spring in the wire connection should reduce the stress on the turnout. I use 4 x 90 degree bends to form a small, square, "C" in the brass wire between the slide switch and the turnout. At least that's the theory; I have no idea if it actually makes much difference.

Geoff

[M.C. Fujiwara]

I apologize for sending this WU off into a Slippery Slide Switch Swamp.

Really should have placed all my comments in Peter's Layout Engineering Thread, especially as the most of the posts here (including my own) just re-cycle most slide switch issues in various situations.

Last perspective:

Size comparison: Radio Shack bigass slide switch w/ flange versus SparkFun slideswitch



Weekend Update ReRailer:

On Alameda Belt-in-a-Box:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24399.150

Drilled feeder holes for the 5 turnouts left.
Drilled / reamed out space for the slide switches.



After installing the slide switches, will be able to wire up & run with 9VDC pocket throttle!
(Maybe adapt to DCC soon, so we can rock Atlas S2 w/Sound)
BUT ALL FROGS POWERED!!!



Back to all the amazing work that rocks here every week!

[nkalanaga]

I used the small RS slide switches, and as others have noted, they don't particularly like to stay in position.  I use solid point/closure rails, and on a few turnouts the spring in the rails, code 40 no less, is too much for the switch to hold properly.  I could use a smaller wire to connect the two, but then the wire bends and the points don't move.  I've replaced several switches, and have a few other, on rarely used tracks, where I adjusted them to stay in the "normal" position.  To use the other track the brakeman has to hold the switch, usually with the uncoupling pick.