Help with BLI T1 Duplex

[Dave V]

Heh, I have a LifeLike FA/B1 set that good ol' @wm3798 put DCC in back when dinosaurs roamed the Earth and boy do they pull!

My BLI collection includes 3 M1s, a T1, a P5a, an NW2, an F7A with 2 B units (one powered, one dummy), and an E7A with dummy B.

And I have the 2-8-0 on pre-order along with an A-B-A set of Sharknoses with the 5 stripes.

All with factory DCC/sound. I've done tricky hardwire DCC and sound installs in HOn3, but if I can avoid doing 'em in N, it's a good day.

I have three of their Pennsy H32s and 3 P70 coaches, along with a pre-order for the Pennsy passenger 5-pack (the PB70, 3 P70s, and the Z74D)

When that 2-8-0 (that has the chassis, pilot, and cab of a PRR H10) is turned into a real H10, I'm in for that too. And if ever a proper PRR I1sa comes along, it'll do so in a BLI box. It will almost certainly be announced after I finish my I1 Minitrix bash.

I guess I'm all-in on BLI. Is it Perfect? Nope. Is it Kato? ...not quite. Is it almost the only game in town for a Pennsy modeler? Bingo!

@dougnelson , did you try the Original Whistle Stop?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I was really hoping that someone has a cottage industry installing decoders.  Ed- I watched the video but I believe he was converting a BLI Paragon 4 to  his decoder brand, is that correct?  Am I correct that the Paragon 4 and Stealth locos use a standard harness connector that makes swapping/installation easier?  I thought that the issue is that Paragon 3 uses a different harness connector (or no plug connector?) that makes conversion more difficult. This is definitely not my area of expertise.

You are incorrect. He was removing the hardwired decoder and replacing it with the SoundTraxx one. The important part, however, was the replacement with the Next18 plug. Those things are great because you can use any decoder you like with them.

I did the very thing he did with mine but it got an ESU decoder.

It's actually remarkably easy: figure out which wires represent the different things then match them to the wires from the plug.
Left Rail, Right Rail, Motor +, Motor -, Headlight+, Headlight -, Speaker +, Speaker -.
Strip and solder them together then snap in the decoder itself.

The DCC industry has a color code for them but I don't think BLI follows it. There might be a video or resource out there that has you covered though.

[Lemosteam]

So I should release my proper PRR K7 kit?

[Dave V]

So I should release my proper PRR K7 kit?

Indeed! Right after the R50B… 

[dougnelson]

UPDATE:  Trainservicedepot.com is the third party after-warranty service provider recommended by BLI.  They told me that the Paragon 3 T1 has a decoder plug that is the same as the Paragon 4, so swapping in a Paragon 4 decoder is very simple.  No wiring needed.  And they only charge $130 for the swap including shipping.  Seems reasonable.  I will not be upgrading to Soundtraxx or similar, but I think that the BLI Paragon 4 is at least pretty reliable also includes a capacitor for stay-alive.

All of my BLI diesels - E7s, F3s, and PA have all performed well, as has the M1a.  I'm looking forward to the Baldwin Sharks that should be arriving soon.  I know BLI gets a bad rap sometimes, but they seem to be making progress and improvements.  And the Stealth locos are a good option for anyone wanting to install another brand decoder.

[Jimbo]

UPDATE:  Trainservicedepot.com is the third party after-warranty service provider recommended by BLI.  They told me that the Paragon 3 T1 has a decoder plug that is the same as the Paragon 4, so swapping in a Paragon 4 decoder is very simple.  No wiring needed.  And they only charge $130 for the swap including shipping.  Seems reasonable.  I will not be upgrading to Soundtraxx or similar, but I think that the BLI Paragon 4 is at least pretty reliable also includes a capacitor for stay-alive.

All of my BLI diesels - E7s, F3s, and PA have all performed well, as has the M1a.  I'm looking forward to the Baldwin Sharks that should be arriving soon.  I know BLI gets a bad rap sometimes, but they seem to be making progress and improvements.  And the Stealth locos are a good option for anyone wanting to install another brand decoder.

See reply #7.

I guess it got lost in all the noise.

Jim

[daniel_leavitt2000]

You are incorrect. He was removing the hardwired decoder and replacing it with the SoundTraxx one. The important part, however, was the replacement with the Next18 plug. Those things are great because you can use any decoder you like with them.

I did the very thing he did with mine but it got an ESU decoder.

It's actually remarkably easy: figure out which wires represent the different things then match them to the wires from the plug.
Left Rail, Right Rail, Motor +, Motor -, Headlight+, Headlight -, Speaker +, Speaker -.
Strip and solder them together then snap in the decoder itself.

The DCC industry has a color code for them but I don't think BLI follows it. There might be a video or resource out there that has you covered though.

Ed, I thought that BLI used a negative ground up until the Paragon 4? That would mean you would need to rewire the entire engine. It is doable, but not what I would call easy.

[towl1996]

The PRR K7 has already been designed and was available for purchase through Shapeways just before they shut down. @Lemosteam, are you able to print the car with open slats? I think that would be a logical next release.

I know decals were produced for the K7 and the X23, if they're available, that I don't know. Personally, I hope John will be able to finish the X23 and variants project, it was so close to becoming reality.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ed, I thought that BLI used a negative ground up until the Paragon 4? That would mean you would need to rewire the entire engine. It is doable, but not what I would call easy.

Interesting! I was not aware of that particular quirk. I've only rebrained a P4 unit.