Help with BLI T1 Duplex

[dougnelson]

I have two BLI Paragon 3 PRR T1 duplexes that are not running.  Power is ok, lights and sound (weird sounds) working sort of, but no movement.  I have tried hard reset with decoder button, no luck.  BLI no longer supports Paragon 3.  Can anyone suggest someone that can install new decoders?  Thanks!

[Dave V]

They no longer support their own decoders? It's not like Paragon 3 was the late 20th century. That's crappy of them.

The Original Whistle Stop in Pasadena has done decoder work for me in brass...I'm sure a DCC-ready engine would be a simple swap for them.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Doug, you can do the install and it's easier than you think.

Give this a watch.

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While it's applicable to the switcher, the basic premise is the same.

Using the Next18 connector takes a lot of the risk out of it. You do all your soldering to IT, then just plug in your decoder of choice.

It's how I've done my Strasburg 89. Works great.

[peteski]

If Next18 connector is installed that opens up a possibility to use any brand decoder with a Next18 connector. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

If Next18 connector is installed that opens up a possibility to use any brand decoder with a Next18 connector. 

I think they only started doing that recently with the "Stealth" offerings.

[peteski]

I think they only started doing that recently with the "Stealth" offerings.

That's correct. I misunderstood you. I thought that the modification you recommend provided a Nex18 connector after the Paragon3 decoder was removed (no I didn't watch the video).

[dem34]

I have two BLI Paragon 3 PRR T1 duplexes that are not running.  Power is ok, lights and sound (weird sounds) working sort of, but no movement.  I have tried hard reset with decoder button, no luck.  BLI no longer supports Paragon 3.  Can anyone suggest someone that can install new decoders?  Thanks!

As I understand working for a repair shop, they don't have the parts for the 3s anymore and are fairly open to use that they are hand grenades. I would ask them again over the phone, they sometimes offer discounts if you exchange a 3 and order a 4. Otherwise atleast with N scale a conversion to ESU or Soundtraxx is fairly straightforward as the N scale stuff doesn't have Serial connections, Smoke units, and wheel sensors that make the HO conversions a pain in the dick.

[Jimbo]

Apparently, BLI recommends this place for repairs/upgrades.  Their site offers upgrades from Paragon 2/3 to Paragon 4.

This assumes that you’re OK with Paragon 4 (which gets MUCH higher marks than Paragon 3.)

https://trainservicedepot.com/blilanding.html

Jim

[dougnelson]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I was really hoping that someone has a cottage industry installing decoders.  Ed- I watched the video but I believe he was converting a BLI Paragon 4 to  his decoder brand, is that correct?  Am I correct that the Paragon 4 and Stealth locos use a standard harness connector that makes swapping/installation easier?  I thought that the issue is that Paragon 3 uses a different harness connector (or no plug connector?) that makes conversion more difficult. This is definitely not my area of expertise.

[dem34]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I was really hoping that someone has a cottage industry installing decoders.  Ed- I watched the video but I believe he was converting a BLI Paragon 4 to  his decoder brand, is that correct?  Am I correct that the Paragon 4 and Stealth locos use a standard harness connector that makes swapping/installation easier?  I thought that the issue is that Paragon 3 uses a different harness connector (or no plug connector?) that makes conversion more difficult. This is definitely not my area of expertise.

The issue in N is more that BLI likes to connect everything with 1mm JST connectors and then doesn't color code their wiring. So the process of conversions isn't particularly difficult but it is time consuming. Which is why shops are going to be iffy about doing this kind of work because it can get expensive time wise. Nice thing about N though is that you don't need to worry about smoke and as such, no weird Serial protocol over the tether.

[wm3798]

I admire you guys that go head first in with all this tech stuff.  I really like operating with DCC, and so far, the old Digitrax and ... heh... I can't even remember the other manufacturer I did so many of it's been so long...  Anyway, on those rare occasions I run my chipped equipment, they continue to fire up and operate, more or less, as intended.  But there's no sound, no tricky lighting...  Bottom line, the more advanced the tech, the more fragile it is, in my opinion.

BLI's models are certainly beautiful, but this is the second thread I've read today about a quality control problem, or a lack of manufacturer support.   

I'm content over here running my old bricks.  There will never be a shortage of parts, or a micro chip I can't figure out.



I hope you're able to resolve the issue.
Lee

[Dave V]

In fairness, the electronics in my BLI F7 work great, and like Doug I have a Paragon3 T1...although so far mine has not caused any troubles. I think it may be easy to develop a false impression regarding BLI's performance based on these two threads. I mean, I don't know that they're exactly Kato in terms of consistency, but my opinion is certainly favorable. And as a Pennsy guy, they're essentially my sugar daddy.

I appreciate that BLI is also the only manufacturer in N that will do Pennsy diesels with the Trainphone antennas already installed and--in some cases--the big lift rings on the EMD noses Pennsy was famous for. I do have a stash of old Gold Metal Models Trainphone antennas, but I'm still grateful BLI goes to the extra mile when doing Pennsy locomotives.

All that said, my three chief BLI complaints:

1) The default volume on all their locomotives is far too loud. I get it...they're doing it because they can. But damn, it's loud even in a show environment. Master volume CV adjustment is a must. They do sound like HO or larger, I'll give them that.

2) The lighting in their P70 coaches--which in the N scale version is not controllable by the modeler--can be seen from low Earth orbit. Waaaaay too bright, like your local Top Golf at night.

3) Their Pennsy stock car--a needed piece to fill a gap--ended up being a solid block with a moo can inside. I would so much have preferred they ditch the schtick of animal sounds and made a proper see-through stock car.

[peteski]

not[/i] controllable by the modeler--can be seen from low Earth orbit. Waaaaay too bright, like your local Top Golf at night.

Getting those lights dimmer is one of the projects which will eventually happen (I started it when these cars were first released several years ago).  The car is sitting in its own little box along with dozen or more of other partially completed projects.   

[Dave V]

Getting those lights dimmer is one of the projects which will eventually happen (I started it when these cars were first released several years ago).  The car is sitting in its own little box along with dozen or more of other partially completed projects.   

I have three now with that 5-pack on the way...

[randgust]

The very first BLI unit I 'test drove' on my layout was a PA1, what a ....... 
All due to poor contact.  Looked great though.

Then saw the Centipedes at Altoona on our Ttrak layout that stalled due to lack of contact.....

Then saw the M1's with sound.... holy smokes, that certainly was impressive, and they ran well.   Note to self.

After a long and painful wait for prices to come down, bought FOUR RSD15's, converted to pure DC, added weight, and transplanted the Paragon 4 decoders to units that would be running on Ttrak setups, including full sound into LIFE-LIKE PA's.   Worked great!

And without those decoders and with more weight, I have to say the RSD15's are a great locomotive and MU flawlessly on DC.    My main ATSF layout is solidly DC, and with every train having at least two units, heavy grades, and in no mood for speed matching and consisting let alone fitting in pre-DCC era mechanisms, will stay that way.   

The Paragon 4 decoders in the RSD's are 'sorta' color coded, not that it made sense, but you could figure it out and other than changing the address and setting up consisting, have been acceptable for a guy that is only marginally skilled in DCC now.  I have to admit I get a charge out of people looking at my Life-Likes running on Ttrak and assuming BLI when there were bargain-basement used units with plastic frames and with transplanted decoders.   They pull like bricks, sound great, and never, ever stall. It affirms my reputation if nothing else.

If I'm reading this right, older decoders aren't color coded, but geez, you still should be able to figure out the basics on what came from where.   I analyzed mine carefully before I started removing stuff, and I cut wires, not pulled them out of sockets, to make sure I knew what went where.