Conrail's OCS - Full Train Thread

[OldEastRR]

I don't think I'm going to give it another try... I think the danger of serious damage is just to great.

One thing I noticed with this green... It REALLY needs to be glossy, otherwise it looks like that olive drab model power used in their military trains. This may be the first engine I use a gloss coat on.

Part of the problem here may be you're not getting enough paint on the shell. Your close-ups show the flat surfaces have a faint irregularity -- a micro-version of orange peel, possibly. Not enough paint got on the surface to self-level. I used to do that a lot until I learned to spray only enough to flow evenly over the surface. Not flowing as pouring off, but self-leveling and not make sags or thick spots that hide detail. A tricky thing to master, but your models' paint jobs will look factory made. Luckily for us in N surface tension helps keep the paint at a fairly even thickness all over.
And warm ... you really got to paint in warm temps, above 70 F. at least. Make sure model and paint are both at that temp.

[peteski]

I don't think I'm going to give it another try... I think the danger of serious damage is just to great.

One thing I noticed with this green... It REALLY needs to be glossy, otherwise it looks like that olive drab model power used in their military trains. This may be the first engine I use a gloss coat on.

So Daniel,  in this example you want a glossy finish, while you still prefer duller surface on model automobiles you mentioned in another thread.  Not trying to troll - just wondering why?  In 1:1 scale most over-the-road vehicles (passenger and commercial) have glossier finish than even the glossiest locomotives.

Achieving smooth glossy finish takes some practice and it also requires a very smooth base.  I also build plastic automobile models (in larger scales) so I am experienced in achieving glossy paint finish.


RtFront_zps92107242.jpg

You need to spray wet coat of paint. Most modelers, when airbrushing, spray their paints on too dry (the airbrush is too far away from the model, there is too much air pressure and too little paint coming out of the airbrush). 

[coosvalley]

I also prefer to use CA for filling. I always prime the spot lightly before deciding if I'm done sanding. Another trick I've learned is that you can use brushed-on primer to fill in smaller stuff like the porthole seams/outlines. This works well at the nearly complete stage of filling. If the model was still in primer,and I could see what you see in the reflected shot, I would use a small brush and trace the porthole seams in primer, let dry, and sand again, repeating as needed.....It takes forever, but you can get pretty close to seamless. Primers have fillers in them, and sand well unlike paints...With a gloss finish things like this are often more noticeable, I would say a flat finish would help it disappear...But I also remember you said this train was usually pretty clean.

As was said before, if you're not happy now, you'd probably be better off accepting that and fixing it...Bummer, I know!...Been there a few times myself...

Either way, I'm really digging watching this come together!

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Yes, this project is still moving forward. I just got an email today. My car sides for cars 1, 3, 8 and 9 are being prepared by Pro Custom Hobbies. He needs to know how long the car sides should be to fit the Micro Trains heavyweights. Anyone know how long the sides of the coach and observation are?

[daniel_leavitt2000]

PCH sent me the car sides about a month ago and I have been working on the cars off and on. I ordered cars 1, 3,  8 and 9. Cars 1 and 3 are using MTL Heavyweight business/observation cores while # 8 uses a MTL Heavyweight coach core. Theater car 9 uses an American Limited core.

Other cars being worked on include a de-skirted CC Budd coach and a Bachmann Superdome.


Top to bottom: #9, 55, 1, 27, 8, 3


Theater car 9 is by far the most involved build. The sides are .015" laser cut acrylic. I am using brass strip to keep them from warping. All cars will be using FVM or Rapido lighting kits, so I needed to make the roof removable. The glass wall on the end makes keeping the roof in place a bit more difficult.

The Superdome is only getting minor updates. The trucks will be replaced with 6 wheel trucks from the Kato El Captain. Business cars 1 and 3 will also be using these trucks.


Sleeper 8 was the only sides that actually matched the car length exactly. I replaced the roof with a cut down balloon roof. The original roof was re-purposed to business car 3. Both business cars were chopped and modified to fit the length of the new sides. I have no idea if the length is prototypical. One can only hope.

[bbussey]

If you're using the Bachmann Superdome model for CR 55 instead of the M&R Superdome etched wrapper, you should keep the trucks and just swap in FVM wheelsets. The trucks are the most accurate component of the Bachmann model.

[orionfield]

Really enjoying this thread. Been wanting to make HEP equipped E units for a Chicago Commuter project of mine, not I have some better ideas on how to do it!

[John]

lets see the other side of #8 if you get a chance

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The Budd 56 seat coach is moving forward. Incorrect windows were plugged with .03" styrene and new windows cut to size.

Bedroom view of the sleeper. It looks like a simple 8 compartment car. Nothing too fancy and should be an easy interior to build with styrene. I would love to have a sketch of the interior walls to resize and print out to give the model some pop when lit, but I have not found any (specific to this car or generic sleepers).


Reverse side of the Budd coach. Photos of the prototype indicated that the steps were fixed permanently down, so I cut this area out...


Where one of the spare steps cut from the MTL heavyweights will sit.


First experiments with the Rapido lighting kit. I was very surprised they fit in the lower deck of the Superdome without blocking the windows. Still trying to figure out how to light the dome. I have some ideas, but want to experiment before posting anything.

Today's shipment included the Rapido lighting kit, and two versions of their trucks.

Tomorrow I should receive:
Brass strips to complete Theater Car 9 sides.
Brass bars to weight and strengthen car floors.
Additional Rapido and FVM lighting kits.
Several packages of MTL heavyweight interiors.
Kato 6 wheel passenger trucks for instalation on the superdome and business cars.
Con-Cor Parlor car to be converted into Instruction/Buffet car.

I still have to figure out a few things:
1. How to make the mufflers on the E8s
2. How to tint the green glass on the Superdome
3. How to tint the brown glass on the Theater Car
4. How to re-skin the roof of the Parlor car (CC smooth side roof? Bondo? thick adhesive foil?)
5. Lighting for the Superdome and flood/class lights on the Theater car.

[jmlaboda - RIP]

It looks like a simple 8 compartment car.

8 Master Bedrooms, each with shower.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Theater car 9 is now assembled and awaiting detailing. The open end presents a challenge. I added brass shims to keep the body true. Roof will be removable for lighting.









All that brass makes this car HEAVY. But that just means it will track well. I prefer my passenger cars heavy, especially when powered by two Broadway E8s with traction tires.  Other cars will be weighed similarly.

The interior will slide in from the window end.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I was thinking about window tinting on the theater section. It is brown, and I think overexposed, processed film might be a good match. Anyone have any blank negatives?

[bbussey]

Your CR 9 looks good.  I would look at Roscolux photo gels.  That's what I did on my CR 55.  Use that behind whatever material you are using to represent the glass window.  Then you can find the proper tint/hue you are seeking.

Can can see all available colors at http://us.rosco.com/en/products/catalog/roscolux and can purchase at any supplier/dealer of photographic equipment.

[cjm413]

A few parts for CR 4022:

http://kvmodels.com/emd-general-locomotive-details-n/

[theboringtheadoring]

Hello,

Just wondering how these cars turned out! I don't model N scale, but I see my name mentioned a couple of times in the thread, so I thought I would say hi.  I'd love to see how the cars turned out as they look really great!

I do have a new site that will be helpful to modelers.

Here are some pages you might like to start with:

Conrail business train operations:
https://www.the-boring-the-adoring.com/conrail-office-car-special

An all around look at Conrail 1, the heavyweight observation car:
https://www.the-boring-the-adoring.com/conrail-blog/conrail-office-car-1-800221

And my HO scale model of Conrail:
https://www.the-boring-the-adoring.com/conrail-blog/conrail-ocs-1-ho-model

I kindly ask that everyone link to my pages instead of copying and placing them on other sites. I'm also happy to answer questions about my models or the train.

Best,
Wes R
https://www.the-boring-the-adoring.com