Conrail's OCS - Full Train Thread

[peteski]

Probably too late for Daniel, unless he was to start over, but didn't Puddy have a technique where he applied Scotch Tape over the window on the outside, poured epoxy in the window from the inside, and let it set up?  Peel off the tape once dry, and, "Voila!"  Little to no further prep work to disguise the window opening.

DFF

While it is a good method, there will still be a ghost outline of the window. At least that is my experience. One of the reasons is that epoxy and the shell are made of dissimilar materials. The only way to make it totally disappear would be through multiple priming and sanding application (so the painted surface is all the same material (primer).  But that is not really feasible on something like a body panel on an N scale loco. Unless maybe the priming could be isolated to that panel (by masking around it, then spraying primer). Otherwise the multiple layers of primer will obfuscate the delicate rivet details on the body.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Yeah, I'm not about to take putty and sand to the model for a SIXTH time. I used a combination of Squadron Green and Milliput White. It's only noticeable web reflecting light... But I notice it. On the plus side, the green came out well, though I think just a hint more brown would have been ideal. It's still a very close match to the Rapido car under almost all lighting conditions.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

It's still a very close match to the Rapido car under almost all lighting conditions.

That may be the best news of all. Even if something's a bit off, it's better to be consistently a bit off!

[Sokramiketes]

As you've found, there is no way to use putty and get a flush surface.  You end up sanding a depressed area.

I gave up on that technique and now cut the porthole out entirely, squaring off the opening, and cutting a new square filler of styrene to fit.  Even if you don't glue the styrene in at exactly the right surface height, it looks like a flat square panel and not the ghost of a porthole.

Its easier than it sounds, and much quicker in the end.

[peteski]

As you've found, there is no way to use putty and get a flush surface.  You end up sanding a depressed area.

I gave up on that technique and now cut the porthole out entirely, squaring off the opening, and cutting a new square filler of styrene to fit.  Even if you don't glue the styrene in at exactly the right surface height, it looks like a flat square panel and not the ghost of a porthole.

Its easier than it sounds, and much quicker in the end.

Yeah, if the material used to fill the opening is same as the shell material (styrene) then it will bend in much better. But as you said, the ghost line around the  joint between the panel and the shell will still be noticeable.

[u18b]

As you've found, there is no way to use putty and get a flush surface.  You end up sanding a depressed area.

I gave up on that technique and now cut the porthole out entirely, squaring off the opening, and cutting a new square filler of styrene to fit.  Even if you don't glue the styrene in at exactly the right surface height, it looks like a flat square panel and not the ghost of a porthole.

Its easier than it sounds, and much quicker in the end.

I learned what Mike said a long time ago.

I found putty is only good for micro filling- not large filling.
That's because of the shrinkage.  And squadron green while  good for filling tiny cracks shrinks horribly in larger thicknesses. (I don't use it any more).

In fact, sorry to say...... but if you think it looks bad to your taste now, it will look even worse in about six months or so.

Filling in the gap with styrene and getting it close is the best way.   Then, after sanding, use putty for the last and thinnest covering.

Then I would let it dry for several days (not hours).

Lastly, Sand (lightly) again.

Then repeat if you still have a dip.

At least this has worked for me.


And thanks for this thread.  I love your models.
Hope to make them one day so I'm bookmarking this thread!

[peteski]

I learned what Mike said a long time ago.

I found putty is only good for micro filling- not large filling.
That's because of the shrinkage.  And squadron green while  good for filling tiny cracks shrinks horribly in larger thicknesses. (I don't use it any more).

Shrinkage is just part of the problem. Even when using non-shrinking 2-part putties, the ghosting will still be there. I is because the putties have a different hardness and texture than the surrounding styrene.

I avoid putties whenever possible. If filling is required I use CA glue and accelerator (never baking soda).  For larger voids I glue in styrene fill and use CA glue as adhesive. I also sand CA glue within few hours of setting (because after a day or two it sets harder than styrene which creates a problem too).

[wazzou]

I've really got to disagree on the "no putty" thing.
I mean, of course I'm going to fill as much of the void as possible with styrene but I have really had terrific luck with Bondo spot putty.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Previously, I had his luck with using Milliput for larger openings and then Squadron Green to finish. It just didn't work this time. I think one reason was that the Milliput I used was rather old. It seemed to dry harder - ceramic like than newer putty. This caused all sorts of problems trying to sand it down around the much softer plastic. Squadron green had the opposite problem. Often when smoothing the area with wet sandpaper and sanding sticks, it would rub right though the layer of green in no time. This is just incredibly frustrating. I wanted this to be a premier train, not some cobbled together pile of crap.

[John]

I've had some luck with the Mr Surfacer products .. but not consistently

[Philip H]

So the lazy contrarian in me says if the only way to really see the issue is to lay the lock on its side and shine S bright light on it, how much of a problem is this really? After all you are not modeling a line known for laying locos over.

[wazzou]

I've had some luck with the Mr Surfacer products .. but not consistently

I should have added that I do use Mr Surfacer as well and love the product.
I use the 500, the thickest, 1000 and 1200 which is thinnest I have.

[u18b]

So the lazy contrarian in me says if the only way to really see the issue is to lay the lock on its side and shine S bright light on it, how much of a problem is this really? After all you are not modeling a line known for laying locos over.

I was thinking the same thing.   Plus it is a dark paint scheme.

I wouldn't worry too much.
It's your call.

[peteski]

I've really got to disagree on the "no putty" thing.
I mean, of course I'm going to fill as much of the void as possible with styrene but I have really had terrific luck with Bondo spot putty.

I use fillers (as little as possible) but as I mentioned I use ones which are of similar hardness to the surrounding material. Putties are usually softer than styrene.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I don't think I'm going to give it another try... I think the danger of serious damage is just to great.

One thing I noticed with this green... It REALLY needs to be glossy, otherwise it looks like that olive drab model power used in their military trains. This may be the first engine I use a gloss coat on.