Suggest your favorite low temperature solder

[Cajonpassfan]

Well, leave it to Bob to write up a detailed, well thought out and organized assessment, exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to do this Bob! Truly appreciated.
I'm not yet ready to spend the money as I have other priorities staring with getting the layout to a fully operable state, but if I do choose to go forward, I will likely follow your advice.
Meanwhile, anyone who actually has the MM unit, please let us know your thoughts on its usefulness and limitations.
Otto K.

[mmagliaro]

Max,  I have the AB 250W unit and yes, there isn't much inside. But it is more than just a transformer.  First of all, the transformer is custom made to provide over 80 Amps of current at 3V max.  Then there is an autotransformer. That allows to control of the power (by reducing the input voltage to the power transformer.  Remember this post?  You participated in that discussion.  The unit might be pricey, but you are paying for more than just the sum of parts. It is very well made and lots of accessories are available.

Getting back to this...
Peteski... are you able to read the label on that variac, so see what wattage capacity it is?
My instinct tells me that on a 250W unit, it shouldn't need to be more than a 250W variac, so perhaps 2 to 3 amps maximum current.
Am I in the ballpark?

You are right, the variac is not to be ignored.  They are expensive - well over 100 bucks for a new one.

[peteski]

Getting back to this...
Peteski... are you able to read the label on that variac, so see what wattage capacity it is?
My instinct tells me that on a 250W unit, it shouldn't need to be more than a 250W variac, so perhaps 2 to 3 amps maximum current.
Am I in the ballpark?

You are right, the variac is not to be ignored.  They are expensive - well over 100 bucks for a new one.

I agree with your assumption, but I would have to take the unit apart again to see if I can read the label. I'll do it, but only if you really need that info. 

EDIT: I went to the post I linked to earlier in that previous message and there I provided the model number of the variac:  Staco Energy Products Type 171 KW.
That should give you all the info you need.

[mmagliaro]

Thanks Peteski.  That's a big help!  No need to crack it open again.
That is a 1.75A variac.

A new one from Mouser costs $135.  So between that and the power transformer, one would have to spend over $200 just to get the main parts.  Then there's the case, heavy-duty lugs and terminals, power switch, and a decent tweezer or probe hand piece.  Yeah.  I agree.  $400 isn't looking so ridiculous now for an industrially-made one, that is UL listed and is all ready to go.

[Sokramiketes]

I bought the 100 W American Beauty unit years back for doing N scale track work. At the time I had no plans to assemble an S scale brass RS-1, but life takes you in strange directions sometimes.

The 100W handled even the large brass end castings given enough spins of the electric meter. And the heat still didn't spread enough to pop off the separate louvers on the hood. It stayed localized enough.

So 100W is probably plenty for a lot of people here.

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Shout out for Supersafe Flux as well. I love the stuff.

[narrowminded]

For mmagliaro:

Max, I understand fully your concern about the expenditure and for a tool you're pretty sure about but not really sure if it's worth it.  So it just occurred to me, duh.  Why don't you borrow my unit for a week or so, play with it and see what you can see.  It will show the basic ability of the method and also can be put to the test on wattage as mine is the 100 watt unit.  If you'd like to try it send a PM and we'll work it out.  I'll cover shipping one way, you cover it back.  I'd be quite happy to do this and would only ask that before to return it, sign and date it. Make it a collector's item!

[jdcolombo]

While only tangentially related to this topic, I was reminded yesterday about the fact that having the right tool for the job really makes things a whole lot easier - or in some cases, possible.  Yesterday, I put in a new pop-up vent and cooktop in our kitchen.  The vent had to be connected to our existing venting.  I thought I had bought enough elbows, transitions, etc. to do the job - maybe not easily, but get it done.  But of course everything went wrong - the existing vent work turned out to be 5" pipe, not the 6" I was expecting.  The blower exit was a couple of inches off where I had calculated it would be, and so on.  My father in law, however, is a now-retired handyman who seems to have a tool for everything.  He brought over a pop-rivet tool, tin shears, a tin ribbing tool, etc.  A job that started as darn near impossible became possible (and eventually even finished!) because of these tools.

For years, I "milled" frames for my sound installations using a Dremel with various cutters and cut-off wheels.  I still have all my fingers, which is probably a miracle, and the "milling" more or less worked.  Finally, I decided to invest in a small milling machine.  I don't use it every day - maybe once a week at best.  But it does jobs that used to take me hours in minutes; more precisely, and more safely.  In my opinion, it is worth every penny I spent on it.

When you need a table saw, a jig saw won't work.  When you need a milling machine, a Dremel is a poor substitute.  Metallic tape doesn't substitute for pop-riveted tin.  I should have learned long ago not to resist investing in the right tool for the job.  I won't say "never again," but I HAVE come to appreciate the fact that investing in such tools is never a waste of money.

John C.

[peteski]

I won't say "never again," but I HAVE come to appreciate the fact that investing in such tools is never a waste of money.

John C.

AMEN!   

[robert3985]

... I won't say "never again," but I HAVE come to appreciate the fact that investing in such tools is never a waste of money.

John C.

AMEN!! +2

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[mmagliaro]

narrowminded:  I very much appreciate the offer, but I will pass as I don't feel comfortable borrowing things like that, especially through the mail.  But truly, that is a kind and generous offer, and thank you!

The day will come gents, when I just plunk down and buy one.  It's pretty clear that a 100W unit will do the job, and it is also clear that the cost-effectiveness of the American Beauty unit is actually quite good, taking in to consideration the cost of the parts and the quality of that device, which has been attested to enough times that I can be certain of it.

As it turns out, for the joint I was considering, it will actually be better to use pins and epoxy which will allow me a lot more flexibility in getting things aligned just the way I want them, and I am not worried about the strength of the joint now that I know how I'm going to reenforce it.