Author Topic: Basic Question about Assembling Structures  (Read 2365 times)

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peteski

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Re: Basic Question about Assembling Structures
« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2015, 12:52:17 AM »
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Too bad that more laser kit manufacturers do not use micro-plywood instead of plain basswood - it is less prone to warping ans stiffer.
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Flagler

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Re: Basic Question about Assembling Structures
« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2015, 10:09:17 AM »
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I think I airbrushed both sides of the sheets prior to cutting the parts out.I might have airbrushed after I glued the parts together on each side.I just can not remember for sure.I think The instructions provided a recommendation and I am sure that I followed it because it was my first and my last  wood kit.I really like the look of the wood kit and plan to build more.




Flagler

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Re: Basic Question about Assembling Structures
« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2015, 10:13:20 AM »
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Developing the scene






Noah Lane

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Re: Basic Question about Assembling Structures
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2015, 11:58:33 AM »
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@peteski - wow. that was a great tutorial on the chemistry of paint! Thanks for dropping that knowledge on us!

@Santa Fe Guy - thanks for the advice.

@wazzou - Your iteration of the MTL Cannery is head and shoulders above the others I have seen! How did you do the shingle siding?  I'm sure I'll have some questions for you once I dive into that kit.

When it comes to bracing, are saying it makes sense [on broader panels] to glue the stripwood bracing first -prior to painting or assembly?

@Flagler - great looking work!

wazzou

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Re: Basic Question about Assembling Structures
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2015, 12:47:01 PM »
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Thank you Noah. 
I lay the all the walls face down after mapping out, planning and executing any modifications to the original walls (generally changes in door or window location or size).
I picked up a baggie (probably a couple of hundred pieces or more) of some type of basswood square sticks at a JoAnn's Fabric (Like a Michael's) store that are probably each 3" long and measure out to a scale 12x12.   Prior to getting these, I used the more expensive strips from Kappler or Northeastern.
I cut, fit and glue these to the inside walls, both horizontally and vertically, avoiding window, door or slot openings.  It doesn't need to be done with any precision just make sure you test fit walls together to make certain you don't glue a brace somewhere that inhibits construction. 
I try to plan ahead and use some near the edges of adjoining walls and roof edges to allow for a larger gluing surface.  The goal is simply to make a sturdy wall that won't curl or bow.
I tend to use a lot of craft acrylic paints on laser structures and these paints combined with the water needed to thin them can cause these issues if precautions aren't taken.
The shingles I used in this case were produced by Rusty Stumps.  https://www.rustystumps.com/products.asp?cat=49
Let me know if you have other questions and good luck.
Bryan

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