Mounting Masonite (or similar hardboard) for a backdrop

[Sumner]

....
2. to get it to hold a curve, it needs to be wetted with something - something with ammonia might help - and dried over a form....

Works great....

https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP%20Canyon%20Division/page-145.html

Tapeing the seams and covering the screw heads....



More here...

https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP%20Canyon%20Division/page-146.html

Sumner

[nickelplate759]

for joints not on the 1x3, cut a piece of 1x3 the height of the masonite, and join it that way

That's what I did on the last layout.  On this one I'm trying to avoid the 1x1 entirely.

[nickelplate759]

Works great....
...

Tapeing the seams and covering the screw heads....

...

More here...

...

Sumner

Dunno why I didn't think of this on my own, but looking at @Sumner 's post I realize now that I don't need a form at all.  I can wet the appropriate part of the Masonite and once it's pliable just attach it to the wall - the wall will be the form.   Doh!

[MVW]

I could maybe add drywall anchors in between (God, I hate those things...) but I'm not keen on the idea.

Two words: Wall Dogs. They're amazing.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hillman-Wall-Dog-1-1-2-in-Hi-Lo-Steel-Pan-Head-Phillips-Anchors-75-Pack-376242/202243035

[garethashenden]

Dunno why I didn't think of this on my own, but looking at @Sumner 's post I realize now that I don't need a form at all.  I can wet the appropriate part of the Masonite and once it's pliable just attach it to the wall - the wall will be the form.   Doh!

That's what I was trying to suggest. Glad you got there!

Sometimes it feels like you need three or seven hands at once, but it is possible with two. I don't have any scientific evidence for this, but my feeling is you should wet the hardboard if you're approaching an 18" radius. Anything above that should bend just fine dry.

[LKOrailroad]

1/8" (3mm) hardboard will bend to 12" radius with no wetting if you form it gently and evenly. After being in place for a while it will take a set.

[randgust]

I used masonite on my 'big' layout, and had to design in joints on the table gaps so I could ever get the layout apart (it's been moved three times).

I REALLY spent some time engineering the thing, planned for expansion/contraction, I thought, but looking back.... today.... it still moves.  Humidity contracts it in the winter and swells it in the summer.  Despite everything.   The stuff wants to move, even when painted and 'sealed' with latex paint.  Its just a hairline crack, but annoying.   The only cure is photoshopping out the crack in pictures.   Fill it in and it's a ridge in the winter.  Can't win.

I even added steel strips at the joints, at the top and bottom edges, in addition to the screws into the pine lath.  I did the tricks on soaking it, bending it, letting it dry to shape, worked fine.   You'd think the curves would compensate for that.   None of my sections were over 60" long or 24" high.

So if you have serious humidity variation I'd seriously stay away from it.   I'd find some other material now myself if I was doing it over.

[LKOrailroad]

I used masonite on my 'big' layout, and had to design in joints on the table gaps so I could ever get the layout apart (it's been moved three times).

I REALLY spent some time engineering the thing, planned for expansion/contraction, I thought, but looking back.... today.... it still moves.  Humidity contracts it in the winter and swells it in the summer.  Despite everything.   The stuff wants to move, even when painted and 'sealed' with latex paint.  Its just a hairline crack, but annoying.   The only cure is photoshopping out the crack in pictures.   Fill it in and it's a ridge in the winter.  Can't win.

I even added steel strips at the joints, at the top and bottom edges, in addition to the screws into the pine lath.  I did the tricks on soaking it, bending it, letting it dry to shape, worked fine.   You'd think the curves would compensate for that.   None of my sections were over 60" long or 24" high.

So if you have serious humidity variation I'd seriously stay away from it.   I'd find some other material now myself if I was doing it over.

Granted there are no removable joints but building my backdrop as if I were riveting a steam boiler solved the humidity induced movement issue of hardboard. Been in place for over 10 years without issue. Michigan humidity swings form 30% to 90%. Under the mud there are twice as many screws at the joints - half the spacing of the screws in the field. Used up a ton of drywall screws.

[Scottl]

I wanted to avoid holes in my walls for the backdrop.  I used 1X3 risers attached to the back of the bench work.  The 24" high back drop was secured with 3 drywall screws on each riser, glued on joints as well.  Would be suitable for block walls too, and the wood has give to take the seasonal changes.

The entire layout is connected to the wall with 4 lag bolts and most of it is cantilevered.

[nickelplate759]

Well, it seems to have worked!    I put up the first section this afternoon.



1 5/8" drywall screws, carefully countersunk in the hardboard, screwed into studs*.    Genuine Windex used to soak the curved area - it does indeed make it more flexible.   

I suspect this can also work without the Windex soak ( I tried it in test fitting ), but it's a lot more difficult, especially when working alone.


* Those with sharp eyes may notice that there are four white spots (countersunk holes) under the window latch, with no screws.  Someone predrilled those holes in the wrong spot (missed the stud)!  Thank goodness for drywall mud!