Mounting Masonite (or similar hardboard) for a backdrop

[nickelplate759]

 I want to use a 1/8" Masonite-like product for my backdrop.  The basic approach is to fasten it to the wall, tape and mud the seams, cove the corners, and paint it.    I've done it a couple of times before with success, but I'm considering a slightly different approach to supporting it and would like some input.

The room has finished walls - drywall, nicely mudded and painted. In the past I fastened 1x3 horizontally to the wall (screwed into studs) at the top edge of the backdrop, and screwed the Masonite into that.   I used 1x3 as a backer for the splices between in the backdrop (Masonite only comes up to 8' long as far as I know), and also screwed the Masonite (#6 flat-head) into those splice backers.   This all worked well.

In my current room, I'm being a little greedy, and don't want to give up the 3/4" depth that the 1x3 took up.    Problem is, most of my studs are 24" OC., and I'm not at all confident that that's enough to adequately support the Masonite.    I could maybe add drywall anchors in between (God, I hate those things...) but I'm not keen on the idea.

Anyone have any experience to share, or bright ideas?   Maybe a thinner than 3/4" material to use in place of the 1/3?

[peteski]

Why not paint/glue the backdrop directly on the wall.  If you move, just repaint it normal color.

[nickelplate759]

'cause I want to cove the corners (about 12" radius looks nice).

[Stolen Moment]

Can't you "just" cove the corners and use the existing wall everywhere else?  Mud and smooth the edges.

[nickelplate759]

Can't you "just" cove the corners and use the existing wall everywhere else?  Mud and smooth the edges.

Maybe - but it doesn't solve anything.  I still have the problem about how to fasten the Masonite to the wall in order to cove it, and there aren't studs in the right places.  Dunno if you've ever tried bending Masonite to 12" radius, but it really doesn't want to state at that radius without some serious persuasion.

[peteski]

I thought there was a way to permanently shape Masonite (or similar type of a product).  I think you need to soak it with Windex (probably the ammonia) and it will soften to allow it to be shaped. Then let it dry and it will retain the new shape. I just have a vague recollection of this process, so I might be way off.

[nickelplate759]

Windex?   Is this My Big Fat Greek Layout?

[ednadolski]

Windex?   Is this My Big Fat Greek Layout?

Ok, Formula 409 then  (it worked for me).

Ed

[peteski]

Windex?   Is this My Big Fat Greek Layout?

You could just do the corners. Since Masonite will be permanently curved, you can just use Sheetrock anchors to attach it.  Even if it Masonite  heavy, there are heavy duty anchors available. Pre-curved so there is no stress.

I think it is ammonia that causes the softening.  Ammonia is very inexpensive. and can be purchased in gallon size containers. Might be worth finding more details on how to do to the permanent bending.

[garethashenden]

I think 24" centers will be fine. I'm using less that that at the top of the backscene. In fairness, the bottom is wedged in place by the foamboard, but it seemed stabled before I added it. Its supported much more closely to 48" centers than 24". Unless you're expecting the backscene to be subject to a lot of forces, I wouldn't worry that much.

[John]

I anchor painted 1x3 to my cinder block basement wall - it's not finished, but the same theory applies - Using 2-3 wood screws to mount the masonite on 24" centers .. holds curves rather well ..

[nickelplate759]

So far I'm getting the following understanding:

1. anchoring every 24" or so is enough when the hardboard is flat on the wall
2. to get it to hold a curve, it needs to be wetted with something - something with ammonia might help - and dried over a form.

Reading more widely on forming tempered hardboard, I also see suggestions for heat forming, but much as I'd love an excuse to get a heat gun, I probably won't.

So, I think I need to do an experiment - build a form and try wetting and curving the hardboard.  Doesn't have to be precise by any means.  If that works, then I should be good to go.

[garethashenden]

I'm sure you can use a form, but I didn't. For the backscene, facia, and valance I figured out where the curve was going to be and pushed it into place.

Lets say the curve is 2/3 of the way along an 8' piece. Start at the long end and attach it. Walk it along, pushing it into position, attaching it as you go. When you get to the curved area, take the loose end and push it towards the corner until you get a radius you want. Then attach it to the wall.

I did the backscene in 1/8" hardboard and didn't wet anything. The facia and valance are 3/16" and I used windex on some corners, maybe all, I'm not sure. Windex does cause it to drip a rather gross brown liquid, so only do it if you must. Its only needed for really tight curves.

[nickelplate759]

I'm sure you can use a form, but I didn't. For the backscene, facia, and valance I figured out where the curve was going to be and pushed it into place.

Lets say the curve is 2/3 of the way along an 8' piece. Start at the long end and attach it. Walk it along, pushing it into position, attaching it as you go. When you get to the curved area, take the loose end and push it towards the corner until you get a radius you want. Then attach it to the wall.

I did the backscene in 1/8" hardboard and didn't wet anything. The facia and valance are 3/16" and I used windex on some corners, maybe all, I'm not sure. Windex does cause it to drip a rather gross brown liquid, so only do it if you must. Its only needed for really tight curves.

Hmm...  Maybe I'm over-engineering things (it's what I do).   I do need to ensure that the the joints between hardboard sheets are right on top of studs.   In your scenario the first stud is simple, but the second one will be harder. 
Just thinking it through, the process might go something like this:

1. Find and mark the center of the studs.  No guessing - drill test holes to find the edges of the studs if need be.
2. Calculate the length needed and pre-cut the hardboard piece to that length.
3. Fasten the end farthest from the corner to its stud.
4. Push it into the corner, forcing it to curve, until it lines up at a stud on the other end.
5. Fasten in place on second stud.

I'm not sure I can comfortably hold it in place while I fasten it into the second stud; it's going to want to fight back.  I also need to support it until it's fastened so it will be level.  I need to figure out some way to hold it in place until all the screws are in.

In any event, I've got three corners to do.

[John]

for joints not on the 1x3, cut a piece of 1x3 the height of the masonite, and join it that way