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No pictures - but I spent the weekend repairing Atlas C55 switches .. My process takes about 30 minutes per turnout. Most of my switches go back to the initial production runs, with quite a few coming from Jerry Britton when he went back to HO. 1) I measure electrical continuity at various points, including closure rails, frog, etc, just to get a feel for the condition. 2) I remove one tie directly under the frog, directly over the spot where the power connector joins the frog. The connector clips into a little nub on the frog, that is the only electrical contact, and fails frequently. I also remove a tie forward of the frog on the fixed closure rails. I like to stay far enough back so that if I get sloppy on my soldering, I can clean it up. I also cut the webbing just forward of the closure rail connection point to make a small channel for wires (more later)3) Next, I clean up the frog and the rails on either side with a wire brush, ensuring there is no debris left. I usually remove the small connector nub on the frog with a file.. I use PC board ties, pre-cut the insulation gaps on top, and one gap on the underside. I paint on flux (the type that @robert3985 recommended ). I tin the frog and ties with Koester solder then place the tie directly over under the frog and heat to get more solder to flow. Most of the time, I get a good connection, but it depends on the frog metalurgy and how good the silver outside layer is. Also solder the PC board to the rails on both sides for strength. Finally, attach a wire to the underside at the frog for powering the frog.4) Solder a pre-gapped PC tie forward of the frog to the outside and fixed closure rails. 5) Solder flexible small striped wire (#28 or #32) to the small attachment nub on the movable closure rail, thread the wire out and solder to the side of the rail. If you use a small tip iron, you can get a pretty good connection without a blob.6) The alternative is to replace both closure rails with solid rail, and replace the throw bar with PC ties - but that requires filing the ends to a point, which is more difficult if you don't do it often, or have the point form tools from FastTracks. I have some curved switches that I was gifted by @davefoxx when he switched to HO. I replace the closure rails with solid rail.7) Spend a little time cleaning up the solder, and paint the rails. Doesn't look bad.
I'd really like to to see a few pictures of this process!
That might be some of the issues I have with my yard, but those turnouts are already down and ballasted
You can still fix them in-situ .. first, take a meter and measure continuity where you need to see it .. if the frog is dead, you can fix it a couple of ways .. solder a wire to the wing, or drill a very small hole into the center of the frog near the back and try to run the wire through it, then route to the wire to whatever device you are using to power the frog.In the image I attached, the yellow areas are where you should have continuity, and either solder wires to those or a pc board tie .. (Attachment Link)
I have found a quick and handy fix for the rail continuity problems: conductive paint. https://conrail1285.com/fix-your-atlas-code-55-turnouts-with-conductive-paint/It saves some soldering on already installed turnouts.
When I first heard you talk about this method, I was left wondering if the paint might break down over time. I'm assuming you continue to have success with the conductive paint. Pretty sweet that you found this little hack...
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Topic: Atlas C55 Switch Repairs (Read 531 times)
