Kato Unitrack VS Handlayed CD40

[tom mann]

Remember to use my 10,000 pixel wide 1 pixel tall image in your signature over there.

</kidding>

Nice subtle topic title change.

[Puddington]

I'm in the process of changing over 100 passenger cars from truck mounted MT's to body mounted......I am also considering a visit to the Betty Ford Clinic due to "fun" of modifying some older Riv and Atlas cars...........still; it's "the right thing to do".................

[Dave V]

A coupler mounting thread would be quite useful, but I don't want to derail (HA!) this thread...

Interesting how things really went up a notch over on the other board...  I think Lee's retort is spot-on.  I don't plan on handlaying code 40 any time soon (but possibly 55 if Atlas can't correct the problems with its curved turnouts), but I enjoy seeing and hearing from people who do.  I don't find someone showing off good modeling as an indictment of my own work, nor do I understand those who do.

When I first came to the Railwire from some of the mainstream boards I was shocked at how matter-of-fact guys were about my modeling.  However, in very short order I found how liberating that was.  Yeah, I could go over to MR's board and get two dozen attayboys with a single picture, but it wouldn't have mattered if I'd scratchbuilt a steam locomotive or glued kitty litter to unpainted snap-track.  The replies would have been the same.  Here, I don't think people have a) that pretense of always having to laud others no matter what they've done or b) the super thin skins that can't be told when the baby's ugly.

Accolades over here just seem to mean more because they are earned.

EDIT:  Pudd's right on too...  It ain't a contest unless you want it to be.

[Bob Bufkin]

Just read Lee's and Pudd's last replies over there and couldn't agree more.  I admit I use Kato Unitrack cause I had a bunch left over from other layouts.  Also use a variety of other code 80 for years, spurs, etc.  I'm happy with what I have.  Your handlaid track is beautiful to behold.

That being said, I do have one complaint to you.  "You really didn't need to add fuel to the fire changing the thread title".  Let the idiots have there day, why pile it on?

Bob

[Ryan87]

I must ask why say you're done with them and then keep going back for more?
Stay here we have cookies!  ;D

[chuck geiger]

Can we use sand-less grout like ground goop or a scenery
texture material. I have found a way to paint, sift sand, vacumn
it and then paint it again. Of course this works on flat areas and
doesn't do much for slopes.

[bbussey]

Oh, and I hear you on body-mounting...

I think everyone knows where I stand on this one. 

[davidmbedard]

I changed the title to reflect what my good-intentioned thread turned into.....a good example of what the A forums have turned into...I have no desire to waste my time over there anymore.

Anyways, thank you to everyone for their constructive criticism on my efforts. 

I agree that the ties are too wide.  Besides Fasttracks (supplied by Aspen models), does anyone know of another N scale wood tie supplier?

Pudd.....Ive got some roof corrections coming my way  ;D as well as a steamer named after a Mountain range....

David B

[Puddington]

......."mountain range" eh.............let's see, how does one spell Selkirk.....................?

[conrail98]

I agree that the ties are too wide.  Besides Fasttracks (supplied by Aspen models), does anyone know of another N scale wood tie supplier?

proto87.com has some. Don't know how they compare width wise to the ones from FastTrack,

Phil

[Mark5]

 Besides Fasttracks (supplied by Aspen models), does anyone know of another N scale wood tie supplier?

Back in the 70s I got my wood ties from RailCraft. Railcraft is now MicroEngineering, so I assume that ME sells them (both regular and turnout ties).

Mark

[davidmbedard]

Looks like the Mods finally locked my thread...good.  :

Oh Pudd, you are so clever. 

It is based on a ConCor 2-10-2 and will represent the T1a....why the T1a and not the B or C?  Because the T1a is a bigger challenger (all that piping).

The only part I cant find is the pilot truck.  I need one off a LL Berk.  I called Walthers and no go.

The Cab will be scratched out of styrene and the Tender is a toss-up between Etched brass (looking into that) and Styrene with rivets.

My era is the twilight of Canadian steam, so they are modeled in their pre-scrapped mode.

David B

[Puddington]

Looks like the Mods finally locked my thread...good.  :

Oh Pudd, you are so clever. 

It is based on a ConCor 2-10-2 and will represent the T1a....why the T1a and not the B or C?  Because the T1a is a bigger challenger (all that piping).

The only part I cant find is the pilot truck.  I need one off a LL Berk.  I called Walthers and no go.

The Cab will be scratched out of styrene and the Tender is a toss-up between Etched brass (looking into that) and Styrene with rivets.

My era is the twilight of Canadian steam, so they are modeled in their pre-scrapped mode.

David B

Could you use the Eric Canadian All weather cab ? Might be ok with a few modifications ? I'd think that you could use Archer rivets and styrene for a decent tender; I am awaiting my shipment of the little dots for a few passenger projects ( like a Glen class CPR sleeper)

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Can we use sand-less grout like ground goop or a scenery
texture material. I have found a way to paint, sift sand, vacumn
it and then paint it again. Of course this works on flat areas and
doesn't do much for slopes.

I don't think the unsanded stuff will work well for ballast, but it DOES look great in other applications (see the subroadbed in the pics of the ROW "study" piece: http://conrail1285.com/news.asp?storyid=73). It's really a fine powder.

[conrail98]

Here's what the guys around here use for ballast:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_43742-73069-1234-0402-2_0__?productId=1183385

They mix and match colors to get what they need. Here's the info from another board where this was first introduced:

The product is called "Spectra Lock Stain Resistant Grout Part C", packaged in paper milk style cartons, and was purchased at Lowes. For lack of a better description, it appears to be very finely sifted colored sand and is supposed to be mixed with a special binder for use as a grout, although I don't use it that way. So far I've purchased Midnight (black), Raven (dark gray), Mocha (light tan, almost a match for Polly Scale Aged Concrete), and Natural Gray (light gray).

Phil